Dino or Syn???

[NightRiderQ45]

Originally Posted By: ChiTDI
If you have had 8 years of success with a top shelf oil, why would you want to change that?

Exactly...sometimes these questions can become....

 

[Nickdfresh]

Originally Posted By: Quest
On my dad's work car (1st one was a 88 Mazda 323 EFI 1.6L), he's been using dino for every 6000kms OCI since bought used (@ 110,000kms) and when it was totalled, it had in excess of 286,000kms to clock, still pass provincial emissions control w/ original cat, original O2 sensor (both lazy but still works) and engine uses about 1/4qt per oil change mainly due to crankshaft seal leaks. It was on a strict diet of either Quaker State conventional 10W30 or whatever we can lay our hands on.

He's currently on 8000kms oci on either formula shell 5W20/5W20 or whatever onsale on is 1st owner 7th gen civic 1.7L. It's already got in excess of 130,000kms to clock and been AutoRx'ed once in approx. 86,000kms, absolutely no oil consumed during the course of OCI.

My mazda B6 block clocked in excess of 186,000kms to clock before I sold it due to paint peeling problems, and the engine does not consume any oil at all. Diet comprised of *ahem* early YB 10W30, then Quaker State Full Synthetic 10W30 exclusively. All seals are pliant and no leaks whatsoever. Also passes air-care like new (cat is a bit lazy).

...

Q.


Interesting...

I had a Mercury Tracer (basically a rebadged Mazda3 with a slightly nicer looking skin). I read the manual long after I got the thing and recall it recommended 10W-40 and even said to use 15w40 or even 20W-50 in hotter climates...

 

[mva]

Originally Posted By: FastSUV


MY issue is that EVERY CAR I have ever owned used oil past 4k or so...I HATE to have to top-off and I hear of so many people using Mobil 1 or other syns for crazy OCIs with no oil useage.



One thing I have learned from this site is that topping up the oil is a good thing. The bit of fresh oil helps to boost the TBN and additives in general.

Have a look at this link if you havn't already:

http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/mobil1.html

The quality of conventional oil is also very good, so if you are committed to changing the oil when it gets low on the dipstick, then a good name brand conventional (GTX, YB, Valvoline, etc) is probably best for you.

You might also want to try a high mileage oil such as maxlife to see if you can reduce the consumption but 3/4 quart per 4000 miles is already pretty good.

But I may be wrong...............

 

[jldcol]

I agree with after a oil change wait until the level drops from the full to the add line and at that point changing the oil. If engine is sound you will get little blowby and little oil useage and so can go a longer time on oil. If engine poorer shape, more blowby,and thus more junk loading into it, and more useage of oil, rational to think to change this dirtier oil more often. Some on here would say the syn may lessen oil usage, but I don't think it would halve it. Syn is better in newer or at least tighter engines that don't use oil so no/slow loss of oil, and thus can leave it in longer and that helps to justify the extra cost.