DRY-LOCK paint

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Jun 19, 2007
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Morris County NJ
Hello Folks have a question on DRY-LOCK paint, and rather than ask the guy in Home Depot, I figured there would be more expert advice here.
The house has a cinder block foundation, which was last painted --with who knows what---26 years ago, just before we moved in. The white paint on the wall is in very good condition, all the pores are filled with paint, no efflorecence, but I'd like to brighten up the white a little bit, and add an additional moisture barrier using DRY-LOCK. No leaks in the basement, just a musty smell.
Question: can DRY-LOCK be used over a painted surface, and if it can be used, will it do anything to reduce moisture, since it's already been painted?
Thanks in advance
Steve
 
Unfortunately the answer is: maybe.

What are the existing walls painted with? Over most paints, no. Check with their website.
 
Yea.....IF I remember correctly the last time I studied this stuff many years ago, I thought the product works best on bare cinder block and was questionable on previously painted block. I "thought" that it needs to penetrate into the block to react with the the block material.

Agree with above - contact them or their site.

EDIT: from their site: "A. Yes and no. DRYLOK® may be used over any other cementitious-type waterproofing paint in good, repaintable condition, either inside or outside. However, DRYLOK® cannot be used over an oil or latex-based paint on the inside of a building. DRYLOK® will adhere to these paints, but if it cannot penetrate into the pores of the masonry itself, it will not waterproof the surface."

 
Dry-Lock works best on virgin surfaces that weren't previously painted. I would use an exterior latex paint suited for masonry surfaces. Benjamim Moore Moorlife, or Moorgard would be my picks, depending on the level of sheen you're looking for.
 
Dampness can come through the floor unless there is a vapor barrier under the cement floor.

Dig a hole in the ground and its likely to be damp in warm weather. You will need a dehumidifier if you want a RH in the 40-50 % range in the summer. Vents don't typically help as the RH outside is higher than 50%.
 
Having been down this road, I'd do exactly what demarpaint suggested.

On virgin cement block basements, I've had great results with a product called Thoroseal, but this was many years ago.

Like Donald said, your best bet is dehumidifiers inside and eliminate your water sources from outside.
 
Dry lock will not help much if water is working its way in from the outside.. Any moisture from outside already has migrated through the cinder block and will sit there behind the dry lock.Moisture always wins. You shouldn't need a dehumidifier this time of the year. I would try to improve your ventillation in your basement.
 
Dry-Lock works best on virgin surfaces that weren't previously painted. I would use an exterior latex paint suited for masonry surfaces. Benjamim Moore Moorlife, or Moorgard would be my picks, depending on the level of sheen you're looking for.

Educate me please. I thought that exterior house paint was designed to chalk (self clean) and might not be suitable for indoor basement use.
 
Educate me please. I thought that exterior house paint was designed to chalk (self clean) and might not be suitable for indoor basement use.
It is much better suited for previously painted masonry walls in a basement than Dry-Lock, and works quite well. It breathes, so it is less likely to peel if dampness is a problem. It won't really self clean because it is not exposed to the elements as it would be outside. Over the years we've painted hundreds of basements with the paint I mentioned earlier, and revisited many of those houses several years later to do other work, and the basement walls held up just fine.

As with any paint job proper prep is very important.
 
Thanks guys--I really appreciate all of your quick responses.
I will avoid the DRY-LOCK and extra cost, and use latex exterior paint like Mr Demar suggested.
I forgot to mention, we do have a dehumidifier which doesn't turn on Fall thru Spring.
Also have a French Drain which is covered over in thin white plastic sheets for Radon mitigation.
Picture this: if we get a busted pipe inside the basement, it will fill up like a swimming pool!
Again, thanks much for all of the responses
 
Also have a French Drain which is covered over in thin white plastic sheets for Radon mitigation.
Picture this: if we get a busted pipe inside the basement, it will fill up like a swimming pool!
Again, thanks much for all of the responses
You see a lot of that in my area.

The radon mitigation systems with the exhaust blower do tend to keep basements super nice and dry though.
 
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