Does anyone buy from Tire Rack anymore? It doesn't seem worth it......
- Thread starter Zack1978
- Start date
Had to order tires for the Midget from them last year. Seems that 155-80R13 is not a very popular tire size.
Historically, I've bought from Tire Rack. This most recent purchase was from America's Tire, which is essentially the brick and mortar owner of Tire Rack.
I needed tires right away, and I couldn't wait for a shipment.
I have used them exclusively for buying wheels, several sets. Once I ordered wheels with tires mounted, it was the best mount and balance I’ve ever had. Back then you could buy oem take-offs through them. I’ve found good customer service from them.
One thing I read on a forum recently was about a fellow trying to find Mickey Thompson tires - he’d bought some new locally and found where the mfr had shaved the high points off the tread to make the tire round. That had to go through 9 tires to get 3 other good ones. Somehow in the conversation it came up that “tire rack does not accept tires that have been shaved by the mfr to compensate for defects.” If that’s true, then that QA process helps ensure the customer gets a better product.
Also, I really wanted to like Mickey Thompson - seems they have taken some hits since coming under Goodyear ownership?
One thing I read on a forum recently was about a fellow trying to find Mickey Thompson tires - he’d bought some new locally and found where the mfr had shaved the high points off the tread to make the tire round. That had to go through 9 tires to get 3 other good ones. Somehow in the conversation it came up that “tire rack does not accept tires that have been shaved by the mfr to compensate for defects.” If that’s true, then that QA process helps ensure the customer gets a better product.
Also, I really wanted to like Mickey Thompson - seems they have taken some hits since coming under Goodyear ownership?
I think older stock has great deals. Friend from Canada wanted winters for his Tesla Model S and got great deal delivered to my home in US
I have the availability to use a buddy's tire rack account, and pick up in DE (no sales tax), so really low prices overall. But Tire rack will only swap out tires if you have an issue. Will not outright refund if you have already mounted it. But how do you know if tire will have a problem (either/or high road force or vibration in use), unless you mount it first?? I argued this with them, but they never gave me a good answer..
Walmart and Amazon will refund on tires for "whatever" reason. Since my "new" method of buying tires is keep swapping them out until I get very low roadforce #'s, I've been using both of them due to ease of return/refund. Sometimes, I find out NONe of that tire is made very well. So I switch to a different tire...
That said, I still use tire rack sometimes when the $$ are just too good to pass up (big discount on tire sets for say my GT500, which are in the $2600 range for a set, this is a street setup for that car).
This is on sets I know I am ultimately keeping, and don't' want a refund. Tire rack is pretty good about swapping tires until I get one I like. They are not happy about it, but will do it. Their stock is insane at their warehouses. Pic here in DE.
Just so everyone understands:
You are not supposed to use the Hunter RoadForce machines to sort tires. You're supposed to mount new tires, ride them, and if there is a vibration, road force them to determine which might be the offending tire. There is usually only one.
Not only does the Hunter road force machine sometimes give false negatives, vehicles vary as to sensitivity. Tire manufacturers set up specs their tires are supposed to meet and using the Hunter machine increases the cost unnecessarily to the manufacturer. The manufacturer I worked for would measure the returned tires and not give refunds for tires in spec. That means the retailer would have to eat the cost. This is a good way to find yourself without a retailer to buy tires from.
You are not supposed to use the Hunter RoadForce machines to sort tires. You're supposed to mount new tires, ride them, and if there is a vibration, road force them to determine which might be the offending tire. There is usually only one.
Not only does the Hunter road force machine sometimes give false negatives, vehicles vary as to sensitivity. Tire manufacturers set up specs their tires are supposed to meet and using the Hunter machine increases the cost unnecessarily to the manufacturer. The manufacturer I worked for would measure the returned tires and not give refunds for tires in spec. That means the retailer would have to eat the cost. This is a good way to find yourself without a retailer to buy tires from.
My last set of purchased tires came from Tire Rack, delivered to the local Discount Tire shop for installation. They are one company now and Discount Tire is a good installer. That purchase was for a Vredestein Quatrac tire with a 3-peak snowflake rating. Not an easy tire to find, and Tire Rack had a good rebate for this buy.
I'm needing another set for our Honda Pilot (5/32nd remaining tread but 2017 production dates) and wanting another winter rated tire (it's an AWD and we do get snow here) versus a generic all season. Decent all seasons can be had for about $150 for a USA produced Goodyear tire under the Mastercraft label, from Walmart. My direction (from my significant other) is to avoid anything produced in Asia. Based on their Consumer Reports test, I've selected another Vredestein tire--the HiTrac--with excellent snow capabilities. Last November, Tire Rack had them on sale and with a rebate, so their pricing was about $190. I should have done a buy then, and now I'm waiting for that deal to reappear.
I'll pay the extra $50 bucks for the HiTracs (over the USA produced Mastercrafts) and consider that to be a very good deal. But there are very few good deals out there--from Tire Rack or from anybody else. The local shops (with on-line web search engines and in the Honda Pilot size) have nothing but Asian tires below $200. Top tier tires are around $300. Costco and Sams are pretty much the same.
If you're looking for something special, it's very hard to find a good deal on a good tire--from Tire Rack or anybody else.
I'm needing another set for our Honda Pilot (5/32nd remaining tread but 2017 production dates) and wanting another winter rated tire (it's an AWD and we do get snow here) versus a generic all season. Decent all seasons can be had for about $150 for a USA produced Goodyear tire under the Mastercraft label, from Walmart. My direction (from my significant other) is to avoid anything produced in Asia. Based on their Consumer Reports test, I've selected another Vredestein tire--the HiTrac--with excellent snow capabilities. Last November, Tire Rack had them on sale and with a rebate, so their pricing was about $190. I should have done a buy then, and now I'm waiting for that deal to reappear.
I'll pay the extra $50 bucks for the HiTracs (over the USA produced Mastercrafts) and consider that to be a very good deal. But there are very few good deals out there--from Tire Rack or from anybody else. The local shops (with on-line web search engines and in the Honda Pilot size) have nothing but Asian tires below $200. Top tier tires are around $300. Costco and Sams are pretty much the same.
If you're looking for something special, it's very hard to find a good deal on a good tire--from Tire Rack or anybody else.
Used TR religiously for many years, but ended up changing to Discount Tire when they started sponsoring a favorite driver of mine and thought I would support them. Prices were decent and customer service was top notch. The last 2 sets I bought from VW dealer in one of the semi annual Buy 3 get 4th for $1 promotions. Their prices for the tires were right in line with both Tire Rack and Discount Tire even before you considered getting a 4th one for $1. They charged a little more for mounting and balancing, but still saved nearly $200. I did find it was important to shop around as the dealers had different prices from one to another.
My problem with TR is that they don't sell for any cheaper than other places and they don't sell the good deal tires if you are not loyal to any brand. These days I just go to American Tires and have them price match the deal I found online (usually Walmart) instead.
Just picked these up from Tire Rack. 235/45/18 for what I thought was a deal. Ordered on 2/15 and arrived on 2/17 via UPS.
I buy from Discount Tire, but have long used TR as a research resource. That true on a recent decision to purchase a set of Pirrelli Scorpian AS Plus 3. Reading the testing reviews there a major factor in purchase decision. But, with DT b&m stores around for sales and service after the sale, no point or advantage for me to purchase from TR.
I'm curious, you have Dunn Tire near you correct? DT/AT now owns them so wondering if you've tried them and if so, your opinion of them?
I bought my Michelin Primacy LTX from TR and can say in confidence that it is not worth it, I am $520 into endless tire re-balances, diagnostics at 4 different shops, one shop says that another did not balance properly on two Roadforce Balancers one of the them is Hunter Elite but regardless I have a vibration at 63-73MPH that I did not not have before these tires. Like I said, if I bought from Discount Tire, likely, they would at least consider trying to rule out tires as a possible culprit, Tire Rack tells me your problem is the install, installers are telling me it is something else or out of round tires, endless loop with no way to return the tires or get them exchanged. Michelin as many may know, if you have a problem with vibrations send you packing as their acceptable roadforce is up to 40! It is possible that I have issues somewhere in the driveline but I did not have them before these 4 Michelins were mounted 1 months ago.
And hence why I will continue to to use "Road Force" numbers as one of my tools.
I spent 3 months getting rid of (95% anyway) the massive vibration on my brand new F250.
Ford would not fix it. These were General Grabber LT's........
I used seat of the pants and this Ap to measure vib's.
This is "exaggerated" from my previous Mustang a while back, proving flat spotting is real.
(many "still argue" it is not)..... This was after driving for 8 minutes, on a highway, back to back.
I live less than 1 mile from a 65 MPH highway, so easy for me to test "before".........
Of course like anything, the RF machine is not perfect. But it was very consistent for me.
As an example. Pretty much everyone knows with 3/4-1 tons, to reduce air pressure
from factory spec's when unloaded for better ride quality. But here is some "proof"
Same exact tire..... (this was the spare, which RF'd ironically, WAY better than all 4
factory mounts)
Since I have 12 vehicles, 3 trailers (even a bobcat
), I buy a crap ton of tires.Have had my own Hunter balancer and Atlas tire machine for close to 30 years.
Got RF machine about 5 years ago now. My experience many times is just like
this first poster here.
I have the time/ability/equipment to
Balance wheel without tire
Measure wheel runout at bead mounting surface
Balance wheel or wheel/tire on 2 separate Hunter machines
Measure hub and/or rotor runout on car
Measure runout of OD of tire itself (crudely due to tire tread, but still)
"eyeball" tire runout on older Hunter balancer, which never had tire hood.
RF tire (complete FULL RF procedure if desired).
Check if centering is correct in mounting wheel on balancer (RF machines do this)
Run vibration ap on vehicle (and interpret results, been ME for NAVY for 41 years, involved
in and even wrote testing procedures for vibration tests for military equipment).
This problem is so prevalent, I'm thinking about starting a side business to diagnose
(and at least give it a real true faith effort) and eliminate/drastically reduce, tire/wheel
induced vibrations on "problem" cars. Retire in 3 months, have equipment/time/knowledge.
I'm not a people person and almost always think I'm right, so that whole deal might not
work out too well.
Here's my understanding about tire harmonics.
Vehicles react strongly to 1st harmonics and balance behaves like a first harmonic.
Vehicle suspensions have resonance reactions to 1st harmonic at about 50 mph to 70 mph. That means the suspension should react to 2nd harmonics in the 25 to 35 mph range.
Typically, the amplitude of tire 2nd harmonics are a fraction of the first harmonics (same with 3rd, 4th, etc.), making it very unlikely that the higher tire harmonics are causing objectionable vibrations.
EXCEPT: There are things in the vehicle that will vibrate in sympathy to tire vibrations, making the tire vibrations seem like the cause. It's the job of the NVH group within a car manufacturer to find and eliminate those - EXCEPT they don't always get enough time to find them all for all the permutations of all the vehicles made.
I have seen repeatedly that certain car models and certain options are sensitive to tire vibrations and it's not always the first harmonic. However, once whatever it is that is vibrating in sympathy gets changed so its resonant frequency is different, the problem disappears. The common denominator here seems to be the higher natural resonances stiffer chassis' have. That is every time a car manufacturer stiffens the chassis so that the car handles better, a vibration problem related to tire vibrations is created. It takes time, but the vehicle manufacturer eventually figure it out. Kudos to the NVH guys who get no credit when the prevent a problem but get criticized if they don't.
Vehicles react strongly to 1st harmonics and balance behaves like a first harmonic.
Vehicle suspensions have resonance reactions to 1st harmonic at about 50 mph to 70 mph. That means the suspension should react to 2nd harmonics in the 25 to 35 mph range.
Typically, the amplitude of tire 2nd harmonics are a fraction of the first harmonics (same with 3rd, 4th, etc.), making it very unlikely that the higher tire harmonics are causing objectionable vibrations.
EXCEPT: There are things in the vehicle that will vibrate in sympathy to tire vibrations, making the tire vibrations seem like the cause. It's the job of the NVH group within a car manufacturer to find and eliminate those - EXCEPT they don't always get enough time to find them all for all the permutations of all the vehicles made.
I have seen repeatedly that certain car models and certain options are sensitive to tire vibrations and it's not always the first harmonic. However, once whatever it is that is vibrating in sympathy gets changed so its resonant frequency is different, the problem disappears. The common denominator here seems to be the higher natural resonances stiffer chassis' have. That is every time a car manufacturer stiffens the chassis so that the car handles better, a vibration problem related to tire vibrations is created. It takes time, but the vehicle manufacturer eventually figure it out. Kudos to the NVH guys who get no credit when the prevent a problem but get criticized if they don't.
Why do you have it set up for sticker weights on a steel wheel? You’ll get a better balance with clip/hammer on weights on the outer lip. Not that this affects road force, but heavy:big wheels and tires with a lip on the wheel I’d definitely be putting clip ons if I was worried about the quality and accuracy of the balance.And hence why I will continue to to use "Road Force" numbers as one of my tools.
I spent 3 months getting rid of (95% anyway) the massive vibration on my brand new F250.
Ford would not fix it. These were General Grabber LT's........
I used seat of the pants and this Ap to measure vib's.
This is "exaggerated" from my previous Mustang a while back, proving flat spotting is real.
(many "still argue" it is not)..... This was after driving for 8 minutes, on a highway, back to back.
I live less than 1 mile from a 65 MPH highway, so easy for me to test "before".........
Of course like anything, the RF machine is not perfect. But it was very consistent for me.
As an example. Pretty much everyone knows with 3/4-1 tons, to reduce air pressure
from factory spec's when unloaded for better ride quality. But here is some "proof"
Same exact tire..... (this was the spare, which RF'd ironically, WAY better than all 4
factory mounts)
Since I have 12 vehicles, 3 trailers (even a bobcat
Have had my own Hunter balancer and Atlas tire machine for close to 30 years.
Got RF machine about 5 years ago now. My experience many times is just like
this first poster here.
I have the time/ability/equipment to
Balance wheel without tire
Measure wheel runout at bead mounting surface
Balance wheel or wheel/tire on 2 separate Hunter machines
Measure hub and/or rotor runout on car
Measure runout of OD of tire itself (crudely due to tire tread, but still)
"eyeball" tire runout on older Hunter balancer, which never had tire hood.
RF tire (complete FULL RF procedure if desired).
Check if centering is correct in mounting wheel on balancer (RF machines do this)
Run vibration ap on vehicle (and interpret results, been ME for NAVY for 41 years, involved
in and even wrote testing procedures for vibration tests for military equipment).
This problem is so prevalent, I'm thinking about starting a side business to diagnose
(and at least give it a real true faith effort) and eliminate/drastically reduce, tire/wheel
induced vibrations on "problem" cars. Retire in 3 months, have equipment/time/knowledge.
I'm not a people person and almost always think I'm right, so that whole deal might not
work out too well.
Oh and take al
Oh and I wanted to point out something in the above photo - the green sticker on the wheel. That's the way Ford has the wheel manufacturer matk the low point of the wheel. Notice it is not at the valve hole.
Also notice the big red dot on the sidewall of the tire. That is likely the high point of the radial 1st harmonic - and how it's really close to the green sticker. That's why this assembly has only 20 pounds of road force even though it's an LT tire and wheel.
Oh and I wanted to point out something in the above photo - the green sticker on the wheel. That's the way Ford has the wheel manufacturer matk the low point of the wheel. Notice it is not at the valve hole.
Also notice the big red dot on the sidewall of the tire. That is likely the high point of the radial 1st harmonic - and how it's really close to the green sticker. That's why this assembly has only 20 pounds of road force even though it's an LT tire and wheel.
I don’t buy my tires from Costco I have bought the same tires for less money from tire rack had them shipped to discount tire for mounting and balance 25 a tire. Not s big deal for me.
- Joined
- Jan 16, 2023
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- Joined
- Jan 16, 2023
- Messages
- 761
I miss DTD…especially when they didn’t change sales tax….plus free shipping
I bought many off road tire/wheel packages
Bolt them on the day of…sell the old tires/wheels for $300
Winner winner
I bought many off road tire/wheel packages
Bolt them on the day of…sell the old tires/wheels for $300
Winner winner
