Pardon my ignorance, but did the body shop who performed the prior rust repair offer any sort of warranty?
Door rust problems
- Thread starter Dave Sherman
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Originally Posted By: khittner
The rust cancer is in there, and it's not going to be cured without replacing metal.
If you want a vehicle's body to last in the Mid-West salt and rust belt, buy a new one, and as a first task, drive it around the lake to a Krown shop in Canada or Michigan, and get it sprayed. Repeat the spraying process annually. Then worry about which oil/ATF/filters to use to get to 300K+ miles.
No need to go that far. Several in Ohio.
The rust cancer is in there, and it's not going to be cured without replacing metal.
If you want a vehicle's body to last in the Mid-West salt and rust belt, buy a new one, and as a first task, drive it around the lake to a Krown shop in Canada or Michigan, and get it sprayed. Repeat the spraying process annually. Then worry about which oil/ATF/filters to use to get to 300K+ miles.
No need to go that far. Several in Ohio.
Originally Posted By: maxdustington
Originally Posted By: khittner
The rust cancer is in there, and it's not going to be cured without replacing metal.
If you want to fix it, find some matching southern doors and get them oil sprayed. Your doors are done, there is rust in the pinch weld.
Without seeing pics that is quite the bold statement. It could just be surface rust that is barely there so to speak? We need to see pics before jumping to this conclusion but being as it is, a good blast of Rust Check or Krown in there will seep into that seam and stop it. It will have to be applied annually, or more frequently if required, but I can't help but think a good spray on the outside of the rusted area on the bottom seam and a good blast in between the door panels will stop further corrosion.
Originally Posted By: khittner
The rust cancer is in there, and it's not going to be cured without replacing metal.
If you want to fix it, find some matching southern doors and get them oil sprayed. Your doors are done, there is rust in the pinch weld.
Without seeing pics that is quite the bold statement. It could just be surface rust that is barely there so to speak? We need to see pics before jumping to this conclusion but being as it is, a good blast of Rust Check or Krown in there will seep into that seam and stop it. It will have to be applied annually, or more frequently if required, but I can't help but think a good spray on the outside of the rusted area on the bottom seam and a good blast in between the door panels will stop further corrosion.
Originally Posted By: maxdustington
Originally Posted By: khittner
The rust cancer is in there, and it's not going to be cured without replacing metal.
If you want to fix it, find some matching southern doors and get them oil sprayed. Your doors are done, there is rust in the pinch weld.
Depends what you mean by "done". If you define it as having rust, then its circularly true, but you can fairly easily slow rust progress to a crawl.
This is an easy application because the design that retains water and so promotes rust will do the same for whatever inhibitor you treat it with. I favour a mix of hydraulic oil and sunflower oil, but in the US there is stuff you can buy that may be almost as good.
If its wet, dry it by pouring/spraying excess alcohol inside the door and wait for it to evaporate. Then pour/spray your inhibitor in there. Unclogg drain holes with a bit of wire/BBQ skewer, etc.
I'd take the door card off to get good access, but you can get sprayers that'll work through drain holes.
Originally Posted By: khittner
The rust cancer is in there, and it's not going to be cured without replacing metal.
If you want to fix it, find some matching southern doors and get them oil sprayed. Your doors are done, there is rust in the pinch weld.
Depends what you mean by "done". If you define it as having rust, then its circularly true, but you can fairly easily slow rust progress to a crawl.
This is an easy application because the design that retains water and so promotes rust will do the same for whatever inhibitor you treat it with. I favour a mix of hydraulic oil and sunflower oil, but in the US there is stuff you can buy that may be almost as good.
If its wet, dry it by pouring/spraying excess alcohol inside the door and wait for it to evaporate. Then pour/spray your inhibitor in there. Unclogg drain holes with a bit of wire/BBQ skewer, etc.
I'd take the door card off to get good access, but you can get sprayers that'll work through drain holes.
A Scotchbrite whiz wheel will take the rust off, then a flush out with 5% acid vinegar inside and a good vinegar wipe down of the cleaned rusted spot.
Let it sit an hour (keep it wet), flush with clear water and a little baking soda, another fresh water flush and blow dry. this does a fantastic job and the vinegar is only about $1 a gallon.
Spray some etching primer in the closed area with an rattle etching primer can fitted with an old brake clean nozzle and small wand, its going to flood the seam inside. Spray the exposed area with the normal spray nozzle.
Once dry prime with regular primer, sand an paint (rattle cans work fine.
Flood the inside and outside seam with fluid Film once its all dry, alternatively smear "green" brand grease in the exposed seam, it will last a couple of years before requiring reapplication.
I have done a few lower door seams this way and the rust stayed away for a decade or more.
Let it sit an hour (keep it wet), flush with clear water and a little baking soda, another fresh water flush and blow dry. this does a fantastic job and the vinegar is only about $1 a gallon.
Spray some etching primer in the closed area with an rattle etching primer can fitted with an old brake clean nozzle and small wand, its going to flood the seam inside. Spray the exposed area with the normal spray nozzle.
Once dry prime with regular primer, sand an paint (rattle cans work fine.
Flood the inside and outside seam with fluid Film once its all dry, alternatively smear "green" brand grease in the exposed seam, it will last a couple of years before requiring reapplication.
I have done a few lower door seams this way and the rust stayed away for a decade or more.
Originally Posted By: Ducked
Originally Posted By: maxdustington
Originally Posted By: khittner
The rust cancer is in there, and it's not going to be cured without replacing metal.
If you want to fix it, find some matching southern doors and get them oil sprayed. Your doors are done, there is rust in the pinch weld.
Depends what you mean by "done". If you define it as having rust, then its circularly true, but you can fairly easily slow rust progress to a crawl.
This is an easy application because the design that retains water and so promotes rust will do the same for whatever inhibitor you treat it with. I favour a mix of hydraulic oil and sunflower oil, but in the US there is stuff you can buy that may be almost as good.
If its wet, dry it by pouring/spraying excess alcohol inside the door and wait for it to evaporate. Then pour/spray your inhibitor in there. Unclogg drain holes with a bit of wire/BBQ skewer, etc.
I'd take the door card off to get good access, but you can get sprayers that'll work through drain holes.
There is rust in the pinch weld for the second time since 2013. You cannot get in there, the only way to treat it is to sandblast what you can and then immerse the bottom of the door in acid to get in the pinch weld. That is your best chance of stopping the rust. That is why I suggested new doors, treating the symptoms has already failed once within 5 years.
Spraying oil around inside the door is not going to do anything to halt the rust. Maybe in Taiwan, but certainly not in the rust belt.
Originally Posted By: maxdustington
Originally Posted By: khittner
The rust cancer is in there, and it's not going to be cured without replacing metal.
If you want to fix it, find some matching southern doors and get them oil sprayed. Your doors are done, there is rust in the pinch weld.
Depends what you mean by "done". If you define it as having rust, then its circularly true, but you can fairly easily slow rust progress to a crawl.
This is an easy application because the design that retains water and so promotes rust will do the same for whatever inhibitor you treat it with. I favour a mix of hydraulic oil and sunflower oil, but in the US there is stuff you can buy that may be almost as good.
If its wet, dry it by pouring/spraying excess alcohol inside the door and wait for it to evaporate. Then pour/spray your inhibitor in there. Unclogg drain holes with a bit of wire/BBQ skewer, etc.
I'd take the door card off to get good access, but you can get sprayers that'll work through drain holes.
There is rust in the pinch weld for the second time since 2013. You cannot get in there, the only way to treat it is to sandblast what you can and then immerse the bottom of the door in acid to get in the pinch weld. That is your best chance of stopping the rust. That is why I suggested new doors, treating the symptoms has already failed once within 5 years.
Spraying oil around inside the door is not going to do anything to halt the rust. Maybe in Taiwan, but certainly not in the rust belt.
First, spray inside the door (bottom of door area) with BP Blaster.
That will creep the fastest and soak into/around any rusted joints and spot welds,
then spray Fluid Film inside the doors, it also will creep.
it does not have to be reapplied yearly because it won't wash off like under the vehicle.
Wire wheel or scotch-brite the exterior along bottom and spray FF inside.
Check that drain-holes aren't plugged.
That will creep the fastest and soak into/around any rusted joints and spot welds,
then spray Fluid Film inside the doors, it also will creep.
it does not have to be reapplied yearly because it won't wash off like under the vehicle.
Wire wheel or scotch-brite the exterior along bottom and spray FF inside.
Check that drain-holes aren't plugged.
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Originally Posted By: SilverSnake
Originally Posted By: Pajero
Trade it in for another Honda! Seriously, that shouldn't be a problem in this day and age. GM should make things right.
Absolutely correct. There is no excuse for this kind of body panel rust issues with today's technology. Dump the car and buy a brand that does not rust.
There's a brand of car that doesn't rust?
Originally Posted By: Pajero
Trade it in for another Honda! Seriously, that shouldn't be a problem in this day and age. GM should make things right.
Absolutely correct. There is no excuse for this kind of body panel rust issues with today's technology. Dump the car and buy a brand that does not rust.
There's a brand of car that doesn't rust?
Originally Posted By: maxdustington
Spraying oil around inside the door is not going to do anything to halt the rust. Maybe in Taiwan, but certainly not in the rust belt.
Interpreted literally, this is transparently tosh.
I don't have a measure of effectiveness, and I can't therefore compare its effectiveness with other treatments, though I'd be pretty confident it was more cost-effective than..er...acid soaking and sandblasting.
Saying it "is not going to do anythinvg" is simply implausible.
Vegetable oil soaks deep into dry rust, and then it polymerises by oxidation to form a tough, largely impervious coating.
If there's access, you can abrade with aluminium. I'd do this on the outside. I dunno about overpainting it since I dont do cosmetic repairs.
Here's a thread with pictures of deeply rusted brake drums so treated.
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ub...ums#Post3864753
Spraying oil around inside the door is not going to do anything to halt the rust. Maybe in Taiwan, but certainly not in the rust belt.
Interpreted literally, this is transparently tosh.
I don't have a measure of effectiveness, and I can't therefore compare its effectiveness with other treatments, though I'd be pretty confident it was more cost-effective than..er...acid soaking and sandblasting.
Saying it "is not going to do anythinvg" is simply implausible.
Vegetable oil soaks deep into dry rust, and then it polymerises by oxidation to form a tough, largely impervious coating.
If there's access, you can abrade with aluminium. I'd do this on the outside. I dunno about overpainting it since I dont do cosmetic repairs.
Here's a thread with pictures of deeply rusted brake drums so treated.
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ub...ums#Post3864753
On my old Ford Focus I had the bottom of the doors, at the pinch welds start to bubble up and rust show through. It was only on the inside and nothing was visible on the outside skin of the door. Since the car was 9 years old I only sprayed the inside door with Rust Cure (similar to fluid film).
I sold the car about two and a half years later and the rust did not progress any further. I had similar results with my 95 Accord i had long time ago.
So this kind of treatment in these areas will significantly slow down the rust and in a lot of cases is more effective than the normally executed rust repairs done by so many body shops.
I sold the car about two and a half years later and the rust did not progress any further. I had similar results with my 95 Accord i had long time ago.
So this kind of treatment in these areas will significantly slow down the rust and in a lot of cases is more effective than the normally executed rust repairs done by so many body shops.
JTK
$100 Site Donor 2025
Sad that this 2013 began corroding there in only two years. I have had domestic vehicles do this in the door crimp area in a few years too, but never within the 3/36. I was however, able to get Ford to good will most of it many years back.
Had liftgate rust issues on our 2016 Nissan Quest recently, due to a plastic chrome piece digging into the paint. We were beyond the 3/36, but Nissan covered ~90% of it. Cost me like $50-60 for the repair, but it did take some campaigning to get to that.
To the comments in regards to fluid film type products slowing or stopping door crimp rust, that concept is new to me. I'm not saying it can't help, but that does seem too good to be true to me.
Had liftgate rust issues on our 2016 Nissan Quest recently, due to a plastic chrome piece digging into the paint. We were beyond the 3/36, but Nissan covered ~90% of it. Cost me like $50-60 for the repair, but it did take some campaigning to get to that.
To the comments in regards to fluid film type products slowing or stopping door crimp rust, that concept is new to me. I'm not saying it can't help, but that does seem too good to be true to me.
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Originally Posted By: JTK
To the comments in regards to fluid film type products slowing or stopping door crimp rust, that concept is new to me. I'm not saying it can't help, but that does seem too good to be true to me.
The concept is simple. All the vehicles I dealt with have rolled up and crimped door edges that are spot welded in few places. They have few drain holes at the bottom.
When I treat the inside of the door with rustproofing oil, the oil will always creep through to the outside in few days.
So what does this tell you? These areas are not water tight and water will penetrate and sit in these cavities. By placing oil in there, water cannot penetrate them anymore.
And it works extremely well, but the door will collect dust and dirt at the bottom edge. So extra cleaning is required.
To the comments in regards to fluid film type products slowing or stopping door crimp rust, that concept is new to me. I'm not saying it can't help, but that does seem too good to be true to me.
The concept is simple. All the vehicles I dealt with have rolled up and crimped door edges that are spot welded in few places. They have few drain holes at the bottom.
When I treat the inside of the door with rustproofing oil, the oil will always creep through to the outside in few days.
So what does this tell you? These areas are not water tight and water will penetrate and sit in these cavities. By placing oil in there, water cannot penetrate them anymore.
And it works extremely well, but the door will collect dust and dirt at the bottom edge. So extra cleaning is required.
JTK
$100 Site Donor 2025
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Originally Posted By: JTK
To the comments in regards to fluid film type products slowing or stopping door crimp rust, that concept is new to me. I'm not saying it can't help, but that does seem too good to be true to me.
The concept is simple. All the vehicles I dealt with have rolled up and crimped door edges that are spot welded in few places. They have few drain holes at the bottom.
When I treat the inside of the door with rustproofing oil, the oil will always creep through to the outside in few days.
So what does this tell you? These areas are not water tight and water will penetrate and sit in these cavities. By placing oil in there, water cannot penetrate them anymore.
And it works extremely well, but the door will collect dust and dirt at the bottom edge. So extra cleaning is required.
Kris, I get that, but have you treated a car with rusty door crimps and had the rust stop there and not continue?
Originally Posted By: JTK
To the comments in regards to fluid film type products slowing or stopping door crimp rust, that concept is new to me. I'm not saying it can't help, but that does seem too good to be true to me.
The concept is simple. All the vehicles I dealt with have rolled up and crimped door edges that are spot welded in few places. They have few drain holes at the bottom.
When I treat the inside of the door with rustproofing oil, the oil will always creep through to the outside in few days.
So what does this tell you? These areas are not water tight and water will penetrate and sit in these cavities. By placing oil in there, water cannot penetrate them anymore.
And it works extremely well, but the door will collect dust and dirt at the bottom edge. So extra cleaning is required.
Kris, I get that, but have you treated a car with rusty door crimps and had the rust stop there and not continue?
I used to use fluid film, but its too much of a mess, slippery, makes working under the car miserable. In splash areas it only lasts a couple weeks to a month before its almost off. I switched to corroseal, and really like it. Check out this pic of my rusty Maxima project car. All the rust turned to a hard dark shiny coating that stays clean and doesn't wash off.
Originally Posted By: JTK
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Originally Posted By: JTK
To the comments in regards to fluid film type products slowing or stopping door crimp rust, that concept is new to me. I'm not saying it can't help, but that does seem too good to be true to me.
The concept is simple. All the vehicles I dealt with have rolled up and crimped door edges that are spot welded in few places. They have few drain holes at the bottom.
When I treat the inside of the door with rustproofing oil, the oil will always creep through to the outside in few days.
So what does this tell you? These areas are not water tight and water will penetrate and sit in these cavities. By placing oil in there, water cannot penetrate them anymore.
And it works extremely well, but the door will collect dust and dirt at the bottom edge. So extra cleaning is required.
Kris, I get that, but have you treated a car with rusty door crimps and had the rust stop there and not continue?
Yes, door crimps, trunks, hoods, even the corners of wheel wells where they meet the elrear bumper. Basically if an area is not totally exposed to washing off effect, the treatment will either stop the rust process or severely slow it down. You need to re-aaply it though.
In the exposed areas like pictured above, rustproofing oils don't seem to be that effective. They dry up pretty quickly and the rust continues after that.
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Originally Posted By: JTK
To the comments in regards to fluid film type products slowing or stopping door crimp rust, that concept is new to me. I'm not saying it can't help, but that does seem too good to be true to me.
The concept is simple. All the vehicles I dealt with have rolled up and crimped door edges that are spot welded in few places. They have few drain holes at the bottom.
When I treat the inside of the door with rustproofing oil, the oil will always creep through to the outside in few days.
So what does this tell you? These areas are not water tight and water will penetrate and sit in these cavities. By placing oil in there, water cannot penetrate them anymore.
And it works extremely well, but the door will collect dust and dirt at the bottom edge. So extra cleaning is required.
Kris, I get that, but have you treated a car with rusty door crimps and had the rust stop there and not continue?
Yes, door crimps, trunks, hoods, even the corners of wheel wells where they meet the elrear bumper. Basically if an area is not totally exposed to washing off effect, the treatment will either stop the rust process or severely slow it down. You need to re-aaply it though.
In the exposed areas like pictured above, rustproofing oils don't seem to be that effective. They dry up pretty quickly and the rust continues after that.
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Originally Posted By: supton
Originally Posted By: SilverSnake
Originally Posted By: Pajero
Trade it in for another Honda! Seriously, that shouldn't be a problem in this day and age. GM should make things right.
Absolutely correct. There is no excuse for this kind of body panel rust issues with today's technology. Dump the car and buy a brand that does not rust.
There's a brand of car that doesn't rust?
Plastic cars do not rust. Just sayin'
Originally Posted By: SilverSnake
Originally Posted By: Pajero
Trade it in for another Honda! Seriously, that shouldn't be a problem in this day and age. GM should make things right.
Absolutely correct. There is no excuse for this kind of body panel rust issues with today's technology. Dump the car and buy a brand that does not rust.
There's a brand of car that doesn't rust?
Plastic cars do not rust. Just sayin'
A possible enhancement for an initial veg oil treatment, which I havnt tried, would be to heat it up to close to the smoke point before pouring it in. It will then be very penetrative. Once its cooled you could add more cold stuff for greater buildup.
Hot oil will tend to drive off any trapped water, but would require caution, since if theres a lot the steam explosion could blow hot oil back in your face.
Commercial products may not take so well to heating, since I imagine most of them contain volatile and flammable solvents,
Hot oil will tend to drive off any trapped water, but would require caution, since if theres a lot the steam explosion could blow hot oil back in your face.
Commercial products may not take so well to heating, since I imagine most of them contain volatile and flammable solvents,
Originally Posted By: Ducked
Originally Posted By: maxdustington
Spraying oil around inside the door is not going to do anything to halt the rust. Maybe in Taiwan, but certainly not in the rust belt.
Interpreted literally, this is transparently tosh.
I don't have a measure of effectiveness, and I can't therefore compare its effectiveness with other treatments, though I'd be pretty confident it was more cost-effective than..er...acid soaking and sandblasting.
Saying it "is not going to do anythinvg" is simply implausible.
Vegetable oil soaks deep into dry rust, and then it polymerises by oxidation to form a tough, largely impervious coating.
If there's access, you can abrade with aluminium. I'd do this on the outside. I dunno about overpainting it since I dont do cosmetic repairs.
Here's a thread with pictures of deeply rusted brake drums so treated.
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ub...ums#Post3864753
I understand that rust is a good surface for holding oil. What you cannot seem to grasp is that as long as the rust exists, it will worsen if left in a corrosive environment. That is why I'm not interested in treating rust, only eliminating it. It is funny that you mention cost effectiveness, according to my math putting any money or effort into treating the symptoms is a complete waste. This car is a 2013 and is still worth something, enough for an extensive DIY attempt to be worthwhile. The tools and materials would probably be a few hundred CAD, I just blasted and acid treated a set of rusty fenders in my backyard last autumn for about that price. $500 USD at the absolute maximum. Besides this is BITOG baby, we save money by DIYing here.
You can spray it with as much oil and rub it with as much aluminum foil as you want, it will not magically turn it into not-rust or give it magical rust resistance. I live in Ontario dude, I see people try to fight rust by sanding away or putting grease on it or other half-baked measures. You can't get away with stuff like that where they salt the roads.
Originally Posted By: maxdustington
Spraying oil around inside the door is not going to do anything to halt the rust. Maybe in Taiwan, but certainly not in the rust belt.
Interpreted literally, this is transparently tosh.
I don't have a measure of effectiveness, and I can't therefore compare its effectiveness with other treatments, though I'd be pretty confident it was more cost-effective than..er...acid soaking and sandblasting.
Saying it "is not going to do anythinvg" is simply implausible.
Vegetable oil soaks deep into dry rust, and then it polymerises by oxidation to form a tough, largely impervious coating.
If there's access, you can abrade with aluminium. I'd do this on the outside. I dunno about overpainting it since I dont do cosmetic repairs.
Here's a thread with pictures of deeply rusted brake drums so treated.
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ub...ums#Post3864753
I understand that rust is a good surface for holding oil. What you cannot seem to grasp is that as long as the rust exists, it will worsen if left in a corrosive environment. That is why I'm not interested in treating rust, only eliminating it. It is funny that you mention cost effectiveness, according to my math putting any money or effort into treating the symptoms is a complete waste. This car is a 2013 and is still worth something, enough for an extensive DIY attempt to be worthwhile. The tools and materials would probably be a few hundred CAD, I just blasted and acid treated a set of rusty fenders in my backyard last autumn for about that price. $500 USD at the absolute maximum. Besides this is BITOG baby, we save money by DIYing here.
You can spray it with as much oil and rub it with as much aluminum foil as you want, it will not magically turn it into not-rust or give it magical rust resistance. I live in Ontario dude, I see people try to fight rust by sanding away or putting grease on it or other half-baked measures. You can't get away with stuff like that where they salt the roads.
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por 15 and paint what you can see then shoot oil into the door every year to slow it.
Originally Posted By: maxdustington
Originally Posted By: Ducked
Originally Posted By: maxdustington
Spraying oil around inside the door is not going to do anything to halt the rust. Maybe in Taiwan, but certainly not in the rust belt.
Interpreted literally, this is transparently tosh.
I don't have a measure of effectiveness, and I can't therefore compare its effectiveness with other treatments, though I'd be pretty confident it was more cost-effective than..er...acid soaking and sandblasting.
Saying it "is not going to do anythinvg" is simply implausible.
Vegetable oil soaks deep into dry rust, and then it polymerises by oxidation to form a tough, largely impervious coating.
If there's access, you can abrade with aluminium. I'd do this on the outside. I dunno about overpainting it since I dont do cosmetic repairs.
Here's a thread with pictures of deeply rusted brake drums so treated.
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ub...ums#Post3864753
I understand that rust is a good surface for holding oil. What you cannot seem to grasp is that as long as the rust exists, it will worsen....
I think you might be taking the rust cancer/rust bug analogy a bit too literally. Rust isn't "alive" and it doesn't "breed". Its a chemical process which requires water and oxygen to proceed. Exclude those, which you will do to a large extent with hot vegetable oil, and you slow it right down. Oil impregnated rust is harmless, though you may find it offensive.
You won't stop it. Water and oxygen will get under your coating which will need to be periodically topped up. I'd bet you wont stop it with acid treatment and painting either. You MIGHT buy more time, but at considerable cost in time. effort, or money.
Re the OH! Canada is so salty thang, OH! Scotland, where most of my banger bodging has been, is pretty salty too, but probably not so reliably cold, which tends to promote rust. When it isn't freezing the Gulf Stream means its wet and fairly mild. Very few old Fiats in Jockland.
Here there's no road salting and very few old cars, so you dont see many rusty ones outside the aboriginal areas. However, my car was owned by a surfer, and has been parked near the beach in onshore typhoonal winds. Think warm sea water pressure wash for a day or two, then OH! Canada might not seem so bad.
Originally Posted By: Ducked
Originally Posted By: maxdustington
Spraying oil around inside the door is not going to do anything to halt the rust. Maybe in Taiwan, but certainly not in the rust belt.
Interpreted literally, this is transparently tosh.
I don't have a measure of effectiveness, and I can't therefore compare its effectiveness with other treatments, though I'd be pretty confident it was more cost-effective than..er...acid soaking and sandblasting.
Saying it "is not going to do anythinvg" is simply implausible.
Vegetable oil soaks deep into dry rust, and then it polymerises by oxidation to form a tough, largely impervious coating.
If there's access, you can abrade with aluminium. I'd do this on the outside. I dunno about overpainting it since I dont do cosmetic repairs.
Here's a thread with pictures of deeply rusted brake drums so treated.
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ub...ums#Post3864753
I understand that rust is a good surface for holding oil. What you cannot seem to grasp is that as long as the rust exists, it will worsen....
I think you might be taking the rust cancer/rust bug analogy a bit too literally. Rust isn't "alive" and it doesn't "breed". Its a chemical process which requires water and oxygen to proceed. Exclude those, which you will do to a large extent with hot vegetable oil, and you slow it right down. Oil impregnated rust is harmless, though you may find it offensive.
You won't stop it. Water and oxygen will get under your coating which will need to be periodically topped up. I'd bet you wont stop it with acid treatment and painting either. You MIGHT buy more time, but at considerable cost in time. effort, or money.
Re the OH! Canada is so salty thang, OH! Scotland, where most of my banger bodging has been, is pretty salty too, but probably not so reliably cold, which tends to promote rust. When it isn't freezing the Gulf Stream means its wet and fairly mild. Very few old Fiats in Jockland.
Here there's no road salting and very few old cars, so you dont see many rusty ones outside the aboriginal areas. However, my car was owned by a surfer, and has been parked near the beach in onshore typhoonal winds. Think warm sea water pressure wash for a day or two, then OH! Canada might not seem so bad.
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