I am running Valvoline Advance Synthetic with Maxlife which I have 19k at this time. High Mileage oil specs are the same as non high mileage oil (SP) so no damages.
Do I need a high milage oil?
- Thread starter EMT_760
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My older F150 went it's entire life on M1, 10W-30, 355,000 miles. At which point it still ran perfectly and used no oil. Transmission failed and the truck was given away.
Your sacrificing engine efficiency benefits for extra wear protection and seal swelling you don’t actually need. It’s like adding a layer of carnauba wax on top of a ceramic coating. You feel good about it because you did something different and added more to your already exceptional layer of protection, but in reality you just wasted time.
What types of oil had been used in the Yaris before you got it?
It has the same engine as my car, the 1.5L.
My car has a clean CARFAX and was in a Toyota shop for regular maintenance up to 108k miles.
Toyota FS oil was most likely what it was fed at the dealer.
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Sounds like a good rule for my Prius too.
I know a guy with 260k on his Prius C and it uses no oil at all, and it was fed Super Tech FS it's whole life.
Good points. HM oil in my Prius C engine would probably cause a drop in my MPGs.
I looked into HM but I'll probably stick to regular FS.
I don't know much about it's 1st 8 years and 125k miles. CarFax showed a few OCs from the dealer early on. So I'm guess some bulk 5/30 conventional.....probably Valvoline, as that seems to be the bulk of choice around here.
After a couple of years CarFax doesn't show much. So I'm guessing quick lube or DIY OCs.
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HM=marketing! No gain or loss.
~11+ cst from Castrol datasheets when other's are 10-10.8cst. Some of Castrol 30 grades hit 12 cst. So, if the price is the same, skip the HM for a euro 0w30 or 5w30 and get that 11.5-12.5cst oil.
I'd skip the overhyped M1 filter and use a synth media filter, oversized if there is diameter or length room.
When an oil holds an API spec, its extra this and that means little as there are limitations.
~11+ cst from Castrol datasheets when other's are 10-10.8cst. Some of Castrol 30 grades hit 12 cst. So, if the price is the same, skip the HM for a euro 0w30 or 5w30 and get that 11.5-12.5cst oil.
I'd skip the overhyped M1 filter and use a synth media filter, oversized if there is diameter or length room.
When an oil holds an API spec, its extra this and that means little as there are limitations.
What if I don't like Castrol?
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Use whatever brand of oil you want.
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Oh I intend too. But it's obvious that you don't care for M1 products (which is your prerogative).
I buy all of my oil at Meijer. They stock several brands, but M1 and Valvoline they carry the most variety of and often have them on sale....as well as M1 and Fram Ultra filters. So those are the brands I typically use.
It's just oil. I'm not going to over think it. As for HM being just "marketing"....I think there's enough info around here to counter that to some extent....at least with some brands.
And why would I want to pay a premium for a 0/40 Euro oil, when M1 HM is the same price as vanilla M1 and comes in at nearly a light 40?
M1 ESP line has what you need then ?
I was only half kidding. My current flavors of oil work just fine for me. M1 and Valvoline have everything this ol' simpleton would need.
Umm. The 0w40 Euro car oil is the same price as vanilla Mobil1.
And along with Castrol 0W-40 also available for about the same price as the Mobil 1. Both are a steal in terms of approvals and specifications as long as you're looking for a full SAPS oil.
The first 175k truck got motorcraft 5w20 semi syn. and motorcraft filter. I have just changed to Castrol Full syn HM and a K&N filter and 10-12k or 1 yr change interval. I feel Castrol has a better add package and the filter is an upgrade as well.
I can almost guarantee you that is because of valve stem seals in that engine. HM oils can really help with sealing some gasket leaks and cleaning up sticky piston rings over time, but don’t seem to help at all with valve stem seals. I have great luck with Maxlife HM on several other vehicles. I had the same engine in my Odyssey, same result as you. Good news is, now you know what the issue likely is.
Did you read his post? He said he didn’t know what was used before they owned it.
When You Should Use Start Using a High Mileage Oil
Our cars aren’t alive, but wear and tear takes its toll on our cars’ engines and this tends to start becoming acute at around 75,000 miles.
What post?
In his reply he said "We bought it used and I did know exactly what oils had been used in it's 1st 8 years."
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