Disconnected wire under hood... ?

[SuperFast]

OK! I bought the "Ultra copper" Permatex "Gasketmaker." So have that all ready to go. So i just pulled off ALL the tape (yes, melted duct tape) .. and i discovered a disconnected wire! In abswnce of an immediate photo (I can snap a photo,) the wire is as follows:

Passenger side of engne bay, looking towards drivers side. Right behind the alternator, the wire appears to be a singular wire, with a (partially melted?) two-prong connector. Looking further back on the wire, it appears to be "Green." It then joins the same wiring "tune of wires" that appears to go back to multiple sensors, all jammed in around an "Air check valve" - which is wherei lose track of it. Im not sure what this wire is, where it goes, or what it does.. but its moderately possible it as something to do with SUPER running rich, start/stall, fuelish use, etc (TPS wire? idk!)

I can maybe snap a pic, unless someone knows what this is. 84 Camaro, 2.8L V6 carb's, Auto.

Thanks! And im about to go back to the parts store too, with the "Check valve" so i can measure.. if i buy a fitting, maybe i dot need to "Block it off" with RTV, a penny,, BBS, a pipe cap.. maybe i can get it on as intended with a fitting. What would you do? Block the flow, making it only LOOK functional, but in fact blocked on both sides of "Air check valve"? Or reinstall for air flow, as intended?

Thank you!

Here is that wire. taking pics of "both sides of the carb" within the hour...

Here are the pics of the wire. Its "green" under the wrapping.

 

[Trav]

My first thought is the choke cap wire,check that.If not I will look at some diagrams.

Edit: Any stripes on that wire?I see a green with yellow stripe for the canister solenoid purge valve.

 

[SuperFast]

Originally Posted By: Trav
My first thought is the choke cap wire,check that.If not I will look at some diagrams.

Edit: Any stripes on that wire?I see a green with yellow stripe for the canister solenoid purge valve.


Pics coming now, im uploading the,, and it possibly does, ill get a good up-close pic of te part of the wire i can see and its conenctor. Coming, uploading, thanks so much, hitting upload now, then to post..

 

[SuperFast]

When i looked at the "Front carb flap" (Closest front of car,) it appeared to be "Stuck open." I moved it with my thumb closed, and it just falls open again. Is this what it is supposed to do? And shall i douse my carb with a good soak of Carb and Choke cleaner again?

 

[Trav]

Does that black cap under the blue connector in the last photo have a wire going to it?
If the engine is cold the choke should be closed.
Check the choke pull off's also by applying vacuum to them to make sure they pull in.Second pic down the 2 cans with a hose going to them.

You could clean it a little if it looks dirty down the throttle bores,don't worry to much about the outside.
It doesn't look bad,all the linkages seem free of dirt and grime.

 

[SuperFast]

Originally Posted By: Trav
Does that black cap under the blue connector in the last photo have a wire going to it?
If the engine is cold the choke should be closed.
Check the choke pull off's also by applying vacuum to them to make sure they pull in.Second pic down the 2 cans with a hose going to them.

You could clean it a little if it looks dirty down the throttle bores,don't worry to much about the outside.
It doesn't look bad,all the linkages seem free of dirt and grime.


Thanks
the one in the "Front" (its on the left in the last pic) is still "hanging open" and it moves easily i can close it, the it falls again
ill have tovacuum test it
i will suipply pics of the actual wire, connector, and check if the connector you mention has a wire going to it.

If that one is supposed to "remain closed," have i found the source of a "Car starts and dies" OR super-rich-running issue ?

snapping photos now, will be up shortly. Thank you! (My first carb)

Actually not sure if its showing, thsi pic here. On the left is the "Front" its open unles si close it. Problem there?

 

[Trav]

I have to look at some old old service manuals for the choke specs but yes a choke problem could easily cause a start and die issue and if it gets sucked closed that would run supper rich. I wonder if the chock is even connected?
Does it have any spring pressure at all when you move it with your finger?

 

[SuperFast]

Originally Posted By: Trav
I have to look at some old old service manuals for the choke specs but yes a choke problem could easily cause a start and die issue and if it gets sucked closed that would run supper rich. I wonder if the chock is even connected?
Does it have any spring pressure at all when you move it with your finger?


I have photos to upload.

I can more it freely, and you ask if it has any "resistance" when i move the "front plate" back and forth?

My initial answer would be, "not really" ... hmmmmm.

If only i could video this for you. As to front plate movement, it does this with no resistance. Thought it wasnt supposed to have any?

Uploading now, will post when its up...

i ALSO BOUGHT SOME cARB AND cHOKE CLEANER. iF IT DIESNT HAVE ANY PRESSURE/RESISTANCE, WHAT ARE YOU SUSPECTING? I ACTUALLLY MOVED THE PLATE TO THE "OPEN" AND "cLOSED" POSITIONS WITH MY FINGER SON THE INKAGE, NOT THE PALTE ITSELF. iF THERE WAS AN UPWARD SUCTIONING FORCE, OR A BLOWING FORCE FROM BELOW, IM SURE IT WOULD PUSH IT, --- i am sorry you must please pardon my finger slipped onto the caps key im not shouting at you. .. i do not know if that is normal! NExt week i can take a video.

pics of "Closed" and "open," i did this with my finger on the linkage, not the plate itself. What shall i look for ?

Oh, and Edit (Trav It runs OBSCENELY RICH I smell GAS from under the hood sometimes when the car sits.

 

[electrolover]

i think you should bite the bullet and take it to a shop. they wont charge you to look at it. you are probably going to need it kitted "rebuilt"
its extremely hard to diagnose a car over the internet.

 

[electrolover]

i think i can see the choke spring assy right there. its round and has a black cap on it. its under the light blue connector in the pic. look to see if its hooked up

i could be wrong its hard to make out from the pic. looks like its on the drvers side

 

[onion]

I agree with electro here. I don't know the back story on this thread, but that connector looks like the one that goes to an electric choke. Or an oxygen sensor. But more likely the former.

 

[Trav]

I'm thinking the linkage may not be connected in the choke housing or the choke cap has been removed at some point and put back with the spring in front of the linkage arm instead of behind it.

Here is what to check.
The black round cap is held on by 3 screws with long washers.
Remove them carefully then close the choke by hand.
Replace the cap with the spring under the linkage arm and tighten the screws to hold the cover in place but not fully tightened just yet.

There is a mark on the black covers outer edge,align this with the mid point marking on the housing,check the resistance,if it feels very light turn it a little to increase,if it feels tight turn it back.
It should snap shut will a little pressure on a cold engine.


There is a possibility that GM used rivets instead of screws.
In this case they need to have the heads drilled off and replaced with screws (available at the dealer if you don't know what you need).
Not knowing how much skill you have with these thinks if they are riveted it maybe best to take it to a shop.

 

[eljefino]

I don't know if you have a two barrel carb or which barrel that hangy choke operates. If that's the secondary it only breathes during hard acelleration.

Try this:

Get the car out for a good long drive, good and hot, running right, then shut it down and take the air cleaner off.

Come back when it's cold. Look inside the chokes should be off eg not blocking things.

Grab the throttle cable and give it a little tug like you hit the gas. This should set the choke eg put it on.

Now as long as you're looking at it open the gas all the way, there should be something that opens the choke at wide open throttle.

Start her up and let it warm up; within a couple minutes occasionally blipping the gas the choke should pull itself off. The electric wire is part of a heater that helps this happen sooner.

The throttle cable should directly operate one butterfly on one side of the carb, this is your main. The secondary opens near WOT either by vacuum or by a linkage. If this is flaky this could be the reason you are sometimes peeling out and sometimes not.

 

[SuperFast]

Originally Posted By: electrolover

i think i can see the choke spring assy right there. its round and has a black cap on it. its under the light blue connector in the pic. look to see if its hooked up

i could be wrong its hard to make out from the pic. looks like its on the drvers side


I DID find a "pin hook" that was POPPED OUT, and now the front plate SEEMS to stay MORE CLOSED! And upon further tinkering, i found it DOES slide into a "Vacuum thing" somehow.

Shop? Hmmmmmm
well i DO need the lower hose..

trying my hand at putting a fitting into new "Air check valve.."

Mobile Mechanic or shop if popping that "Pin hook" ? back on part of the passenger side of the carb and now the front plate stays more closed.. didnt do the trick.

 

[electrolover]

i just wanna come out and say it. that is the worst two barrel chev every used in my opinion. its a weird design, most two barrel carbs are just two up front with no rear!

if it were my car i would put a gm performance parts dual plane 4 barrel intake on it with a holley 390 cfm 4 barrel carb. with headers of coarse! finding a distributor thats not computer controlled might be a pain.

 

[SuperFast]

Originally Posted By: electrolover
i just wanna come out and say it. that is the worst two barrel chev every used in my opinion. its a weird design, most two barrel carbs are just two up front with no rear!

if it were my car i would put a gm performance parts dual plane 4 barrel intake on it with a holley 390 cfm 4 barrel carb. with headers of coarse! finding a distributor thats not computer controlled might be a pain.


Funny you should mention, because i FOUND a $400 "Holley' VariaJet carb, and if i found someone to "put it on there.." oh baby

Did you read about my "Disconnected hook"? the one in the "Front"" (closest front of hood) seems to be more CLOSED now, it still moves, and if its supposed to "move" at WOT, i DID see a weird "Vacuum slider" i was able to push part f it in. There is linkage that comes around the front, i heard a pumping noise as i pushed it back/forth, and i equated it with throttle/gas.

it is just maybe, MAYBE possible that me putting that "disconnected pin hook" back in tha tnow has the front one more closed than open will solve things? I bought a can carb/choke cleaner too.

I bought "Permatex Ultimate Copper" gasketmaker too, for if i try to get a NEW check valve (they dont cost all that much, mine is likely dead, not even gonna try to put it back in) into te remaining air tubing, maybe i dont NEED to plug it up.. jsut find a fitting for the snapped-off bolt, Sopper RTV it, let it sit 24-48 hours, fire her up!

in warm Cali too? Oh yea, that should be nice.

(use it as a threadlocker, over fitting, in pipe, into check valve, seal it up, etc. Done.)

I wish i could fire it up, but i must replace lwoer hose. Will likely leave two bottles of a flushing agent in for a week, then siphon out, refill with water, run, siphon out.. thre or four times, THEn add antifreeze

As to my carb, dont know. Im MORE wondering how to get that "onnector" on, since everyone seems to agree its for an "Eellectric choke" wherever that connecter is, it appears melted. What to do?

Thanks!!!!!!

 

[onion]

I'm not familiar with that particular carburetor. But on most carburetors there will be a heating element built into the assembly with the bi-metal spring. Usually a round looking thingy on the side of the carburetter... often with a black plastic cover- and that's probably where that now-melted connector used to plug in.

Normally there's just one wire going to the heating element. It's been a LONG time since I messed with one of these, but I think that an ordinary female spade connector might just work. If not, some of your better auto-parts stores can match up connectors... but that one's going to be tough. And you won't find it at Autozone or the like.

I think it's pretty likely that this is the cause of your 'sticking' choke.

 

[electrolover]

verijet? do you mean a rodchester quadrajet? if so that WAY too much carb lol the are like 780 cfm.

for now just keep tinkering and honing your skills before you tackle the big stuff okay

 

[carwreck]

Figure 3 in this link shows the wire connections.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairi...900c15280098f0c


If you block off the air valve, the car might run better, but it will fail emissions tests.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

1999 Olds GLS 3.4L