Currently using synthetic 10W-30 PCMO in garden tractor. Considering using HDEO, as sometimes operate engine 3-4 hours at a time in warm weather. HDEO is often recommended here for this application, and its higher viscosity indeed seems well suited for extreme heat. However, are there any drawbacks to exposing a small gasoline engine to an HDEO additive package? Possible risk of increased internal corrosion? Perhaps during the off-season? Other concerns or possible drawbacks?
Drawbacks/Concerns of HDEO Additive Package in Garden Tractor?
- Thread starter viscous
- Start date
No.
With something like Delo 400 10w-30 or 15w-40, the oil is API dual rated SN/CI-4, or the like.
Your tractor won't know the difference.
With something like Delo 400 10w-30 or 15w-40, the oil is API dual rated SN/CI-4, or the like.
Your tractor won't know the difference.
Last edited:
IMO HDEO's are excellent choices for garden tractors, not only are they thicker they are often higher in ZDDP both of which I see as a positive for an air cooled engine that is subjected to lots of heat and dust.
Going off memory here, but I think the dual rated HDEO's don't have the higher zinc and phosphorous levels.
No harm will come from it. It depends on the OPE for me. If it has a pressurized oiling system with a filter, not as big of a deal. If it's splash lubricated with no filter, I feel using a better oil with a higher starting TBN and more detergents and dispersants is a good idea to keep down soot/dirt agglomeration when there's no way to filter it out. If looking for something off the shelf, I would probably go for something like Mobil 1 FS Euro 5W-40 with the >3000 ppm Ca and >1000 ppm Zn/P plus a 40 grade can't hurt with the air-cooled engine that regularly sees high oil temps. In reality though, the BMEP is so low with these engines, it's not going to matter much viscosity wise.
I have over 3400 hours on a John Deere 425 garden tractor with a Kawasaki engine. I use Rotella 10w-30, changed every 100-125 hours, along with a $3-$4 filter (usually SuperTech).
Rotella doesn't seem to have hurt the engine any.
Rotella doesn't seem to have hurt the engine any.
Last edited:
No. The HDEOS are some of the best oils on the market. Where would you get these ideas "However, are there any drawbacks to exposing a small gasoline engine to an HDEO additive package? Possible risk of increased internal corrosion? Perhaps during the off-season? Other concerns or possible drawbacks?"
I have run HDEO's (mostly Rotella 15W40 conventional) for years in all of my OPE as well as my 2000 Camry and Chevy truck, all has been good. Now, the Chevy is a pile, but that has nothing to do with the Rotella 
Don't overthink it. Biggest thing is to keep the oil at the proper level and change it once in a while. It doesn't matter what oil you use for the most part.
When I look at examples of Kohler, Briggs and Kawasaki branded oil they all pretty much have more Zinc & Phosphorus than PCMO making them close or similar to a HDEO. If no catalytic converter is present I see nothing that could be harmed by running a CK-4 HDEO. That is all my John Deere LX188 and OPE have used since I’ve owned them.
- Joined
- Jul 11, 2014
- Messages
- 4,117
I would say that HDEO would be a better choice. So, there are no drawbacks.
And, if you have a supply, stick with small engine oil.
I also like Ford's take on API. Their approved list of HDEO's is an excellent start. But, you can't go wrong with the small engine oils from VP, Briggs, Honda, Amsoil...
We have large lawns around here.... notice plenty of neighbor engine failures with mowers/generators... all using various PCMO's. One thing I noticed during disassembly are 'clean engines' with too much wear/tear internally. I don't recommend a PCMO in a small engine, lawn mower, generator, or motorcycle.
Stick with synthetics, HDEO's, and small engine oils when possible. Obviously, a full sump is better than empty. Use what you got, or can get, to top off, if you need to finish the job now. Shop smarter for those tough little engines.
https://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com/Products/Details?cid=70&pid=462
https://www.toro.com/en/homeowner/walk-behind-mowers/fluids-full-synthetic-oil-32oz-117-0066
https://amsoilcontent.com/ams/lit/databulletins/g2217.pdf
https://vpracingfuels.com/product/4-cycle-sae-30-10w30-full-synthetic
https://shop.briggsandstratton.com/...100074-5w30-synthetic-engine-oil-32-oz-bottle
https://prohondaoils.com/engine-oils/4-stroke-engines/
And, obviously, I won't leave out the non-neutered oils from Redline, HPL, Royalpurple, MPT... either.
https://www.redlineoil.com/high-performance-motor-oil
https://www.royalpurple.com/product/hps-high-performance-street-motor-oil/
If you have a normal screw on filter, oversized options are available. You'll get a few more ounces of oil capacity/cooling/filtration/flow....
And, if you have a supply, stick with small engine oil.
I also like Ford's take on API. Their approved list of HDEO's is an excellent start. But, you can't go wrong with the small engine oils from VP, Briggs, Honda, Amsoil...
We have large lawns around here.... notice plenty of neighbor engine failures with mowers/generators... all using various PCMO's. One thing I noticed during disassembly are 'clean engines' with too much wear/tear internally. I don't recommend a PCMO in a small engine, lawn mower, generator, or motorcycle.
Stick with synthetics, HDEO's, and small engine oils when possible. Obviously, a full sump is better than empty. Use what you got, or can get, to top off, if you need to finish the job now. Shop smarter for those tough little engines.
https://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com/Products/Details?cid=70&pid=462
https://www.toro.com/en/homeowner/walk-behind-mowers/fluids-full-synthetic-oil-32oz-117-0066
https://amsoilcontent.com/ams/lit/databulletins/g2217.pdf
https://vpracingfuels.com/product/4-cycle-sae-30-10w30-full-synthetic
https://shop.briggsandstratton.com/...100074-5w30-synthetic-engine-oil-32-oz-bottle
https://prohondaoils.com/engine-oils/4-stroke-engines/
And, obviously, I won't leave out the non-neutered oils from Redline, HPL, Royalpurple, MPT... either.
https://www.redlineoil.com/high-performance-motor-oil
https://www.royalpurple.com/product/hps-high-performance-street-motor-oil/
If you have a normal screw on filter, oversized options are available. You'll get a few more ounces of oil capacity/cooling/filtration/flow....
Using Farm & Fleet 5w40 HDEO in my LT150. I switched from Super Tech 10w30 FS HM which was doing good but a little hard to start in the winter for using the snowblower.
I picked 5w40 thinking if it shears a little it’s still in a 30 weight which is what’s recommended.
Just my $0.02
I picked 5w40 thinking if it shears a little it’s still in a 30 weight which is what’s recommended.
Just my $0.02
Had considered that M1 5W-40. Perhaps that or Rotella T6. Or perhaps just a generic 15W-40, or 5W-40 if available.
Higher zinc can cause corrosion. I created a thread once entitled "Too much zinc = corrosion?" after reading something to that effect.
ZDDP corrosion is only a concern at very high doses (>2000 ppm).
B&S recommends full synthetic of 5w30 in all their engines. I run Mobil 1 5w30/10w30 here in Florida in my John Deere L111 lawn tractor with a 20 HP B&S Twin.
Buy some cheap oil while you're at it and slather it on the deck. It will rust out before you wear out the engine most times.
MTU Category 3.1, you don't see that spec on every HDEO.
Similar threads
- Sticky
- Locked
