I am not a regular on here, and don't know any facts about filters or anything. I have a Ford guy that I work with who swears you have to run a Motorcraft filter on all Fords due to the type of valving that they have. Is there any truth to this. I will be running 5k intervals, so nothing crazy. Truck is a 3.5 Ecoboost with 125k on it, and I occasionally tow my 20' bass boat. Mostly short trips around town, as it is not a daily driver. Any recommendations or thoughts on this?
Does the 3.5 Ecoboost need a Motorcraft
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You will be fine with about any filter you find in stores. I will say however, you can purchase, with shipping costs factored in a 12 pack of Motorcraft FL500S filters from RockAuto for about $4.80 per filter. That will fit a 3.5 EcoBoost and they are the same metric thread as all Gen IV and above GM LS filters if the '13 Silverado in your signature is still a vehicle in your fleet. They fit all LS. Only difference is FL500S is a tad longer.
You don't need to run a motorcraft oil filter with the ecoboost motors.
It's recommended to run a motorcraft filter specifically with the 3v 4.6/5.4 motors to prevent ticking at startup from the VCT (variable cam timing) solenoids, as the thread-end bypass is supposed to aid in retaining more oil in the filter to prevent "dry" startups versus a dome-end bypass.
Bypass position doesn't seem to make a discernable difference on pretty much any other motor, regardless of manufacturer.
It's recommended to run a motorcraft filter specifically with the 3v 4.6/5.4 motors to prevent ticking at startup from the VCT (variable cam timing) solenoids, as the thread-end bypass is supposed to aid in retaining more oil in the filter to prevent "dry" startups versus a dome-end bypass.
Bypass position doesn't seem to make a discernable difference on pretty much any other motor, regardless of manufacturer.
Zee09
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OP some videos on YT suggested the same. That is where he probably got that info.
Zee09
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General question
When you buy a 12 pack from RA- how old are the filters you get? Thanks!
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The pack I bought a few weeks ago, all filters were in one big box. All with the new label and date codes of April 2021.
Zee09
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Thanks Red!!!!!!!
The bypass valve doesn't have anything to do with retaining oil in the gallaries and filter after the engine is shut off. The ADBV valve does.
Use a filter with a silicone anti-drain back valve. The FL500S has one and so do many other filters like the Fram XG10575 and TG10575. So do the Wix 57502 and many more do as well. Just avoid the cheap rubber valve filters and you'll be okay.
The reason for the silicon valve is that the rubbers ones can stop working after a while. Then the oil drains back into the sump and the timing chain tensioner backs off and you'll get timing chain rattle on start up. This happened to me with a cheap Luber-finer filter a quick change oil place installed.
The reason for the silicon valve is that the rubbers ones can stop working after a while. Then the oil drains back into the sump and the timing chain tensioner backs off and you'll get timing chain rattle on start up. This happened to me with a cheap Luber-finer filter a quick change oil place installed.
Even the cheap basic Fram PH10575 filter now has a silicon valve in it.
No you don't...but I do...
I shouldn't BITOG before my coffee. The thread-end bypass is to retain unfiltered oil from going in to the engine as per this FL-820s comparison
And purolator reds now too.
Every bypass valve, regardless of where it's located, causes unfiltered oil to bypass the filter when the bypass valve opens.
The whole purpose of the base end bypass on Motorcraft filters, that are typically mounted somewhat base up on Fords, is to prevent any crud settled at the bottom of the filter from getting swept through the bypass valve if the valve happens to open. Just as the pitch chart you linked shows.
that motor was designed to use motorcraft filters . that’s all you better be using
Im sure that Ford would tell you that you must use a Motorcraft filter but I doubt that it really matters, as long as you use a filter that meets the specs of the OEM filter.
That said, there is absolutely nothing wrong with a Motorcraft. Its a very good or even great filter but I wouldnt buy into the notion that you MUST use an OEM filter.
That said, there is absolutely nothing wrong with a Motorcraft. Its a very good or even great filter but I wouldnt buy into the notion that you MUST use an OEM filter.
I used a Fram HM2870A on a 2.0T, after repairing an oil leak today. Obviously not a 3.5L but still an Ecoboost, nonetheless.
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