Ditching the whole synthetic rave...

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Originally Posted By: jeepman
Originally Posted By: webfors
Like everyone else here I was stuck on syns for a decade, or longer...

With regular maintenance with the cheapest oil you can buy the engine in your car will outlast *everything* else. The lube you choose makes little difference.

After 4 years on bitog that's what I've learned, hence why I now use conventional in my subaru.


Second that. Same lesson I have learned from watching used oil analysis, etc. No need for Syns in the everyday driver.

Originally Posted By: GMBoy
...there are still worthwhile reasons to stick with synthetics even with non-extended drains.

1.) Better cold flow for cold startups.
Most modern conventional's have the same pour point as their synthetic counterparts
2.) Much better at handling high temps.
No documented proof to support this
3.) Possibly a wee bit better MPG's
After tracking the MPG in both of my cars over a year period (6 month syn, 6 month conventional), they average 1-1.5 MPG better with Pennzoil conventional, than with PP. And yes, I track it in a piece of auto maintenance software everytime I fill up, same gas station, etc. I would have called it a fluke if it was 1 car, but both are averaging about the same increase. I became curious about this because the debate over Aveo MPG is fierce elsewhere on the internet as the car should do better than it does. Most Aveo owners reported their best MPG with GTX, so I setup conditions to test this using Pennzoil conventional, and brought the Vue along for the ride.
4.) Syn lubes are not much more in price than conventional at W-Mart.
PP - $20.50, M1 - $23.50, Pennzoil conventional -$12.50, MC5000 - $11.00, so almost double on all accounts
5.) An extra margin of safety - isn't that worth a few dollars?
Speculation only

Just saying...


Originally Posted By: AuthorEditor
My thinking is this. Let's say you like an OCI of around 6000 miles and you average 30 mpg in your Corolla. If you get an extra 3% mileage with synthetic that's a savings of around 6 gallons of gas for the OCI, or around $18 at today's prices. So you've more than paid for the synthetic just on gas savings alone, with the extra potential protection as a bonus. Even if the savings is only 1% in mileage (giving you 30.3 mpg) you would save 2 gallons of gas, or $6, which would probably make the synthetic a break even if you're getting something like PP at WalMart for $20.50. If you feel you can extend your OCI with a synthetic the savings can really add up, plus you spend less weekend time under the car changing oil, which is my main beef with short OCIs.

Originally Posted By: AuthorEditor
Quote:
3% MPG impovement? Not a chance. Protection is the same.

Says you, despite abundant evidence the other way. As I said earlier, just a 1% improvement in mpg would make synthetic break even in cost with conventional, and you'd still have the benefits of better cold flow (less wear at start up), better extreme heat resistance, and better cleaning properties, even if you don't believe that synthetics provide superior protection through better lubrication. It's a no brainer.


See the above bolded text response. Only gain for me was with conventional after a year of tracking MPG on either of my cars, And the no brainer to me is to get those contaminants out of the engine frequently.

Originally Posted By: AuthorEditor
OK, if you don't believe there is any mpg or wear and tear savings with synthetic, how about modestly increasing your OCI from say 5000 to 7500?


Both of our cars can go safely to 7500 on conventional, according to the OLM in one and the owners manual of the other.

Originally Posted By: daman
Originally Posted By: Pop_Rivit

I even start my 65 year old 6 volt tractors using 15W-40 when it's -15 or -20 out with no problems.

I call B.S! i would LOVE to see that!


Check in with the Europeans who use that grade regularly through many different temps.

Originally Posted By: Pop_Rivit
Synthetic has a place, but with the quality of most modern conventional oils it's become a marketing ploy that only separates more cash from the masses.


Agreed, synthetic has it's place in very high end applications, but the everyday driver is wasting money IMO.

Originally Posted By: tgw323
Being in Iowa,do you have any Orscheln Farm stores nearby? They usually have a decent price on TropArctic, which is about the same as MC & Kendall. Semi synthetic proven performer.

Great oil, if it can be had for a reasonable price. I miss it now that Wally's doesn't have it at $1.68 a quart anymore.

Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie
I dunno if the mpg w/syn oil applies after it's been in the engine 6000 miles compared to fresh conventional oil with new friction modifiers.
Synthetic costs 2x conventional, you could change conventional 2x as often and get a better result. Engine deposits, mpg and even cold cranking is better with fresh conventional oil.


I know others do well with synthetic, but I agree that getting the junk out regularly is a necessity. Besides, I like changing the oil!




Sorry, you're wrong. Synlubes DO and are PROVEN to handle extreme cold and heat better than conventional oil. I've even proven that myself with all of my used oil analysis.
 
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
AuthorEditor said:
3% MPG impovement? ....

I have yet to see apples to apples (i.e same viscosity grade synthetic vs dino) comparison.


When my truck was young but not brand new (after the first 10k miles) I went 10k miles on 5w30 Quaker State and 10k miles on Mobil 1 5w30 (back when it might have really been "synthetic"). I kept good fuel records and changed oil about every 3k miles. There wasn't even .1 mpg difference between the two in my '99 F250 SD V10. I'm not sold on the fuel economy idea for synthetic motor oil. If it happened in your car with equal records, that's great. But, in general, I don't believe it.

Though I haven't tried it, I would be open to the idea of increased mpgs through synthetic transmission fluid and differential lube. I've heard good things about it.
 
Originally Posted By: Mr_Incredible
KrisZ said:
AuthorEditor said:
Quote:
3% MPG impovement? ....

I have yet to see apples to apples (i.e same viscosity grade synthetic vs dino) comparison.


When my truck was young but not brand new (after the first 10k miles) I went 10k miles on 5w30 Quaker State and 10k miles on Mobil 1 5w30 (back when it might have really been "synthetic"). I kept good fuel records and changed oil about every 3k miles. There wasn't even .1 mpg difference between the two in my '99 F250 SD V10. I'm not sold on the fuel economy idea for synthetic motor oil. If it happened in your car with equal records, that's great. But, in general, I don't believe it.

Though I haven't tried it, I would be open to the idea of increased mpgs through synthetic transmission fluid and differential lube. I've heard good things about it.


On the Ram forum there is a guy with a great reputation, he might even be the moderator I can't remember though, but he said that he switched his transmission and differentials with synthetics and increased his mpg by about 1.5 mpg.
 
Originally Posted By: daman
Originally Posted By: jeepman

Originally Posted By: daman
Originally Posted By: Pop_Rivit

I even start my 65 year old 6 volt tractors using 15W-40 when it's -15 or -20 out with no problems.

I call B.S! i would LOVE to see that!


Check in with the Europeans who use that grade regularly through many different temps.

I don't care what the Europeans say man, i farm i've been around many 6v tractors and there a joke!! h ell your lucky to get them started on a 80 degree day let alone 20 below zero with a 15w40!!! LMAO!,, give it up you'll never convince me been there done that, call B.S


The point was not about 6v tractors, but about 15w40 being used with long lasting autos in Europe that see all kinds of different temp swings, and irregular maintenance. Based on that, the 15w40 that the poster stated he was using in his tractor should have no problem turning over even a "joke" of an engine in the scenario he claimed.
 
Originally Posted By: GMBoy
Sorry, you're wrong. Synlubes DO and are PROVEN to handle extreme cold and heat better than conventional oil. I've even proven that myself with all of my used oil analysis.


Based on many used oil analysis posted on this forum, there is not any clear evidence that this is true. Not to start a flame war, but Pennzoil conventional shows better Iron numbers than M1 (M1 is a great oil, just using it as an example) and so on, over 5-7k OCI's. If you have a set of used oil analysis that show the same vehicle using conventional and synthetic over a similar time period with similar driving habits, I'd be interested to see a link if you have one.
 
Originally Posted By: jeepman
Originally Posted By: GMBoy
Sorry, you're wrong. Synlubes DO and are PROVEN to handle extreme cold and heat better than conventional oil. I've even proven that myself with all of my used oil analysis.


Based on many used oil analysis posted on this forum, there is not any clear evidence that this is true. Not to start a flame war, but Pennzoil conventional shows better Iron numbers than M1 (M1 is a great oil, just using it as an example) and so on, over 5-7k OCI's. If you have a set of used oil analysis that show the same vehicle using conventional and synthetic over a similar time period with similar driving habits, I'd be interested to see a link if you have one.



No flame war :) My used oil analysis, for one example, always show a higher flashpoint with syn lube than conventional and this means the oil will burn off as easy and protect more. Atleast that is my interpretation. Also, when you review specs on synlubes over conventional you will see that they flow better when cold and handle high heat better. I do not have a link now (I am at work but will try to locate some data) but the fact is synthetics do protect better at the extremes. Here is one neat fact for you - GM even eliminated the oil cooler on the LT1 Corvette for 1992 because the switch to Mobil 1 allowed them to.

Let's be very clear - I firmly believe any good conventional oil will protect your car/truck - oil has gotten so good now that you're hard pressed to find a "bad" oil. However, I also feel that for some applications (not all) a synthetic oil is a better choice and will always offer a bit of a "cushion" or margin of safety. I tow an RV in the Texas heat and I feel better knowing Mobil 1 is in the engine and can handle the heat better than a conventional. If I were towing in a milder climate I may not be as concerned.

This is just my opinion and certainly not the gospel.
 
Is the main difference between a synthetic and conventional just superior internal cleanliness with a synthetic?
 
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Well I just bought Quaker State Truck and SUV syn for $18.00 and have a few longer P1's and a few correct size filters for the Rolla. If walmart keeps Quaker State at the current price a jug and I stock up on Quaker State filters for $2.55 a piece and also go out to 8000-8500 miles per OCI. Then I will stick with syn. Thanks guys for all you opinions/facts. :D
 
Originally Posted By: jeepman

The point was not about 6v tractors, but about 15w40 being used with long lasting autos in Europe that see all kinds of different temp swings, and irregular maintenance. Based on that, the 15w40 that the poster stated he was using in his tractor should have no problem turning over even a "joke" of an engine in the scenario he claimed.

No the point/coment made by me from the start was about Pop_Rivits ludicrous post about all that he mentioned in it.
 
We drive very little maybe 7500 8000 miles a year and I still use PP. I change the oil every 4 months and the extra 40 bucks I spend a year is worth it If we can get 200k out of our 07 2.4 highlander. I thought the same thing last year and used Pennzoil conventional but went back this year to PP....If I use trading in the car at 100k yeah....stick with Dinolube.
 
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Is the main difference between a synthetic and conventional just superior internal cleanliness with a synthetic?


Synthetics will also allow for longer OCI's in most applications (which is an advantage rarely taken to full use by most), and are superior in heavy duty apps as well as turbo and other semi-extreme conditions. My only point was that for 90% of the cars on the road, a good conventional will perform equally as well in these applications. For those who want to spend the extra $$$ and use it at 5k, good for you. I'll personally save my cash for other things, and not reap any adverse side affects from using a good conventional.
 
Originally Posted By: gmh101357
We drive very little maybe 7500 8000 miles a year and I still use PP. I change the oil every 4 months and the extra 40 bucks I spend a year is worth it If we can get 200k out of our 07 2.4 highlander. I thought the same thing last year and used Pennzoil conventional but went back this year to PP....If I use trading in the car at 100k yeah....stick with Dinolube.


I don't understand this myth that "if I'm getting rid of my car early, then dino is the right way to go". It's as if we are saying that using dino is dooming your car to an early death. I would argue that using the Pennzoil conventional, you would get the same 200k or more from your Highlander, and the car will fall apart in other areas before an engine failure.

Conventional oils are very good and SN GF-5 will prove them even better. They are not a death sentence for your engine. You will get no more miles out of that car with PP, but if it helps you sleep at night, then rock on! Glad you found something for your application that you are comfortable with.
 
My brother's 2008 Honda Accord 5spd has 7,000-8,000 mile oil changes on bulk Mobil Clean 5w20 at the stealership and he has 40,000 miles on the car. Looking into the engine through the oil fill hole reveals spotless engine internals.
 
I'm surprise this thread has gone this far. For 5K-6K I don't see a point of using syn oil. I understand the cold start is better with syn, but I'm sure sure many cars has lasted 300K+ miles with just cheap dino when it's changed at proper OCI, even in extreme winters. If the OP is extending his OC then maybe I can see why going to syn oil is better but this is for 5-6K OCI. My Civic has 80K miles and I switch back and forth from syn and dino all the time and have never seen an increase mileage from using syn.

The way i see it is, my car will get traded in / sold or being totaled well before I see benefits of syn over dino.
 
Originally Posted By: gmh101357
We drive very little maybe 7500 8000 miles a year and I still use PP. I change the oil every 4 months and the extra 40 bucks I spend a year is worth it If we can get 200k out of our 07 2.4 highlander. I thought the same thing last year and used Pennzoil conventional but went back this year to PP....If I use trading in the car at 100k yeah....stick with Dinolube.


Really? At 8k miles per year, that's 25 years to make 200K. I'm just not seeing the vehicle (not the engine) last that long. I would go with a 6 month OCI with dino and be good with it.
 
Quote: "even cold cranking is better with fresh conventional oil."


Compared to synthetic????


NO WAY!!!

ANY conventional 5w30 or 10w30 after -20*F is like rum slush.

I have seen and done the Amsoil dry ice demonstration too many times with about every oil I can find.

Also, the statement is bogus as far changing conventional twice as often and it being better for an engine than synthetic.

I have owned racing engines that I changed the oil after every night of racing with conventional and they didn't last as long as other engines that I changed once a season using synthetic.

In many instances the same engine being freshened and changed to synthetic.

I had a customer who for three years ran conventional in a '57 chevy with an L88 427 and it ran a best of 12.05 no matter what they did to it. They ran Valvoline SAE 50 racing oil.

I talked them into Amsoil 20w-50 Racing oil and sent a case. That weekend and EVERY weekend after: 11.95-11.99.

No, the weather never became cooler and the barometric pressure was identical. The car was ran at the same track every weekend. when the weather became even hotter on a few weekends where the car would drop into the 12 teens, it still was in the 11's on the synthetic.


If conventional was as good, how come every jet engine in the world uses synthetic?

I know, some of you are going to spout off "application" that for the application conventional would be just fine.

Sure, in many cases it probably is, but some people want better than fine.


I believe in lab testing, but also there is real world testing.
 
Jet engines run at least 7 times hotter than any gasoline engine. The engine oil used in jets is vastly different than gasoline engines. Lubricating the bearings in the combustion chamber and rear turbine is quite the job when core temps are 1500-2000 degrees. Jets use synthetics because they have to. Comparing conventional to synthetic using jets is null an void.
 
Originally Posted By: brsmith


If dino was as good, how come every jet engine in the world uses synthetic?



Wow! I can't believe you are actually comparing car engines to jet engines. A jet engine will reach 1,000+ degree is seconds after start up. Does your car do that? The ITT burns 700+ C hours at a time. Next time i'm at work and we need more oil, i'll tell maintenance to come out and put in Mobil or Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 in there and see what happens.
 
Originally Posted By: brsmith
Quote: "even cold cranking is better with fresh conventional oil."


Compared to synthetic????


NO WAY!!!

ANY conventional 5w30 or 10w30 after -20*F is like rum slush.

I have seen and done the Amsoil dry ice demonstration too many times with about every oil I can find.

Also, the statement is bogus as far changing conventional twice as often and it being better for an engine than synthetic.

I have owned racing engines that I changed the oil after every night of racing with conventional and they didn't last as long as other engines that I changed once a season using synthetic.

In many instances the same engine being freshened and changed to synthetic.

I had a customer who for three years ran conventional in a '57 chevy with an L88 427 and it ran a best of 12.05 no matter what they did to it. They ran Valvoline SAE 50 racing oil.

I talked them into Amsoil 20w-50 Racing oil and sent a case. That weekend and EVERY weekend after: 11.95-11.99.

No, the weather never became cooler and the barometric pressure was identical. The car was ran at the same track every weekend. when the weather became even hotter on a few weekends where the car would drop into the 12 teens, it still was in the 11's on the synthetic.


If conventional was as good, how come every jet engine in the world uses synthetic?

I know, some of you are going to spout off "application" that for the application conventional would be just fine.

Sure, in many cases it probably is, but some people want better than fine.


I believe in lab testing, but also there is real world testing.







Are you SERIOUS?
33.gif


Lets review...

The op (and MOST of us) are NOT driving jet engines. Or racing engines.
smirk2.gif


PLENTY of us start our engines WELL below zero using conventional 5w30 oils with no problems. We make hundreds of thousands of miles with no problems PERIOD.

YES it is better to change the oil more often in certain operating conditions to get OUT of garabge and byproducts. Syn oil does NOTHING for those operating conditions.

I would not drop the word "bogus" in posting. Your post had plenty of it. As in racing engines, jet engines and such.
crackmeup2.gif


Amsoil dry ice demo.. Never seen it but you are not doing Amsoil any good bringing it up IMO....

Real world testing? Look around because over 80% of the vehicles around you are PROVING that conventional oils are working...

Bill
 
My Jeep went 225k on Conventional oil, no leaks no issues and the engine even in the dead of winter would start on the first crank of the engine. It sat idle for 2 years, that surprised me and it always ran strong. Synthetic has its place, but I've learned over time, especially here and from members that a good conventional can do just as well at reasonable OCI's.
 
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