Differences between the two 0W20

Right. How is it better?
It was a somewhat baited statement here on bitog, but I do like the addpack that the Toyota engineers had ExxonMobil blend for them. I especially like the high organic Moly, reminds me of the Redline of years past. See attached analysis, courtesy of Joseph732

Toyota 0W20 .jpeg
 
That's a partial list of decomposed, mostly metallic elements, not a description of the "addpack". One can make some guesses of the compounds by reading those tea leaves but as I noted there are multiple molybdenum compounds and not all are used in the same concentration. You do not know the original compound from that spectrographic analysis.

And if you are able to predict future performance from a $30 analysis then you're doing a lot better than me. Also a lot better than any of the blenders and formulators. Even if you do know for certain the original composition of each additive one still has to test the oil as an aggregate to determine performance.
 
That's a partial list of decomposed, mostly metallic elements, not a description of the "addpack". One can make some guesses of the compounds by reading those tea leaves but as I noted there are multiple molybdenum compounds and not all are used in the same concentration. You do not know the original compound from that spectrographic analysis.

And if you are able to predict future performance from a $30 analysis then you're doing a lot better than me. Also a lot better than any of the blenders and formulators. Even if you do know for certain the original composition of each additive one still has to test the oil as an aggregate to determine
kschy, you do not like to look at a virgin oil analysis reports to infer add packs? What about reports after 5k miles? or 10?
The report shows the actual additives and respective values next to each.

The blender/ bottler is ExxonMobil. The specification for the oil was designed for Toyota by oil tribologists. The molybdenum debate, organic vs tri nuclear, has been discussed before.

How should we, as end users of the product, make informed decisions?
 
Last edited:
kschy, you do not like to look at a virgin oil analysis reports to infer add packs? What about reports after 5k miles? or 10?
The report shows the actual additives and respective values next to each.

The blender/ bottler is ExxonMobil. The specification for the oil was designed for Toyota by oil tribologists. The molybdenum debate, organic vs tri nuclear, has been discussed before.

How should we, as end users of the product, make informed decisions?
It doesn’t show “actual additives”. But if you think does then you’re good to go.

I don’t look at a spectrographic analysis for oil suitability or performance. It doesn’t show anything relevant to me in that regard. Oil performance testing is far more complicated and expensive than a $30 spectrographic analysis. For me the licenses, specifications and approvals the oil holds (or does not hold) are the measurement of real-world performance. I’ll chose an oil with BMW Longlife-04 approval any day over my or someone else’s reading of the VOA or UOA tea leaves.

Or a dexos license. Or VW 504 00 approval. Or Mercedes-Benz 229.5 approval. Or if you’re really stuck on a 20-grade, VW 508 00 approval.
 
Last edited:
Ive thought about M1 ESP also. Assuming it would be good for 5K and for the turbos.
Now that Mobil1 ESP 0w20 is available at WM for about the same price as Mobil1 EP 0w20 I’m wondering if there is any advantage to using it in a Japanese or domestic (non Euro) application like our 2.5 Skyactiv Mazda?
 
For me the licenses, specifications and approvals the oil holds (or does not hold) are the measurement of real-world performance.
Using your logic, it seems you are in indeed making the argument that the recommended Toyota 0w20 is “best” for the OP and my Toyota Land Cruiser.
It doesn’t get any easier.
 
Javier, what do you like about Mobil 1 ESP 0w20?
I have another 1500 miles to go before my next oil change.
 
Javier, what do you like about Mobil 1 ESP 0w20?
I have another 1500 miles to go before my next oil change.
It's simply a superior oil for just a few bucks more but I still don't like oils with a low hths so I use something thicker anyway. Though if I was forced to use a 20 grade then something that meets euro specs like mb229.71, vw508, and bmw ll-17fe+ is what I'd use. But I'm not so I won't. I am still under factory warranty on my 2021 escalade that states to use 0w-20 but I've been using 0/5w-40 euro instead. No I don't have fears because no the dealer isn't going to uoa my engine which is this silly boogeyman some bitogers have when the thought of under warranty engine work pops up in their mind. Only way they might is if the problem is something that can happen only with lspi but not all engines are lspi prone and euro oils are lspi friendly nowadays anyway so that is almost impossible now. Can't have lspi in a turbo engine with an sp rated euro oil which almost all are now.
 
Guess you've never managed an oil lab or production plant. The off label toyota stuff gets the inferior basestocks, and the inferior addpacks, so your base be mine
And there is no evidence whatsoever that Toyota is using an inferior additive package as you claim. You have zero proof, you are just speculating.
 
Back
Top