Dry starts after extended sitting

[aigochamaloh]

I have two engines in the family cars that seem to have dry start issues after sitting for a little while (a couple days). A 2002 Sienna that has 265k miles on it, and a 2004 Mazda3 2.3L that I had to change the engine on due to hydrolock.

The remanufactured Mazda3 engine always had dry starts even when the engine was "new." I've searched and read that the couple seconds it makes not nice noises isn't a big issue, but I don't like the sound of a dry top end for a couple seconds.

The Sienna will do the same after sitting for a couple days as well. I just attributed that to the fact the engine is old.

On the other cars we have, the engines can sit for weeks and they will never dry start. Where is the variance?

Just wondering.

 

[JHZR2]

Define dry start.

What oil filter do you use?

 

[SOHCman]

You are probably using cheap oil filters with no anti drain back valve, or an inferior ADBV. You should try a filter with a quality silicon ADBV like a pure1.

Another trick on any engine that has sat for awhile, pull the fuel pump fuse and crank the engine until the oil pressure light goes out. Then pop it back in and start like normal. Presto, no dry start.

 

[RF Overlord]

Another trick: on many fuel-injected cars holding the pedal to the floor while cranking disables the injectors.

 

[shDK]

Originally Posted By: SOHCman
You are probably using cheap oil filters with no anti drain back valve, or an inferior ADBV. You should try a filter with a quality silicon ADBV like a pure1.

Another trick on any engine that has sat for awhile, pull the fuel pump fuse and crank the engine until the oil pressure light goes out. Then pop it back in and start like normal. Presto, no dry start.


pretty certain most newer cars will come up with a warninglight you will need to get turnt of at a workshop when doing that trick.

 

[JHZR2]

Originally Posted By: RF Overlord
Another trick: on many fuel-injected cars holding the pedal to the floor while cranking disables the injectors.


But what if it doesnt???

 

[aigochamaloh]

Posting from my tablet.

I use the full throttle trick with my subaru, but wasn't aware it applied to most fuel injected cars. I did read the Mazda does that too, so I will use that trick. I always pulled the fuse for the sienna.

I always use oem filters for all the family cars. The Mazda uses a cartridge so I'm not sure where the adv is.

Dry start as in the top end rattles for a second or two before pressure builds up.

 

[KrisZ]

I can see using the cranking trick once in a while, like getting the car out of the storage where it sat for months, not few days, like OP says.
While the top end noise may be annoying, it is not a dry start and will not harm the engine if the RPMs are kept low for first few miles after starting, but the wear on the starter and the battery will definitely result in shorter life of these components because of needless cranking, especially during winter.

Also in my cars, the oil pressure light goes out a fraction of a second after I start cranking, but the top end usually ticks for quite a bit longer during low winter temperatures, so how exactly is cranking the car endlessly going to help?

 

[DrDusty86]

My question as well Kris.
My Zx2 makes all kinda of racket when it is first started in sub 40* temps for about 4-6 seconds using the Motor Craft filters. Using the M1 filter M1-211 or Wix or Puro 1 it is quiet. Why is that?