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Wife driving the family car and excessive heat? I doubt it. Probably just way more simple instead.
I'd almost bet it's no deposits but just runout (resulting in DTV) due to poor (not so perfect) installation.
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3 years after installation?
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Wife driving the family car and excessive heat? I doubt it. Probably just way more simple instead.
I'd almost bet it's no deposits but just runout (resulting in DTV) due to poor (not so perfect) installation.
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What is poor installation? Why every 2-3 years but not 1? I mean you bolt them on...I clean the hub surface with a wire wheel brush..
Wife driving the family car and excessive heat? I doubt it. Probably just way more simple instead.
I'd almost bet it's no deposits but just runout (resulting in DTV) due to poor (not so perfect) installation.
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Good thoughts. I've had Powers top rotors do it as well as OEM. Could try a different brand next...if there is a next...Nope. It does not have enough carbon. Had same issue with rotors when I bought car, got OE VW (Brembo made), again, same issue after 6,000mls.
Get ATE rotors. I abused them on Atlas here with OE (ZF) pads, downhill, uphill, braking with engine, not braking with engine, fully loaded etc., and they worked great.
VW pulled the same thing on Atlas that Toyota, Honda, etc are doing. Rotors are big, but materials are definitely on the budget side of things:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vw-brake-disc-ate-3qf615301f
By the way, the price DOUBLED since I bought them! I paid them $88 a piece.
I drive my cars "aggressively" meaning later harder braking and never have this issue.My experience is the opposite of the OP's.
My brakes last longer with less brake/rotor pulsing due to driving easier.
When I was a more aggressive driver(younger), I would have to replace brakes sooner with more brake pulsing when braking.
When I say, "aggressive driver", my aggressive type of driving is more like having too much coffee, not as driving like an idiot.
However, it could be the vehicle or it could be the quality of materials, IDK!
how hot we talking? like hitting the car wash down the block from the track gate. lolCar wash while brakes are hot will warp rotors.
That method works to a point/I do that but it eventually stops working...when I replace them. On track the only time you'd have this issue is if you are a n00b and set your parking brake after coming in from a sessionMy wife drives the Tig like your wife the Atlas. I do take it out after a few days and do a re-bed, then some hard braking. Done this since we were married and haven't had brake issues on any of her vehicles. Modern VW pads are an interesting amalgam of material though. They seem to be primarily ceramic because lower dust (except on more performance oriented models, ie; GTI, R etc.) but still stop pretty well (semi-met in the mix) and are quiet. For me and the way I use my brakes (aka HARD)? Zimmerman rotors with higher carbon content and Pagid/Ate semi-metallics. And wash the wheels every 4 hours.
Never have got to that point. Yet. Your better half must really gum them up.That method works to a point/I do that but it eventually stops working...when I replace them.
That is the funniest thing to watch someone chiseling their pads off of the rotors.On track the only time you'd have this issue is if you are a n00b and set your parking brake after coming in from a session![]()
Annnnnddddd I've done it. First event.Never have got to that point. Yet. Your better half must really gum them up.
That is the funniest thing to watch someone chiseling their pads off of the rotors.
I'll have to try them next go-around.Nope. It does not have enough carbon. Had same issue with rotors when I bought car, got OE VW (Brembo made), again, same issue after 6,000mls.
Get ATE rotors. I abused them on Atlas here with OE (ZF) pads, downhill, uphill, braking with engine, not braking with engine, fully loaded etc., and they worked great.
VW pulled the same thing on Atlas that Toyota, Honda, etc are doing. Rotors are big, but materials are definitely on the budget side of things:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vw-brake-disc-ate-3qf615301f
By the way, the price DOUBLED since I bought them! I paid them $88 a piece.
Some folks treat pads as a precious commodity and not a wear item. Never understood it myself, but I drive like a jerk.I drive my cars "aggressively" meaning later harder braking and never have this issue.
On my pre-retirement commute I had a very long downhill (about 1/4 mile) with a stop light at the bottom. Perfect for brake pad deposition. All my cars at the time were manuals.One thing I've noted over multiple vehicles and many years is this....long/soft/"easy" braking is far worse for brakes than short/hard/"abrupt" braking. Now I realize that option 1 is a much more normal way to brake and drive and also won't agitate your passengers/make them sickbut #2 seem to be the best for minimizing heat and pad deposits that lead to pulsating brakes from high-speed slow downs commonly called by many..."warped rotors" (not really warped). All of our larger/heavier family haulers over the last 20 years have been driven my wife. She is an excellent driver and v. smooth. These vehicles have all been operated primiarly around-town so mostly stop/go short distance lots of stops. I note that I had to replace the brakes on her vehicles regularly (rotors) as they all seem to develop the pulsating deposits in ~20-30K which for her is about 3 years. Our Atlas is at 45K/5 years old and I've done the rotors twice. Multiple high-quality brands so that isn't an issue...it just seems to be a thing. My vehicles never have this issue but I basically drive like I'm on a race track haha. What have your experiences with this been? She doesn't do anything wrong, just larger heavier vehicles with lots of braking and lighter longer use of the brakes seems to heat them up and when she sits at a stop light the pads against the rotors you get this issue. I've tired repeatedly re-bedding them but I find it never sorts it. Thank goodness for FCP Euro's Lifetime Replacement! I will say that I did actually have this issue on one vehicle...my new '00 XJ Cherokee...I was living outside of D.C. at the time and went through multiple sets of rotors in the first 2 years that were always handled by warranty, but that vehicle was 100% stop/go commuting up there.
3 years after installation?
What is poor installation? Why every 2-3 years but not 1? I mean you bolt them on...I clean the hub surface with a wire wheel brush.
Heavy vehicles/soft-braking/stop/go traffic is the common denominator. I've had it happen on an XJ I had in similar conditions if you read the OP.
Same. I go through a set of track pads every 3 track days and rotor rings every 10 so 3:1. On the street, my cars always have great smooth braking and that's with later-than-most-would-like slows/stops. I don't have excessive pad wear on the street using more aggressive "hybrid" pads.Some folks treat pads as a precious commodity and not a wear item. Never understood it myself, but I drive like a jerk.
I do not - the rotors are cheap enough but I don't get how if runout is an issue how it isn't an issue right off the bat? I'll admit ignorance here on this. So this would be the hub runout correct? Certainly could be and I can get the gauge to test.Yes, that's fairly common.
Did you check for runout? If you're interested to solve this issue this is the first thing I'd do.
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