For sure you can run the carbs dry if they are vacuum operated.
If it has a petcock it's easy to access by nature. Disconnect the fuel line below the petcock, disconnect the vacuum source off the petcock or the intake boot, start the bike and run it dry. Unless you drain the float bowls which they are designed to do with a drain on the bottom. I haven't seen bikes, back to the 1970s and '80s, that don't have bowl drain plugs. It's a matter of wanting to put in the short amount of time to do it or not, possibly.
In any case good old red stabil goes in my tank as it may or may not get ridden for 4 to 8 weeks for any given stretch over the winter. Any Stabil formulation will work, IMO.
Ethanol is not the issue with gummed up carbs. My carbureted bike from 1980 that I recently sold never had an issue with E10, and e10 was never a consideration when those bikes were designed. I think it may have more to do with overall fuel system condition and keeping fuel lines/o-rings reasonably replaced at intervals. Honestly that was true back in the day, too. If a 20-40-year-old bike with 20-40-year-old fuel lines and rubber parts inside the carburetors has problems and it gets blamed on ethanol, that's not where the issue lies.
Also interesting article about the stability of higher octane gasoline with respect to being a more refined product. I see there could be some merit there.