Does a 20w protect well enough for heavy towing?

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Originally Posted By: Bryanccfshr
There is more to protection than kinematic viscosity that is beyond most of us amateurs on this board.

I think the a 5w20 or 0w20 will work great in your application. With Toyota's outstanding cooling capacity and the coolant to oil heat exchanger your oil temperature is more controlled than most other light truck applications. Under heavy load that 20 wt will be as viscous as a 30 wt in a similar application without that Toyota oil cooler because the oil will remain controlled by the coolant temperature. That and the sump capacity, aluminum block and heads, the multiple oil squirters etc. make running a 20 wt as recommended a simple decision.


This is the whole reason i have continued to use the 20w. I will probably just end up sticking to the oem requirements.

I wouldn't be a bit surprised if my used oil analysis comes back saying your motor is still in the break in process which is the reason the oil looks spent (15k). Going off the other tundra used oil analysis, i can see this being the case. His had 22k miles and was told the break in process is subsidizing now, and the engine is wearing nicely. BUT..... his driving conditions are much much different than mine with virtually no towing. So we'll have to wait and see i guess.

Thanks for your response.
 
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IIRC, someone posted a used oil analysis or two with 20wt oil where they did some towing....a Dodge pickup? It's been a while. Do a used oil analysis search in that forum.
 
I believe that it shouldn't be an issue as long as you don't operate the engine at low rpms when heavily loaded.
Higher rpm mean more flow, which means better protection. Is it automatic?
 
Originally Posted By: mesastoura
I believe that it shouldn't be an issue as long as you don't operate the engine at low rpms when heavily loaded.
Higher rpm mean more flow, which means better protection. Is it automatic?


The truck tows my 7500lb 5th wheel at 2700 rpm's in 5th on the flat.

Is that too low of rpm's?

Yes, it's a 6-speed auto w/ tow haul mode.
 
Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
What does Toyota say? I would imagine that if they spec a 20 grade for all conditions, that the engine is well buffered for using it. Much like a SBC is fine using 5w30 whether cruising along empty ..or towing fully loaded up 6% grades.
Gary what is well buffered?
 
Originally Posted By: Bryanccfshr
Probably refering to design of the engine along wit cooling capacity and sump capacity that makes running 5w20 not stressfull at all.


Yes ..at least not compromising protection. It may alter the oil's life.
 
Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
Originally Posted By: Bryanccfshr
Probably refering to design of the engine along wit cooling capacity and sump capacity that makes running 5w20 not stressfull at all.


Yes ..at least not compromising protection. It may alter the oil's life.


This is what i'm afraid of.

What would you venture to say is a safe OCI?
Or should i rely strictly on UOA data?
 
You should rely on the OEM recommendations and then verify with a used oil analysis to see how well those recommendations work ..mainly for your peace of mind.

You're really nervous here, aren't you?
55.gif
Relax. You've got a great engine in a great chassis.
 
Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
You should rely on the OEM recommendations and then verify with a used oil analysis to see how well those recommendations work ..mainly for your peace of mind.

You're really nervous here, aren't you?
55.gif
Relax. You've got a great engine in a great chassis.


Well, the OEM recomends 5/5000 OCI and i'm not going that route, warranty or not. It doesn't make sense to me to change the oil every 6 mos unless i drive 12k miles in that time frame. IMO, it's simply a waste of time and money. I would like to think going the Amsoil route will work for me, but we'll see i guess.

Nervous? Yeah a little just because i'm new to this extended OCI stuff.I've always changed oil at the 3000 mile mark religously, and after getting info that i'm wasting my money doing so, it's time to take a ride on the wild side.

I don't doubt for a minute about the engine being solid. I've always thought toyota makes one of the best products on the market. I've been a big toyota fan for over 20 years with 14 new vehicles since, and not a hiccup on one to date. That is until my 07 tundra lost a camshaft at 3k miles and actually left me stranded. Wow, what a kick in the teeth. It happens i guess. But for me it was the first with their product. I am however, pleased with the way i was treated and will continue to do business with them unless it becomes an ongoing issue.
I was given a 7/100k platinum warranty ($1800) for free, new car rental,2 tanks of gas, $150 AE gift card, brand new complete longblock, as well as great friendly service from corporate.
I am satisfied with that myself.

Sorry....too much blabbing. Back to topic.

Where i'm going extended OCI's, other than watching my used oil analysis, what
other secrets or recomendations are there?
 
Originally Posted By: buster
The Amsoil ASM is one of the most shear stable 20wt oils I've seen.


Good to know.

As shear stable as the ASL 30 wt? Or maybe the SSO 0w30?
 
Quote:
Where i'm going extended OCI's, other than watching my used oil analysis, what
other secrets or recomendations are there?


Nothing to it really. Just get a premium product and verify that it's doing the job that you hired it for under the conditions you subject it to. In extended drains you can get your money's worth out of more expensive filtration. Otherwise it's easy. Just sit back and watch the miles rack up. You'll check your oil more often out of something to do.
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The used oil analysis will let you know one way or the other. Even if (in the unlikely event that) it's less than stellar, it's not going to break anything over one bout of usage. If you want real warm and fuzzy feelings, contact Dyson Analysis (google) for your used oil analysis. Not cheap ..but full of value content.
 
"Well, the OEM recomends 5/5000 OCI and i'm not going that route, warranty or not. It doesn't make sense to me to change the oil every 6 mos unless i drive 12k miles in that time frame. IMO, it's simply a waste of time and money."


????? It's just oil, a fraction of the cost of fuel, depreciation, etc., and even car washes for some. If you have a crummy warranty then throw it away, otherwise get your mind right and get it in proper perspective; it's just oil.
 
Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
Quote:
Where i'm going extended OCI's, other than watching my used oil analysis, what
other secrets or recomendations are there?


Nothing to it really. Just get a premium product and verify that it's doing the job that you hired it for under the conditions you subject it to. In extended drains you can get your money's worth out of more expensive filtration. Otherwise it's easy. Just sit back and watch the miles rack up. You'll check your oil more often out of something to do.
21.gif
The used oil analysis will let you know one way or the other. Even if (in the unlikely event that) it's less than stellar, it's not going to break anything over one bout of usage. If you want real warm and fuzzy feelings, contact Dyson Analysis (google) for your used oil analysis. Not cheap ..but full of value content.


I've felt the amsoil is a premium product, and i hope it will PROVE IT to me over time. Under the conditions i put it thru, hopefully with used oil analysis we can determine which one will work the best.

AND...safely over a 12-15k OCI?

Speaking of better filtration Gary.......what's the deal with not having a EAO cartridge filter for my truck? I was told from amsoil corporate they're having a hard time with canisters. Mainly for extended 25k+ intervals, with them not being able to perform as well as spin on's.
What's your take on that?

I'm currently waiting on OAL for my analysis. 9 days & counting.

You've been a good help, Thanks
 
Originally Posted By: 1sttruck
"Well, the OEM recomends 5/5000 OCI and i'm not going that route, warranty or not. It doesn't make sense to me to change the oil every 6 mos unless i drive 12k miles in that time frame. IMO, it's simply a waste of time and money."


????? It's just oil, a fraction of the cost of fuel, depreciation, etc., and even car washes for some. If you have a crummy warranty then throw it away, otherwise get your mind right and get it in proper perspective; it's just oil.


Oil is definately a fraction of fuel costs, that's for sure. My warranty is actually pretty good, but i AM taking the risk with extended OCI's.
I feel i've got the proper perspective on oil. Why change it at 5k if it's still good? Why not spend a little more for a quality oil that will safely go 10K? Or even 15k?

It's just oil?

It's a lot of the reason why this country's in a world of hurt right now with the economy. Why not conserve a little?

I own/manage a small company that has a fleet of 8 vehicles that we maintain ourselves. So yearly OCI's only makes sense to me.
 
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