Cabinet Painting

MrHorspwer

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Michigan
Update: Epoxy counters are poured

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MrHorspwer

Thread starter
Messages
1,830
Location
Michigan
Prep: Sand all surfaces. If you're going over a non-porous surface (like my laminate countertop), lay down a coat of UMA bonding primer. If the surface is porous (like a new MDF countertop), the bonding primer can be skipped. Paint the surface with regular latex paint in whatever color you choose, it will show through.

Anything you don't want coated in epoxy needs to be covered. Ram Board on the floors and plastic sheeting over all the cabinets. I did my project in two pours. Perimeter cabinets first and island and a small built-in second. That's why the island is covered but the other cabinets are not.

Epoxy: It is a 2-part epoxy (resin and hardener) mixed in a 50/50 ratio. It is covered in two pours: A color coat and a clear coat.

The color coat is totally up to you on aesthetics and there are many, many ways to do it. I did a pretty simple pour. I mixed white metallic powder with my epoxy and just poured, then spread and leveled with a 1/8" notch trowel. Once on the surface, the epoxy is "chopped" with a paintbrush by just dabbing all over. This breaks any surface tension in the epoxy and also re-distributes the metallic, giving a subtle 3D look to the surface. Using a propane torch, go over the entire surface to pop any embedded air bubbles.

For the veining, I used some extra epoxy with black metallic powder added, then chopped where I wanted the veins with a brush. More black epoxy means darker veins. The longer you chop without reloading the brush with black epoxy, the more subtle the dark coloring. You can also use a heat gun to warm and move the metallic, softening and flowing the colors. With the aesthetics how you like, torch again to remove bubbles.

24 hours after the color coat, lightly sand with 220 and do it all again except with nothing added to the epoxy. Pour, trowel, chop, and torch (torching is done three times in 15 minute intervals to really make sure there are no bubbles).

That's a pretty simple pour. There are techniques that involve different metallic powders, pearl powders, glitter, and mica powder. Dyes can be added to the epoxy to tint it. Spray paint reacts with the epoxy and can be used after it is poured or sprayed right into the mixing bucket. Alcohol also reacts and can be used. You can do layers of color in the mixing bucket. Just many, many different things you can do.

Of course, all the while you have to contend with dust, hair, fibers, and bugs landing on your surface. It has a really long working time and remains tacky for 8+ hours. It is "dry" in 24 hours and very light use can resume after a few days. Full curing takes a month. The normal finish is very shiny and reflective. It can be sanded for a more honed look and there are also highly durable top coats in matte and glossy finish.
 
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