Early new car oil change or not?

Alright... If you don't mind I'd love to hear you explain why
and how engines ran worse after early oil changes. Thanks.

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And how would we know why? One could guess.

Many wear in sumps contain 4x moly of typical ILSAC blends visible in V.O. analysis.
likely to prevent spalling and fretting in specific operation modes.
Do we know if there are added ester oils to?

How many manufacturers are recommending early oil change?

Only ones I know are small engine ODPE with scuppers, and splash lube and no filters.

I used to worry and obsess also, But it took over 70 cars to convince me otherwise.

Interesting side note: Chrysler used to install Sperm oil in their HP engines and recommend against early oil change-out without replenishing this wear-in accommodater.

spem oil.jpg

D70-10-1.jpg


dont dump that FF
 
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Those cars were only new once. Figure about an average of 1.5 gallons of oil each on a preliminary early change. 50 gallons in a barrel, so a barrel covers 33 cars; 276 million cars and some math gives us 8.4 million barrels of oil.

US oil consumption is about 18-20 million barrels of oil DAILY. https://www.ceicdata.com/en/indicator/united-states/oil-consumption

So, the 8.4 million barrels of oil figures we're talking about represent oil consumption from about breakfast until dinner on any 1 day.
That's crude. Not finished product.

Yes, try to rationalize waste - This is 'Merca! We is bone headed and Like it that way, Buddy
 
So you didn't provide any evidence for your claim "ran worse after early oil change".

We're talking about a German car here. Comparisons of other provenience engines'
first fillst to certain ILSAC oils won't help. Comparisons between MB/BMW/VW FFs
and VOAs (or UOAs in lack of VOAs) would be legit, and on these, I did not ever find
any differences in additive components worth speaking of. As a conclusion the first
fills of German engines seem to be identical of to those oil you can buy at the dealer.

To be clear, there does no downside exist for early changes, in particular on a BMW,
VW or Mercedes.
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Any particles suspended in the oil will be picked up by the filter, the rest are going to be stuck to the oil pan and valve covers so draining isn't going to get them out anyway.
 
I don't buy new cars, but my wife does.

This is just my take, but the first change is where I'm MOST particular about following the factory recommended change intervals.

Aside from the left over assembly lube others have mentioned, at least some engines will be filled at the factory with oil that's not a regular off-the-shelf product and has additives to assist break-in(even though I know modern engines are "tight" enough that they don't need a lot of break in).

I want that stuff in there for the time the manufacturer intends it to be in there.

The last new car I handled-my wife's 2018 Compass-it got changed when the computer said to change it(around 6K IIRC-it can theoretically go up to 10K but supposedly bases it on a combination of mileage, time, and driving conditions.

The rebuilt engine last year in my MG got a change after the first 20 minutes of stationary running per the cam grinder, then again after ~350 miles of driving, which is close to what was published way back in 1970(500 miles). The shop that did it used a ~1400ppm Zinc SAE30 both for the initial 20 minutes and then for their testing and when they turned it over to me. They knew I was making a ~300 mile trip the day after I picked it up, and their instructions were "Change it when you get home."
 
Any particles suspended in the oil will be picked up by the filter, the rest are going to be stuck to the oil pan and valve covers so draining isn't going to get them out anyway.

Plain wrong. You obviously missed reading this:

What about particles smaller than 1 µm, 5 µm or even 20 µm? All, most,
many are passing that oil filter. Oil changes are the way to get rid of that.

Particles that small won't necessarily settle anywhere.

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What about particles smaller than 1 µm, 5 µm or even 20 µm? All, most,
many are passing that oil filter. Oil changes are the way to get rid of that.
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I've posted this before.... This pic is from a filter from a car with 972 miles. Is it worthwhile to change oil early? I suppose that depends on how much the "sparkles" bother you. Myself, I am glad I changed the oil even if it is only for my own peace of mind.

41rDET.jpg
 
The smaller particles don't harm mechanically, while the bigger ones in some
cases do. Oil film thickness in some cases (hot oil, high load) can fall into the
the 10 - 20 µm region. Common engine oil filters don't have an efficiency of
99.9 % for 10 µm particles.
That said all metal particles act as a catalyst, accelerating aging of the oil. I've
also been talking about transmissions. Manual transmissions and differentials
usually don't have an oil pump and oil filter (in passenger cars).
Don't get me wrong. I don't criticize anyone who doesn't do early oil changes.
However I do contradict opinions early oil changes don't make any sense at all,
because they do. Feel free to ignore it, pass on it, do it your own way. That's ok.
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On honda car's I waited 30% oil monitor around 5k on my driving,the rest over 3k miles.Then twice a yer after that on the mileage I put it on the car about 11k/year.
 
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