Do Defroster Line repairs work?

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Jun 25, 2009
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I'm assuming like simple kits like this Permaxtex Repair Kit work well?

I'm going to be removing rear tint off one of our cars, assuming i can get it off nice and easy, i expect maybe some lines will come with.

I'm thinking its just like a copper wire but in paint form, see if something is broken and reconnect it via paint.

Tint shop is asking for $250 just to remove and they don't guarantee anything. I don't mind paying but i would like a guarantee if i'm paying for "pros" to do it.
 
Yes it is a conductive paint or epoxy of some sort. I used it a few years ago when my daughter put something on the back shelf and it gouged a line. It worked fine.

Usually they specify a maximum length to the repaired area.
 
I'm assuming like simple kits like this Permaxtex Repair Kit work well?

I'm going to be removing rear tint off one of our cars, assuming i can get it off nice and easy, i expect maybe some lines will come with.

I'm thinking its just like a copper wire but in paint form, see if something is broken and reconnect it via paint.

Tint shop is asking for $250 just to remove and they don't guarantee anything. I don't mind paying but i would like a guarantee if i'm paying for "pros" to do it.


Its not something you can guarantee. The glue in certain tints sometimes harden to the point where you just can't get it off any other way than scraping.

I will give you instructions on what is your best shot on getting it off and taking the glue with it.

If you don't have a garage or an indoor place to do it, wait till summer. You're not going to be able to do this outside in Chicago this time of year. Heated garage will be best.

You need:

Big black plastic garbage bag. Cut it open so it is big enough to cover the entire window you're peeling.
Heat gun. No a hairdryer will not work
Regular blue ammonia based windex

Cut your plastic bag into roughly the same shape as the rear window, that will make it easier to deal with. Once that is done, spray down the window on the inside with the windex and immediately put the plastic bag over the entire window. You have to keep the area between the plastic bag and the tint wet with windex the entire time.

Now start heating. Start at the upper edge of the window and keep the heat gun moving. Aim to get about a 12x12 area pretty hot. Make sure that the windex on the inside stays damp, you might have to spray more in there between the bag and tint.

Once you get that section of window good and hot, move back inside, start at the upper corner where you started heating, you should be able to peel the piece of tint back off the window at this point and it should come off easily. GENTLY peel the tint down and spray windex on the glue side of the tint. STOP when you get to an area that is not heated, or the tint stops coming off easily. Windex, heat, repeat.

This is the #1 best way we've found to get tint off a rear window, leave the lines, and take the glue with it.

If your tint is purple and bubbled, you can try it, but it probably isn't going to work. The more bubbles and fading the tint has, the harder the glue has become and the weaker the plastic layer is. These are the cars that are complete nightmares to peel and end up having to be scraped.

--Edit--

You can probably also use a garment steamer, but it will probably take much longer.

--Edit----Edit--

You don't need the glass to be smoking hot. Summer afternoon in the sun hot should be sufficient. Here in GA we can peel tint outside in the sun during the summer, there's enough heat for that.

Although it a whole lot more comfy in an AC'ed shop.
 
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I removed the tint on a used car by using a steam gun; it worked GREAT for removing the tint film from the rear window and never damaged the defrost lines.
The key was to work slowly and let the film give way on its own pace; don't rush it.
It was summer at the time I did this; not sure how well it would work if the window was cold.
 
And just in case... the Permatex kit works great, just closely follow the directions..
 
That’s a great technique, both heat and ammonia. Note if using steam, which I’ve used and works quite well, protect the headliner.
 
I used a silver conductive pen to repair an aluminum trace that had been torn, on my Carver Amazing Loudspeaker ribbon section, 5 or 6 years ago.
 
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