Differential fluid recommendation for Toyota and Nissan

Joined
May 22, 2011
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592
Location
Out west
I describe the usage in more detail in this thread but briefly:

First gen Toyota Tundra:
  • Manual recommends 75W-90 GL-5 in front and transfer case.
  • Rear recommendation is 75W-140.
  • I use 4WD monthly per manual recommendations and also do some light offroading in 4WD.
  • Review of my last service record shows 80W-something in all diffs. This may have just been what they selected in the computer to bill it, but basically I don't know what they put in.
  • Do I need to switch out the rear diff to 75W-140?
  • I have Redline GL-4 in the transmission. I'm good on that one. I prefer a GL-4 in the standard transmission.
Screenshot 2025-04-02 at 1.32.42 PM.webp


Nissan Rogue:
  • AWD, second gen.
  • Dealer serviced so far.
  • Not due for a change yet, so just getting a recommendation for when it's due.
Basically, what's the M1 EP or ESP equivalent for differential fluid? (By that, I just mean high quality fluid at a good price.)
 
Is your Tundra LSD or not? I'm not sure why limited slip would require something much lighter :unsure:

Your short trips probably won't think the gear oil out too much. If you have the open diff and really need the 140, you can always change it when convenient. You don't have to do it now. It's not an emergency, but whenever you can. Toyota is probably smart enough to include a drain plug, so changing the oil in the rear diff should be easy enough if needed :)
 
Diffs are easy but what's in the Rogue (CVT) tranny? I have a few years of experience and heartbreak with the older Jatco CVTs.
 
Diffs are easy but what's in the Rogue (CVT) tranny? I have a few years of experience and heartbreak with the older Jatco CVTs.
Dealer serviced and early. Ahead of schedule. I know that’s going to be the rate limiting part of this car that breaks before anything else. Already done two services in 70k miles.
 
Dealer serviced and early. Ahead of schedule. I know that’s going to be the rate limiting part of this car that breaks before anything else. Already done two services in 70k miles.
Good job and make sure they are dropping the pan to inspect and clean the magnets. I believe the Rogue was updated to three magnets from two in the previous design, similar to what Ford did with the 6R80.
(not a CVT but it has had critical failures due to metal buildup in the fluid)
 
Do yourself a favor. Browse the myriad of “why not to use Triax, EVER, even if somebody forces you to do so at gunpoint” threads before @kschachn wakes up tomorrow, lol

You’d likely be better off leaving the factory fill in there for 500k, or at least not far behind the Triax
 
Do yourself a favor. Browse the myriad of “why not to use Triax, EVER, even if somebody forces you to do so at gunpoint” threads before @kschachn wakes up tomorrow, lol

You’d likely be better off leaving the factory fill in there for 500k, or at least not far behind the Triax
Took me a minute but I found this post of a guy using Chevron gear oil that's rated for 500k miles. Totally wild to me.

I think I'm just going to order Amsoil for the warm and fuzzies. I couldn't find them, but apparently lots of really good UOAs here for the severe gear.
 
I can’t comment on the tundra but can promise you the rogue needs done early and often. The transfer and rear diff hold a qt together and will be outhouse water by 40k. I know from experience. The fronts a total pain in the keister but it’s cheap insurance. Use something of quality, amsoil, schaeffers or motul. No reason not to when it’s only a qt
 
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