I'm planning to buy B&M transmission cooler kit for my maxima. Will this help my transmission while I'm spraying nos? Cause if I sparay nos now after that transmission shifting hard until next day.
Does tranny cooler kit really help?
- Thread starter Rp1990
- Start date
- Status
It won't help with spraying nos. It will help with the daily grind, especially in the summer. A cooler transmission is a happier transmission, to a point. Too cool and reduced fuel economy and sluggishness will result.
I dont know. I think it depends on what kind of cooling it already has. Is it just going though the radiator?
You need to monitor the transmission oil temperatures and see where they are at. A good cooler will keep from burning up the fluid, and add some fluid capacity.
JHZR2
Staff member
seriously, nos and an AT maxima?!?
Trans failures or an early demise can for sure be from overheated fluid.
Anyone who says otherwise is not helping you.
Remember that for every rise of 17 deg F, the speed of any chemical reaction doubles. So those components which are affected by heat will last much longer with cooler temps.
Also, at 240 and up, you can have clutch pack damage.
Anyone who says otherwise is not helping you.
Remember that for every rise of 17 deg F, the speed of any chemical reaction doubles. So those components which are affected by heat will last much longer with cooler temps.
Also, at 240 and up, you can have clutch pack damage.
Originally Posted By: Onmo'Eegusee
I dont know. I think it depends on what kind of cooling it already has. Is it just going though the radiator?
Yes I think is will be going through the radiator.
I dont know. I think it depends on what kind of cooling it already has. Is it just going though the radiator?
Yes I think is will be going through the radiator.
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
seriously, nos and an AT maxima?!?
Yes. Y not there r some nos with every car on AT.
seriously, nos and an AT maxima?!?
Yes. Y not there r some nos with every car on AT.
Then, yeah, I would install a cooler. It looks like B&M coolers are stacked plate design, which is good, that is a more efficient design than tube & fin type.
If you're set on running nitrous, spend the money elsewhere. N20 rips will be but a few seconds at a time. A transmission cooler is helpful for sustained high load conditions like continuous high speed, towing, or stop and go in extremely hot climates.
Put your money into safety devices for your N20, like making sure your fuel delivery is up to par and even between cylinders, that your engine, drivetrain etc are in 100% perfect shape and any weak spots are fixed/upgraded to handle the extra stress, fuel PSI/pump is up to par, right heatrange plugs, an EGT gauge, an RPM window switch, N20 press gauge, a good thorough test on the dyno by an experienced tuner to make sure you're fueled right etc. - And that your BRAKES and TIRES and suspension can steer/stop the extra go.
My apologies if this is a built / track car and you know all this, but I've met too many people that think a NOS kit or a "cheap" bolt on turbo kit is the way to turn their daily driven economy car into a 'stang eater on a low budget and end up with a blown engine, or a spinout/rollover/collision even with "just a 35 shot"/"just 6psi".
Boost does wonderful things, but is never cheap. Pay now or later. I've been there, making an everyday car faster costs a lot more than buying a faster car. There are no ways around this. The HP/torque should be the LAST upgrade, after the rest of the car is ready for it, and you're ready to find another ride to work if luck isn't with you that day.
Again, I apologize if you know all this but your post reminds me of myself at 19 trying to build my Tercel to 200HP. I broke a lot of parts, spent a ton of money, and the best I got was a slightly less slow car (at high RPM anyways, slower at low) that now was totally unreliable and hard to drive in traffic. Whoever picks those bones clean at the scrapyard will love me, I sunk enough new parts in there to pay off a better NEW car.
Even if you do everything the RIGHT (expensive) way with no shortcuts, turning a small displacement econo-car into a fast sport-compact you WILL break it. Several times. If you cheap out it will do NOTHING but break.
I feel old saying all that as a late twenties guy, but it's the truth. Enjoy your current car as a reliable daily driver, and save up for a fast toy in the meantime.
You know the saying, fast/cheap/reliable?
It's true man, you can only have two.
Good luck whatever you choose to do.
Put your money into safety devices for your N20, like making sure your fuel delivery is up to par and even between cylinders, that your engine, drivetrain etc are in 100% perfect shape and any weak spots are fixed/upgraded to handle the extra stress, fuel PSI/pump is up to par, right heatrange plugs, an EGT gauge, an RPM window switch, N20 press gauge, a good thorough test on the dyno by an experienced tuner to make sure you're fueled right etc. - And that your BRAKES and TIRES and suspension can steer/stop the extra go.
My apologies if this is a built / track car and you know all this, but I've met too many people that think a NOS kit or a "cheap" bolt on turbo kit is the way to turn their daily driven economy car into a 'stang eater on a low budget and end up with a blown engine, or a spinout/rollover/collision even with "just a 35 shot"/"just 6psi".
Boost does wonderful things, but is never cheap. Pay now or later. I've been there, making an everyday car faster costs a lot more than buying a faster car. There are no ways around this. The HP/torque should be the LAST upgrade, after the rest of the car is ready for it, and you're ready to find another ride to work if luck isn't with you that day.
Again, I apologize if you know all this but your post reminds me of myself at 19 trying to build my Tercel to 200HP. I broke a lot of parts, spent a ton of money, and the best I got was a slightly less slow car (at high RPM anyways, slower at low) that now was totally unreliable and hard to drive in traffic. Whoever picks those bones clean at the scrapyard will love me, I sunk enough new parts in there to pay off a better NEW car.
Even if you do everything the RIGHT (expensive) way with no shortcuts, turning a small displacement econo-car into a fast sport-compact you WILL break it. Several times. If you cheap out it will do NOTHING but break.
I feel old saying all that as a late twenties guy, but it's the truth. Enjoy your current car as a reliable daily driver, and save up for a fast toy in the meantime.
You know the saying, fast/cheap/reliable?
It's true man, you can only have two.
Good luck whatever you choose to do.
Originally Posted By: Rohan
I'm planning to buy B&M transmission cooler kit for my maxima.
Just buy a used one that's the same style from Ebay,you'll need that extra money you save for something to fix
I'm planning to buy B&M transmission cooler kit for my maxima.
Just buy a used one that's the same style from Ebay,you'll need that extra money you save for something to fix
Originally Posted By: sciphi
Too cool and reduced fuel economy and sluggishness will result.
How's this possible?
Too cool and reduced fuel economy and sluggishness will result.
How's this possible?
Originally Posted By: Rohan
I'm planning to buy B&M transmission cooler kit for my maxima. Will this help my transmission while I'm spraying nos? Cause if I sparay nos now after that transmission shifting hard until next day.
It will help your transmission all the time
I'm planning to buy B&M transmission cooler kit for my maxima. Will this help my transmission while I'm spraying nos? Cause if I sparay nos now after that transmission shifting hard until next day.
It will help your transmission all the time
Originally Posted By: daves66nova
Originally Posted By: Rohan
I'm planning to buy B&M transmission cooler kit for my maxima.
Just buy a used one that's the same style from Ebay,you'll need that extra money you save for something to fix
Umm, this sounds like one of the worst ideas ever. Unless you can flush it real well, or use a filter, I wouldnt do that..
Actually, now that I think about it, I think a Magnefine would be a good add on along with the cooler anyway..
Originally Posted By: Rohan
I'm planning to buy B&M transmission cooler kit for my maxima.
Just buy a used one that's the same style from Ebay,you'll need that extra money you save for something to fix
Umm, this sounds like one of the worst ideas ever. Unless you can flush it real well, or use a filter, I wouldnt do that..
Actually, now that I think about it, I think a Magnefine would be a good add on along with the cooler anyway..
Originally Posted By: pidster
If you're set on running nitrous, spend the money elsewhere. N20 rips will be but a few seconds at a time. A transmission cooler is helpful for sustained high load conditions like continuous high speed, towing, or stop and go in extremely hot climates.
Put your money into safety devices for your N20, like making sure your fuel delivery is up to par and even between cylinders, that your engine, drivetrain etc are in 100% perfect shape and any weak spots are fixed/upgraded to handle the extra stress, fuel PSI/pump is up to par, right heatrange plugs, an EGT gauge, an RPM window switch, N20 press gauge, a good thorough test on
the dyno by an experienced tuner to make sure you're fueled right etc. - And
that your BRAKES and TIRES and suspension can steer/stop the extra go.
My apologies if this is a built / track car and you know all this, but I've met too many people that think a NOS kit or a "cheap" bolt on turbo kit is the way to turn their daily driven economy car into a 'stang eater on a low budget and end up with a blown engine, or a spinout/rollover/collision even with "just a 35 shot"/"just 6psi".
Boost does wonderful things, but is never cheap. Pay now or later. I've been there, making an everyday car faster costs a lot more than buying a faster car. There are no ways around this. The HP/torque should be the LAST upgrade, after the rest of the car is ready for it, and you're ready to find another ride to work if luck isn't with you that day.
Again, I apologize if you know all this but your post reminds me of myself at 19 trying to build my Tercel to 200HP. I broke a lot of parts, spent a ton of money, and the best I got was a slightly less slow car (at high RPM anyways, slower at low) that now was totally unreliable and hard to drive in traffic. Whoever picks those bones clean at the scrapyard will love me, I sunk enough new parts in there to pay off a better NEW car.
Even if you do everything the RIGHT (expensive) way with no shortcuts, turning a small displacement econo-car into a fast sport-compact you WILL break it. Several times. If you cheap out it will do NOTHING but break.
I feel old saying all that as a late twenties guy, but it's the truth. Enjoy your current car as a reliable daily driver, and save up for a fast toy in the meantime.
You know the saying, fast/cheap/reliable?
It's true man, you can only have two.
Good luck whatever you choose to do.
Good one! Thank for your information about what to do with nos.
The only thing I do not have is nos pressure gauage,heater pad,fuel pump, n I just changed the pads all around. Next 2 week I'm gonna add BC racing coilover kit n after that B&M transmission cooler kit.
I have tune the car timing 2 degress for nos for 75 shot.
If you're set on running nitrous, spend the money elsewhere. N20 rips will be but a few seconds at a time. A transmission cooler is helpful for sustained high load conditions like continuous high speed, towing, or stop and go in extremely hot climates.
Put your money into safety devices for your N20, like making sure your fuel delivery is up to par and even between cylinders, that your engine, drivetrain etc are in 100% perfect shape and any weak spots are fixed/upgraded to handle the extra stress, fuel PSI/pump is up to par, right heatrange plugs, an EGT gauge, an RPM window switch, N20 press gauge, a good thorough test on
the dyno by an experienced tuner to make sure you're fueled right etc. - And
that your BRAKES and TIRES and suspension can steer/stop the extra go.
My apologies if this is a built / track car and you know all this, but I've met too many people that think a NOS kit or a "cheap" bolt on turbo kit is the way to turn their daily driven economy car into a 'stang eater on a low budget and end up with a blown engine, or a spinout/rollover/collision even with "just a 35 shot"/"just 6psi".
Boost does wonderful things, but is never cheap. Pay now or later. I've been there, making an everyday car faster costs a lot more than buying a faster car. There are no ways around this. The HP/torque should be the LAST upgrade, after the rest of the car is ready for it, and you're ready to find another ride to work if luck isn't with you that day.
Again, I apologize if you know all this but your post reminds me of myself at 19 trying to build my Tercel to 200HP. I broke a lot of parts, spent a ton of money, and the best I got was a slightly less slow car (at high RPM anyways, slower at low) that now was totally unreliable and hard to drive in traffic. Whoever picks those bones clean at the scrapyard will love me, I sunk enough new parts in there to pay off a better NEW car.
Even if you do everything the RIGHT (expensive) way with no shortcuts, turning a small displacement econo-car into a fast sport-compact you WILL break it. Several times. If you cheap out it will do NOTHING but break.
I feel old saying all that as a late twenties guy, but it's the truth. Enjoy your current car as a reliable daily driver, and save up for a fast toy in the meantime.
You know the saying, fast/cheap/reliable?
It's true man, you can only have two.
Good luck whatever you choose to do.
Good one! Thank for your information about what to do with nos.
The only thing I do not have is nos pressure gauage,heater pad,fuel pump, n I just changed the pads all around. Next 2 week I'm gonna add BC racing coilover kit n after that B&M transmission cooler kit.
I have tune the car timing 2 degress for nos for 75 shot.
Originally Posted By: beast3300
Honestly, a cooler is probably not going to do anything. Most modern transmission don't break from temperature related stuff. Usually hard parts break, axles, input/output shafts, chains.
NOT TRUE! Heat is the #1 killer of transmissions.
Honestly, a cooler is probably not going to do anything. Most modern transmission don't break from temperature related stuff. Usually hard parts break, axles, input/output shafts, chains.
NOT TRUE! Heat is the #1 killer of transmissions.
If you add a transmission cooler, get one with a thermostat control so that the ATF isn’t over cooled. ATF has an operating temperature or operating viscosity to be more exact. If it’s too cool the transmission won’t act right and you’re mileage will tank.
In real life, simply putting cardboard or whatever over the aftermarket cooler fins in winter is just fine.
- Status
Similar threads
