alright, ill probably have the block and heads back from the machine by thursday next week and i plan on getting it in and running over the weekend since i have off. im just wondering, what oil should i use to break it in. i have heard every weight of oil out there to break it in, and i figure you guys are the authority and the final answer on anything that has to do with oil. main bearing clearances have already been measured at .015 and im sure they wont change after the block has been cleaned and bored and i dont know if that has anything to do with the weight of oil i should use but im just throwing it out there. sorry for being so long but i really want this motor to last and i dont want any problems at all with the bottom end. thanks in advance
did a search...best oil to break in 10:1 compression 5.0 mustang
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Havoline or Chevron dino
yeah i was gonna use havoline more than likely, i just need to know what weight would be the best. ive heard 5w30, straight 30, straight 40, 20w50, M1 0w40...whats up? i want to know what oil is going to give me the best break in possible. i would like to run M1 or amsoil in this motor after it is broken in. i would also like to know which oil would be best to run after i break it in, im not worried about brand specific...i want weights. this motor is gonna be a daily driver but more than likely it will be driven hard because its a mustang and its hard to keep the gas off the floor. thanks
10W-30
any justification for 10w30? im just trying to do this right, and im sure it really doesnt matter what oil i use, i just want to make sure i do this right
10w/30, cause it will do the job ,the clearances not to "loose" , add a couple cans of G.M engine oil supplement E.O.S. for extra protection during the initial minutes of run in. Any viscosity will do. priming the engine before start up probably is the most important thing to do.
awesome...thanks for the info
10w30, prime the engine and use GM Engine Oil Supplement and Camshaft and Lifter Prelube. If it's a hydraulic cam, you may want to read this:
http://www.4secondsflat.com/Hydraulic_lifter_cams.html
[ July 16, 2005, 02:35 AM: Message edited by: 427Z06 ]
http://www.4secondsflat.com/Hydraulic_lifter_cams.html
[ July 16, 2005, 02:35 AM: Message edited by: 427Z06 ]
.015" is insanely big - you must mean .0015" for the main clearance.
Pretty tight for a rebuild on the mains.
5-30 had better work. If not, something is wrong.
Pretty tight for a rebuild on the mains.
5-30 had better work. If not, something is wrong.
i found this on this board, think u might want to take a look. and look up amsoil series 2000. for after your break in.
http://www.syntheticoilontheweb.com/supersyn.htm
http://www.syntheticoilontheweb.com/supersyn.htm
Search Havoline in the VOA forum and see which grade has the most moly, boron and zinc.
This gentleman has it right. That infant engine is going to generate terrific heat the first few minutes. Break in is mainly about the upper cylinders. Don't over think the mains. They'll be fine.
If this is coming straight from the bench, you want a straight 30 weight DINO. The brand really doesn't matter, it won't be in there long. Prime it - and you really should. Run it 20-30 minutes. I'd run it a little harder though: 3,000. Don't let up. Don't be gentle. Periodic revs are GOOD, after the first few minutes. You've got to cut the hone down before glazing sets in.
The first running minute is absolutely critical to seating those rings. Botch it, and you'll have a burner for life.
After 30 minutes, change the oil and filter to the multi-vis dino of your choice, as 75% of break in is complete, if it was done right. Prime the system again. Change out again in 100 miles.
No way that has .015 clearance on the mains.
I just assumed he left a zero out. - over a hundredth of an inch (.01+) we would hear like a Model T!
As for 10W-30 - basically you want the oil to flow FAST. A straight 30 would probably work on an nice warm day....dude I think you are splitting hairs at some point - the quality of parts and quality of workmanship are way more important than 10W-30 vs. 30. Just don't use an SAE 60! Volvohead's procedure sounds about right. The days of babying and engine for the first 1000 miles are long gone.
As for 10W-30 - basically you want the oil to flow FAST. A straight 30 would probably work on an nice warm day....dude I think you are splitting hairs at some point - the quality of parts and quality of workmanship are way more important than 10W-30 vs. 30. Just don't use an SAE 60! Volvohead's procedure sounds about right. The days of babying and engine for the first 1000 miles are long gone.
awesome, thanks for all the help and info guys
good eyes ,I read the post and my brain read .0015
I'm sure it's a nice motor, but 10.0:1 compression is no big deal at all these days. Every normally aspirated Subaru 4 cyl has had 10.0:1 since at least '97, and the 6, it's at 10.7:1.
Dave
Dave
havoline 5w30 then mobil1 5w30 extended. go to the mobil1 website, they have a neat product finder function. why don't you ask this question over at corral.net or modulardepot?
I'm with Shannow. Straight 30 weight oil and E.O.S. Look for a sight on the internet that deals with the break in of a GM crate engine. I can not remember the sight but, it gives specific instructions for break in of a new engine. I know yours is Ford but, the procedure is universal. Stock up on oil and filters if you find the site, there are a few filter and oil changes that go with this procedure. I'm an old school muscle car guy so I always go with a straight weight 30 HD oil for break in.
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