Yeah... It's deeeefinitely better than m1 esp 0w-20...Toyota oil is better.
Yeah... It's deeeefinitely better than m1 esp 0w-20...Toyota oil is better.
Right. How is it better?Toyota oil is better.
VW 508 00 is a long-drain approval. Higher HT/HS than an ILSAC 20-grade with specified deposit control, oxidation resistance and other benefits.Ive thought about M1 ESP also. Assuming it would be good for 5K and for the turbos.
I may go with the ESP.VW 508 00 is a long-drain approval. Higher HT/HS than an ILSAC 20-grade with specified deposit control, oxidation resistance and other benefits.
It was a somewhat baited statement here on bitog, but I do like the addpack that the Toyota engineers had ExxonMobil blend for them. I especially like the high organic Moly, reminds me of the Redline of years past. See attached analysis, courtesy of Joseph732Right. How is it better?
kschy, you do not like to look at a virgin oil analysis reports to infer add packs? What about reports after 5k miles? or 10?That's a partial list of decomposed, mostly metallic elements, not a description of the "addpack". One can make some guesses of the compounds by reading those tea leaves but as I noted there are multiple molybdenum compounds and not all are used in the same concentration. You do not know the original compound from that spectrographic analysis.
And if you are able to predict future performance from a $30 analysis then you're doing a lot better than me. Also a lot better than any of the blenders and formulators. Even if you do know for certain the original composition of each additive one still has to test the oil as an aggregate to determine
It doesn’t show “actual additives”. But if you think does then you’re good to go.kschy, you do not like to look at a virgin oil analysis reports to infer add packs? What about reports after 5k miles? or 10?
The report shows the actual additives and respective values next to each.
The blender/ bottler is ExxonMobil. The specification for the oil was designed for Toyota by oil tribologists. The molybdenum debate, organic vs tri nuclear, has been discussed before.
How should we, as end users of the product, make informed decisions?
Now that Mobil1 ESP 0w20 is available at WM for about the same price as Mobil1 EP 0w20 I’m wondering if there is any advantage to using it in a Japanese or domestic (non Euro) application like our 2.5 Skyactiv Mazda?Ive thought about M1 ESP also. Assuming it would be good for 5K and for the turbos.
Using your logic, it seems you are in indeed making the argument that the recommended Toyota 0w20 is “best” for the OP and my Toyota Land Cruiser.For me the licenses, specifications and approvals the oil holds (or does not hold) are the measurement of real-world performance.
It has an API SP license like hundreds of other 20-grade oils. If that makes it best for you then go for it.Using your logic, it seems you are in indeed making the argument that the recommended Toyota 0w20 is “best” for the OP and my Toyota Land Cruiser.
It doesn’t get any easier.
I'm not Javier, but this is what I like.Javier, what do you like about Mobil 1 ESP 0w20?
I have another 1500 miles to go before my next oil change.
Any toyota labeled oil would be lagging behind the additive package of any major oil company's premium oils. Not worth using toyota or honda oils.Is there differences between the two Toyota 0W20’s? The one on the bottom is stocked at the dealer. Thanks.View attachment 226860
Toyota oil is made by Exxon Mobil so that makes your theory wrongAny toyota labeled oil would be lagging behind the additive package of any major oil company's premium oils. Not worth using toyota or honda oils.
It's simply a superior oil for just a few bucks more but I still don't like oils with a low hths so I use something thicker anyway. Though if I was forced to use a 20 grade then something that meets euro specs like mb229.71, vw508, and bmw ll-17fe+ is what I'd use. But I'm not so I won't. I am still under factory warranty on my 2021 escalade that states to use 0w-20 but I've been using 0/5w-40 euro instead. No I don't have fears because no the dealer isn't going to uoa my engine which is this silly boogeyman some bitogers have when the thought of under warranty engine work pops up in their mind. Only way they might is if the problem is something that can happen only with lspi but not all engines are lspi prone and euro oils are lspi friendly nowadays anyway so that is almost impossible now. Can't have lspi in a turbo engine with an sp rated euro oil which almost all are now.Javier, what do you like about Mobil 1 ESP 0w20?
I have another 1500 miles to go before my next oil change.
Guess you've never managed an oil lab or production plant. The off label toyota stuff gets the inferior basestocks, and the inferior addpacks, so your base be mineToyota oil is made by Exxon Mobil so that makes your theory wrong
And there is no evidence whatsoever that Toyota is using an inferior additive package as you claim. You have zero proof, you are just speculating.Guess you've never managed an oil lab or production plant. The off label toyota stuff gets the inferior basestocks, and the inferior addpacks, so your base be mine
Perhaps you could detail your experience, Son_of? Unless you’ve already done so.Guess you've never managed an oil lab or production plant. The off label toyota stuff gets the inferior basestocks, and the inferior addpacks, so your base be mine