Thanks for your input. However intuition about viscosity and countless YouTube videos showing 0W oil flowing significantly faster than 5W and higher oils at all temperatures make me think otherwise. That said, I’ll research well done studies in engines comparing flow and wear at a wide temp range to compare differences in startup wear. Please provide links or data if you’d like.
Dexos D alternative
- Thread starter fatgroundhog
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Thanks for your input. However intuition about viscosity and countless YouTube videos showing 0W oil flowing significantly faster than 5W and higher oils at all temperatures make me think otherwise. That said, I’ll research well done studies in engines comparing flow and wear at a wide temp range to compare differences in startup wear. Please provide links or data if you’d like.
To correct myself again, Amsoil heavy duty diesel technically isn’t low SAPS. So, use it at your own risk. That said, it’s only out of spec by 0.19% sulfated ash.
The most optimal oil I’ve found for the Baby Max engine IMHO is Mobil 1 ESP X4 0W-40.
How do you know the “Mobile “ will be the most optimal?
youtube videos are for entertainment. It's more complicated than that. For example:
If you compared a 0w40 with a VI of 160 and a 15w40 with a VI of 200 that both share a 100c viscosity of 14 cSt.
The 15w40 will be thinner at all temps until it is limited by it's winter rating, at that time the 0w40 will have the advantage and the 15w40 will not be pumpable.
0w ratings are widely used now due to fuel economy targets during the warm up period. 10w,15w, monogrades have advantages in hot weather, high temperatures and they resist shearing because they have very little or no viscosity modifiers in the formula.
If you live in climate that has mild winters and hot summers like me, a synthetic 10w30 or 15w40 may perform better in the summer and still be pumpable in the winter. If you used a 0w30 or 0w40 in this same climate, due to the volatility and VMs you may have to add oil as it evaporates or experience shearing for a slight fuel economy improvement during warm up.
An engine that has high oil temps (LZO), will benefit from a low volatility oil like Amsoil HD 10w30 or RLI Biosyn HD SAE30. The oil will not readily evaporate during normal driving as the NOACK is 1/2 to 1/3 (50-70% less) than the Mobil 1 0w40. This also means less oil vapor will be ingested by the engine and make it into the DPF.
Forgive me, “Mobil.” Also, I don’t claim to “know” Mobil 1 ESP X4 0W-40 is optimal for the Baby Max or for every user. In fact after comparing 40C KV and such, now I’m actually thinking Mobil 1 ESP 0W-30 is more of a Goldilocks oil choice for this engine because it boosts HTHS to 3.5cP and KV 40C only increases to 63 cSt. So, warm startup scratch might increase a little, but bearing crush at 90-100C operating temps decreases majorly. Also, that 3.5cP film will likely stay on the bearing longer at red lights between auto stop/start than 2.6cP from 0W-20 does.
THIS is the knowledge I came here to find. Thank you very much! That makes better sense now.
An example related to your point. Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30 has a lower KV 40C than the 0W-40.
That point about about the Noack is excellent too. I remember thinking about that before when searching for the lowest SAPS oils. What does it matter if its sulfated ash is only 0.5% if its flashpoint is so much lower that its NOACK is double that of an oil with 0.8% sulfated ash? The 0.5% ash oil would get about 24% more soot in your DPF than the 0.8% ash oil. Furthermore, the charred 0.5% ash oil that is still in the engine isn’t lubricating it nearly as well as the far less charred 0.8% ash oil. Even a 1% ash HDEO oil will clog the DPF significantly less with soot and lubricate the engine far better if its NOACK 1/3 that of the 0.5% ash oils, in keeping with what you said. So, you really do have to look 2-3 levels into the specs instead of surface level to truly get the best outcome.
I find it interesting Mobil 1 doesn’t advertise the X4 for diesel engines (unlike the x-20/30) despite it having the MB 229.52 approval
Thanks for the rec and sorry for late response. I liked the post and thought I had responded. Lol
Any particular reason for the AEL vs the diesel? Haven’t found anyone using the AEL in the 3.0. @Z28racecar had good results with the 5w-30 diesel so that’s why I was considering it
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I was contemplating the use of AEL as well during my use of the synthetic diesel oil. I think it would be worth a shot for a couple oil changes to see what the additive package and base oil differences could do.
It will have the same shortcomings as all low and mid-saps oils do. They do not have the detergency to handle soot like a “real” diesel oil will.
If you want synthetic 5w30 HDEO. These are all around $30 per gallon.
- Delvac 1 ESP 5w30
- Delvac 1 LE 5w30
- Rotella T6 5w30
As it stands for me right now, I’m sticking with low saps. Of course, I’m very likely to change my mind. Heck, took a whole lot of learning/convincing for me to bump to a 30 lol. Which in hindsight, is incredibly silly
Appreciate your input and feedback
edyvw
$50 site donor 2026
It is C3 oil. Lower KV100, high HTHS. PAO based. It seems they changed it a bit, but it is still very stout oil.
Appreciate your response and knowledge. You’ve convinced me to use the AEL in 3.0 if I switch from Mobil 1 ESP 0w-30. In a Hyundai/Kia 2.4 non-turbo engine, would you recommend Amsoil AEL or SS?
Don’t worry, you’re my servicing dealer.
Sorry. You should see me with first names! (Actually your forum name is great, I just don't have a nice cross reference!!)Don’t worry, you’re my servicing dealer.
edyvw
$50 site donor 2026
I have preference for Euro oils bcs. HTHS and some other limits.
If you are in War Eagle country, you don’t need 0W. AEL can be used in anything. It has also pretty robust TBN for lower SAPS oil.
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Good afternoon,
First time posting. I don’t mean to high jack the thread, but there has been some good information shared.
I purchased a 2025 AT4 3.0 in August. So far, the truck has been great. I did my first oil change at 1k miles, 2nd at 4k miles, and now I’m sitting at a little over 5k miles.
I’m using Castrol Edge Turbo Diesel 0w20 Dexos D. In another 1-2K miles, I’m going to send my oil in for an analysis to see what the wear metals are at.
It looks like some of the 3.0 LZ0 owners are experimenting with a little heavier weights/viscosity and have seen some positive results with their wear metal tests.
I know my truck is under warranty but there have been thrust bearing issues with the 25/26 LZ0 motors and GM recently switched their 6.2 motor to a higher viscosity due to bearing issues.
I’m considering switching to Mobil 1 ESP 0w30 or the Pennzoil Platinum Euro L 5w30, which I believe are both Dexos 2. I also saw that Pennzoil has a Platinum Euro LX 0w30 with low SAPS. It has a very high Boron level. Does anyone have any experience with the Euro LX?
Or there is the Amsoil 5w30 synthetic diesel oil (which they say meets/exceeds Dexos D) and their 5w30 LS synthetic euro oil.
My truck sees a little “around town” usage, but it’s mainly for driving from SoCal to Utah. My truck usually sits around 194-198 degrees for the engine temp. On our way back a few weeks ago, we were sitting in traffic, crawling up a long grade and the truck got up to 219. I was shocked to see this since it was only 60 degrees outside. Makes me wonder about the temp when crossing the desert when it’s 120 degrees.
Any thoughts on the above mentioned oils? Thank you in advance for your time.
First time posting. I don’t mean to high jack the thread, but there has been some good information shared.
I purchased a 2025 AT4 3.0 in August. So far, the truck has been great. I did my first oil change at 1k miles, 2nd at 4k miles, and now I’m sitting at a little over 5k miles.
I’m using Castrol Edge Turbo Diesel 0w20 Dexos D. In another 1-2K miles, I’m going to send my oil in for an analysis to see what the wear metals are at.
It looks like some of the 3.0 LZ0 owners are experimenting with a little heavier weights/viscosity and have seen some positive results with their wear metal tests.
I know my truck is under warranty but there have been thrust bearing issues with the 25/26 LZ0 motors and GM recently switched their 6.2 motor to a higher viscosity due to bearing issues.
I’m considering switching to Mobil 1 ESP 0w30 or the Pennzoil Platinum Euro L 5w30, which I believe are both Dexos 2. I also saw that Pennzoil has a Platinum Euro LX 0w30 with low SAPS. It has a very high Boron level. Does anyone have any experience with the Euro LX?
Or there is the Amsoil 5w30 synthetic diesel oil (which they say meets/exceeds Dexos D) and their 5w30 LS synthetic euro oil.
My truck sees a little “around town” usage, but it’s mainly for driving from SoCal to Utah. My truck usually sits around 194-198 degrees for the engine temp. On our way back a few weeks ago, we were sitting in traffic, crawling up a long grade and the truck got up to 219. I was shocked to see this since it was only 60 degrees outside. Makes me wonder about the temp when crossing the desert when it’s 120 degrees.
Any thoughts on the above mentioned oils? Thank you in advance for your time.
Thus far, I have tried AC Delco 0w20, Mobil 1 ESP 5w30, and Castro Edge Euro 5w30k with UOA.
The AC Delco had a lot of wear metals…but it was only the second on oil change at 5k.
Both 5w30 oils had iron in the 50s and virtually no difference in the UOA.
I am currently running Castrol Edge Turbo Diesel 0w20 Dexos D. I was going to do UOA, but the PPE filter leaked oil all over my driveway and I had to stick a STP filter on it, plus 2 quarts of oil…no UOA wouldn’t be accurate.
I don’t know if there’s a magic oil that reduces wear metals…but I’d like to find it.
I can say with 100% confidence, that the engine sounds different with 0w20. I can hear the turbo more clearly and it sounds quieter and less rattle.
I would like to try ESP 0w30.
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