Digital Multimeter

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I'm planning to install a "conventional" remote starter on a 2012 Civic, so I will need a digital multi-meter to test the various parking light, trunk, ignition, etc wires.

I am not very familiar with multi-meters and their various functions (aside from being told to never use a test-light to test automotive wires). Someone suggested a "Fluke" branded meter:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OCF...FBC75N0R3DXNMJG

However, will I need to purchase a test-lead kit or will the included ones be fine?

http://www.amazon.com/Extech-TL809-Electronic-Test-Lead/dp/B0012VWUI6/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_img_y

Thanks in advance - I'm new to electrical systems so any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
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Fluke is an excellent brand of DVM. It should include some basic probe type test leads that should be sufficient. I always wanted a Fluke Auto-range DVM, but have settled for a $20 Craftsman DVM with manual range control, but I'm old-school ... I still have my old Radio Shack analog VOM.
 
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If you want a basic multimeter, you can pretty much go to the auto parts store, get a generic one off the shelf, and be completely in good hands.

I have three.

Granted a Fluke meter will pretty consistently be a solid meter, I can say that pretty much anything will do you absolutely fine for automotive applications and general tinkering.


Unless you're hacking the ECU or something that is.
 
Originally Posted By: RiceCake
If you want a basic multimeter, you can pretty much go to the auto parts store, get a generic one off the shelf, and be completely in good hands.

I have three.

Granted a Fluke meter will pretty consistently be a solid meter, I can say that pretty much anything will do you absolutely fine for automotive applications and general tinkering.


Unless you're hacking the ECU or something that is.

This is true. I have a Ratshack one that did me just fine for most automotive stuff, but I needed more features (AutoHold, Tracking Min/Avg/Max reading, capacitance, etc) so I bought a Fluke 177.
 
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Fluke is great stuff and the electronic technicians at my work use them exclusively. I have a Craftsman DVOM which does the job for me. I've had it for almost 20 years and have been using it about once a month with absolutely no problems.
 
I have a set of the Fluke AC89 and they work well. Sometimes hard to pierce tough insulation though.

Fluke makes very good stuff. I have an old workhorse 88 that is going on 20 years old, 10 years of that was abuse in an auto shop.

Truth be told, for $30 you can get a cheap meter that will do 95% of what my $270 (in ~1993 dollars) Fluke will do . If you are a pro and need a DVOM to use in a daily work environment where it gets dropped and banged around, ante up. For occasional use, nothing wrong with inexpensive. Gotta admit a meter with MIN/MAX/HOLD functions is handy.
 
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If you're in a pinch you can use a straight pin or opened paper clip to get into tight connectors.

There are places to use test lights. Not for logic, eg computer outputs, but stuff like trailer wiring adapters. If it has to pass current as well as voltage you can get fluke/phantom voltages on a DVOM that disappear when asked to move even a little current as well.
 
I have an old Fluke "Made in USA" but these new ones are just another Chinese made once good product.
You can get what you need for a lot less money. Fluke today is selling the sizzle without much steak and charging filet prices for the name.
 
Fluke meters are good, and I have the 111, which is very similar. Just an FYI, the amps range on those uses an expensive 11-amp fuse which you won't find at Radio Shack. That Amazon ad is wrong, it won't handle 20 amps for 30 seconds. Just make really sure you have the lead in the right socket before you measure voltage. The first time I blew mine when I forgot to switch the leads I thought it was no big deal until I had to order the $15 fuse from Digi-key.
 
Originally Posted By: eljefino
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If you're in a pinch you can use a straight pin or opened paper clip to get into tight connectors.

There are places to use test lights. Not for logic, eg computer outputs, but stuff like trailer wiring adapters. If it has to pass current as well as voltage you can get fluke/phantom voltages on a DVOM that disappear when asked to move even a little current as well.


Those Harbor Freight meters are all I've ever used. For $2.99 (on sale), I have one in every truck, tractor and boat. They work well.
 
what I really want is the alligator clip which will fit snugly on the end of the multi meter probes. I have tried to rig something which is functionally the same but it is just not the same. I found some clips but the probe did not fit tight enough.

Why am I the first one to tell Mike about the PowerProbe? Spend your money on that gizmo and pick up a cheap DVM.
 
I've had my Fluke 76 Mk III meter since 1997 and it's worked flawlessly for me for home wiring, automotive, electronics projects and general dorking around... but I still keep a freebie HF multimeter in my automotive toolbox as a loaner.

Works 'fine' (if doing resistance measurements, be sure to touch the leads together occasionally so you can see what sort of built-in offset to compensate) and if someone else uses it stupidly and lets out the magic smoke, they're only out $3 for a replacement.
 
Originally Posted By: bama7x57
Originally Posted By: eljefino
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If you're in a pinch you can use a straight pin or opened paper clip to get into tight connectors.

There are places to use test lights. Not for logic, eg computer outputs, but stuff like trailer wiring adapters. If it has to pass current as well as voltage you can get fluke/phantom voltages on a DVOM that disappear when asked to move even a little current as well.


Those Harbor Freight meters are all I've ever used. For $2.99 (on sale), I have one in every truck, tractor and boat. They work well.


I have this as well and it checks out very well against an expensive one my friend has.
 
Originally Posted By: tig1
Originally Posted By: bama7x57
Originally Posted By: eljefino
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If you're in a pinch you can use a straight pin or opened paper clip to get into tight connectors.

There are places to use test lights. Not for logic, eg computer outputs, but stuff like trailer wiring adapters. If it has to pass current as well as voltage you can get fluke/phantom voltages on a DVOM that disappear when asked to move even a little current as well.


Those Harbor Freight meters are all I've ever used. For $2.99 (on sale), I have one in every truck, tractor and boat. They work well.


I have this as well and it checks out very well against an expensive one my friend has.
I have that same one and it reads the same as my Fluke.
 
That's the beauty. So cheap you can drop it, step on it, blow it up, burn it out and soak it in water/oil/coolant, lose it, get it stolen or break it over someone's head, and all you have to do is reach in your toolbox and open up another new one for <$5. Quantity has a quality all its own.
 
Get a set of aligator test leads and a DVM from HF. If this is the one you will learn on, almost any DVM will do. I am not a fan of piercing insulation.

Have you obtained a copy of the directions to install it? Can you handle it? Some (Viper) do not include directions. The directions are only available to authorized installers.

Make sure you use top notch connectors. The ones included may just be OK.
 
I too found the HF multimeter accurate. when measured against a fluke....at first.

It now reads 0.25 volts low and contributed to overcharging my solar batteries.

Still useful, but do not rely on its accuracy lasting.

I have a clamp on DC ammeter, sears 82369, with most multimeter functions that I find very useful.
 
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