Ditching the whole synthetic rave...

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Check the owner's manual service schedule.

You should be able to run the cheapest dino, as long as it meets the API/ILSAC specs recommended for the vehicle, for the duration of your maintenance schedule.

But yea, any decent dino should be able to take you 5-6k OCIs....under "normal" driving circumstances.

During the winter though you may need to let the car run longer, etc. so you don't get condensation in the oil from the combination of cold starts and short trips (if the vehicle isn't getting fully warmed up).
 
Big Kat - For you, costs and time are the factors.
You will also have the added flushing with dino.
Sales change things a lot - they can really skew your projected results.
I am a dino /semi synth user.
Full synths are wonderful, but do your own math for your own conclusions.
 
I guess if i find syn on sale with no rebates ill grab it. I wish I would of had more $$ when the wal mart in ottumwa had PP $12.00 for 5qts.
 
Originally Posted By: brsmith


Since the Corolla in question is in Iowa, the winters there warrant synthetic.

I am from the Quad Cities and it can get between -15*F to -20*F.




I'm from Iowa and, for the past 48 years have never used a synthetic oil. I've had cars start in those temperatures without any problems, and without the added cost of a synthetic. Especially over the last 10-15 years conventional oils have closed the gap further.

If there is a valid reason to use a synthetic then do so. But claiming that a maintained Corolla (or any other brand) engine warrants the use of a synthetic just because of an Iowa winter is rubbish.

If there were a grain of truth behind your claim then I'd see non-starting, bulk dino oil cars everywhere around here each winter morning, and that's simply not the case.

I even start my 65 year old 6 volt tractors using 15w40 when it's -15 or -20 out with no problems.
 
Originally Posted By: Pop_Rivit

I even start my 65 year old 6 volt tractors using 15W-40 when it's -15 or -20 out with no problems.

I call B.S! i would LOVE to see that!
 
Originally Posted By: Mark72
"Ditching the whole synthetic rave.."

Now you all must know I like this thread :)
I think too many of you feel you are getting something better, or gaining something when you aren't. And I know many of you think my opinion stinks, but do you really think these oil companies are going to tell you that conventional oil does a superb job at making any vehicle last just as long as any synthetic can? I doubt that.


Agreed. Synthetic has a place, but with the quality of most modern conventional oils it's become a marketing ploy that only separates more cash from the masses.
 
Originally Posted By: Mark72
"Ditching the whole synthetic rave.."

Now you all must know I like this thread :)
I think too many of you feel you are getting something better, or gaining something when you aren't. And I know many of you think my opinion stinks, but do you really think these oil companies are going to tell you that conventional oil does a superb job at making any vehicle last just as long as any synthetic can? I doubt that.


I agree with myself
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Originally Posted By: Jason Adcock
My former '07 Corolla with the 1ZZ-FE loved conventional Havoline 5w30.


Jason, were you ever on TN?
 
Originally Posted By: daman
Originally Posted By: Pop_Rivit

I even start my 65 year old 6 volt tractors using 15W-40 when it's -15 or -20 out with no problems.

I call B.S! i would LOVE to see that!


+1!

Just throw a qt of 15W40 in your freezer over night (which is zero F) and see how well it pours in the morning. As for -20 F, forget about it, it's so thick it's practically a solid.
 
I like my synthetic oil, but like Bill in Utah says......a quality dyno oil at a reasonalbe OCI, which 5K in the corola is, they (Bill and Big_Kat) are going to see the rest of their vehicle fall apart around the motor LONG before they need even think about a lube type failure with the motor.
The corola is a very good vehicle and with proper maintenance, it is going to last a very long time, short of getting demolished in a accident.

I have not read anything on this forum about any issue with Pennzoil Yellow Bottle......and it is mentioned enough that most everyone knows it by PYB.
Correct me if I am wrong on that.....maybe I missed something.
Some like to pick up oil on sale......some (like me) like to stick with 1 oil, unless we decide to try something else.

Conventional oil has come a LONG way since the '70's.......and we are running lighter oils then what we often did back then.
So, a conventional 5w30 oil is NOT going to turn into a solid at 20 below zero (F), and I have started a few under those conditions in my past.

Again, this is coming from a current synthetic oil user......
 
Would castrol edge at an ~8,000 mile intraval with a P1 or quaker state filter be "ok"
 
Being in Iowa,do you have any Orscheln Farm stores nearby? They usually have a decent price on TropArctic, which is about the same as MC & Kendall. Semi synthetic proven performer.
 
I dunno if the mpg w/syn oil applies after it's been in the engine 6000 miles compared to fresh dino oil with new friction modifiers.

Synth costs 2x dino, you could change dino 2x as often and get a better result. Engine deposits, mpg and even cold cranking is better with fresh dino oil.
 
Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie
I dunno if the mpg w/syn oil applies after it's been in the engine 6000 miles compared to fresh dino oil with new friction modifiers.

Synth costs 2x dino, you could change dino 2x as often and get a better result. Engine deposits, mpg and even cold cranking is better with fresh dino oil.


Have you considered writing for a fiction magazine?
shocked2.gif


This is speculation (pertaining to deposits, mpg, cold weather performance) until some concrete evidence is shown.
 
Originally Posted By: webfors
Like everyone else here I was stuck on syns for a decade, or longer...

With regular maintenance with the cheapest oil you can buy the engine in your car will outlast *everything* else. The lube you choose makes little difference.

After 4 years on bitog that's what I've learned, hence why I now use conventional in my subaru.


Second that. Same lesson I have learned from watching UOA's, etc. No need for Syns in the everyday driver.

Originally Posted By: GMBoy
...there are still worthwhile reasons to stick with synthetics even with non-extended drains.

1.) Better cold flow for cold startups.
Most modern dino's have the same pour point as their synthetic counterparts
2.) Much better at handling high temps.
No documented proof to support this
3.) Possibly a wee bit better MPG's
After tracking the MPG in both of my cars over a year period (6 month syn, 6 month dino), they average 1-1.5 MPG better with PYB, than with PP. And yes, I track it in a piece of auto maintenance software everytime I fill up, same gas station, etc. I would have called it a fluke if it was 1 car, but both are averaging about the same increase. I became curious about this because the debate over Aveo MPG is fierce elsewhere on the internet as the car should do better than it does. Most Aveo owners reported their best MPG with GTX, so I setup conditions to test this using PYB, and brought the Vue along for the ride.
4.) Syn lubes are not much more in price than dino at W-Mart.
PP - $20.50, M1 - $23.50, PYB -$12.50, MC5000 - $11.00, so almost double on all accounts
5.) An extra margin of safety - isn't that worth a few dollars?
Speculation only

Just saying...


Originally Posted By: AuthorEditor
My thinking is this. Let's say you like an OCI of around 6000 miles and you average 30 mpg in your Corolla. If you get an extra 3% mileage with synthetic that's a savings of around 6 gallons of gas for the OCI, or around $18 at today's prices. So you've more than paid for the synthetic just on gas savings alone, with the extra potential protection as a bonus. Even if the savings is only 1% in mileage (giving you 30.3 mpg) you would save 2 gallons of gas, or $6, which would probably make the synthetic a break even if you're getting something like PP at WalMart for $20.50. If you feel you can extend your OCI with a synthetic the savings can really add up, plus you spend less weekend time under the car changing oil, which is my main beef with short OCIs.

Originally Posted By: AuthorEditor
Quote:
3% MPG impovement? Not a chance. Protection is the same.

Says you, despite abundant evidence the other way. As I said earlier, just a 1% improvement in mpg would make synthetic break even in cost with dino, and you'd still have the benefits of better cold flow (less wear at start up), better extreme heat resistance, and better cleaning properties, even if you don't believe that synthetics provide superior protection through better lubrication. It's a no brainer.


See the above bolded text response. Only gain for me was with dino after a year of tracking MPG on either of my cars, And the no brainer to me is to get those contaminants out of the engine frequently.

Originally Posted By: AuthorEditor
OK, if you don't believe there is any mpg or wear and tear savings with synthetic, how about modestly increasing your OCI from say 5000 to 7500?


Both of our cars can go safely to 7500 on dino, according to the OLM in one and the owners manual of the other.

Originally Posted By: daman
Originally Posted By: Pop_Rivit

I even start my 65 year old 6 volt tractors using 15W-40 when it's -15 or -20 out with no problems.

I call B.S! i would LOVE to see that!


Check in with the Europeans who use that grade regularly through many different temps.

Originally Posted By: Pop_Rivit
Synthetic has a place, but with the quality of most modern conventional oils it's become a marketing ploy that only separates more cash from the masses.


Agreed, synth has it's place in very high end applications, but the everyday driver is wasting money IMO.

Originally Posted By: tgw323
Being in Iowa,do you have any Orscheln Farm stores nearby? They usually have a decent price on TropArctic, which is about the same as MC & Kendall. Semi synthetic proven performer.

Great oil, if it can be had for a reasonable price. I miss it now that Wally's doesn't have it at $1.68 a quart anymore.

Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie
I dunno if the mpg w/syn oil applies after it's been in the engine 6000 miles compared to fresh dino oil with new friction modifiers.
Synth costs 2x dino, you could change dino 2x as often and get a better result. Engine deposits, mpg and even cold cranking is better with fresh dino oil.


I know others do well with synth, but I agree that getting the junk out regularly is a necessity. Besides, I like changing the oil!
 
Originally Posted By: jeepman

Originally Posted By: daman
Originally Posted By: Pop_Rivit

I even start my 65 year old 6 volt tractors using 15W-40 when it's -15 or -20 out with no problems.

I call B.S! i would LOVE to see that!


Check in with the Europeans who use that grade regularly through many different temps.

I don't care what the Europeans say man, i farm i've been around many 6v tractors and there a joke!! h ell your lucky to get them started on a 80 degree day let alone 20 below zero with a 15w40!!! LMAO!,, give it up you'll never convince me been there done that, call B.S
 
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