Dirty Injectors

Joined
Nov 20, 2006
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31,302
Location
MA, Mittelfranken.de
I thought I would post about some dirty injectors I got a few days ago, these were so varnished they wouldn't even click, rust was setting in also.
They came out pretty good, not much between them and within spec, the paint is not the best as I tried to get some under the top cap to prevent further rust.
I only post this so others can see "injector cleaning" does not just mean running some fluid them and triggering them.

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How can one tell the injectors need more than Techron? The trim readouts getting wacky?

What can one do to not have to send them to you? Use top tier gas?

What about diesel injectors? Or a different ball game?
 
How can one tell the injectors need more than Techron? The trim readouts getting wacky?

What can one do to not have to send them to you? Use top tier gas?

What about diesel injectors? Or a different ball game?
It depends on a lot of things, if its a new vehicle or new injectors than top tier should take care of it if it is a daily driver. Certain conditions are problematic one of them being storage which is common with marine injectors.
Fuel trims irregularities, codes, misfires, rough running, etc can all be caused by dirty injectors, some scan tools can test individual injectors on some vehicles (I don't know every car or every tool but it wont be a cheap one).

Ohms testing is in general of little value except for diagnosing a open or short, testing the actual power consumption running is a better test this can be done in a machine like I use off the engine or with a scope on the engine but that will not tell you how it is flowing or how its spray pattern is.
Running a product like Techron, Redline SI-1 or other PEA cleaner is a good idea every 3-5K, if varnish is an issue a solvent based product like Berrymans Chemtool works best and is best for carbs especially ones on OPE, a splash in every tank in my experience will keep a clean carb clean indefinitely.

Somethings you can do nothing about is issues with DI, some are prone to filter burn out which drops particles down in the injector clogging it to various degrees sometimes badly and carbon clogging, another issue is the burn out of the teflon or graphite sealing ring.
These must be professionally serviced.
 
Trav does awesome work. You can see my thread I made a couple years ago below, I was blown away with how everything was packaged and the data sheets that were provided.

Link
 
I only post this so others can see "injector cleaning" does not just mean running some fluid them and triggering them.
What PM regimen do you recommend for the average driver? Do you like the PEA additives like Gumout Regane and Techron? If so, what frequency and concentration? I ask because some advocate a 2x dose. Its it benefical for them to be used on a long high speed highway trip? Or better to use for short drives so the treated tank lasts longer, or does it even matter? Thanks.
 
PEA is usually the best cleaner for deposits but if varnish is an issue (you really wouldn't know) then Chemtool or Kreen is the one to use.
Use them separate in full tanks of fuel or together, it doesn't seem to matter and you can get most of junk out. One bottle of each should do.
I would run them in town, the warm injectors with the cleaner in it has a lot of time sitting so it works better IMO.

When I clean really bad injectors like these were I put them in a slightly acidic solvent tank (not the electrics) trigger them so the solvent runs through then shut them off and let them sit overnight then activate the ultrasonics without the injectors firing, the ultrasonic action transfers to the inside the injectors and breaks everything free then I back flush it.

After that I run them triggered in a ammonia based fluid until it looks like all the junk is out then test them, repeat if necessary.
Running cleaners in the tank or through the rail has its limitations, if the injectors are old and never been serviced or have sat for a long time the filters may be buggered, the injectors must be removed to change them.

In theory anything smaller than the filter size should go through the nozzle and it will if the injector is clean but if there is any sort of build up or varnish it can trap even small particles, reality is much different.
Keeping the main fuel filter changed if possible is the best way to keep junk out, some cars do not use an inline filters and today its not as big an issue as it once was due to the change to composite ground tanks for the fuel storage at stations but if you have problems with clogged filters it may pay to add one inline using fittings not rubber hose with screw clamps.
 
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