Rotella T6 vs Mobil 1 ESP DEXOS-D 0W-20

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Dec 28, 2013
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Florida
I've used Rotella T6 in all my diesels, admittedly they all have been Mercedes automobiles. Never had an oil related issue.
Now I have a GMC Duramax 3.0 LM2 and it calls for this 0W-20 oil from Mobil 1.
Gosh, a 20 weight for the thick end of a diesel oil seems a bit light. What are y'alls thoughts on running like the 5w40 or the 10w30 from the Rotella line? Or, god forbid, we should run what the factory recommends? (we run from I-95 from South Florida to South Carolina)
 
Now I have a GMC Duramax 3.0 LM2 and it calls for this 0W-20 oil from Mobil 1.
In Canada, but you are not driving there!
Gosh, a 20 weight for the thick end of a diesel oil seems a bit light.
I agree!
What are y'alls thoughts on running like the 5w40 or the 10w30 from the Rotella line?
Sounds Good!
(we run from I-95 from South Florida to South Carolina)
You could also run a 15W-40!
 
Mobil 1 ESP 0w-30 seems to be the current favorite. Pennzoil Euro L 5w-30 also seems popular. Demonworks over on youtube likes both. Lake Speed Jr. has talks positivily about ESP 0w-30 in the baby duramax. I have 2 jugs of ESP in cue for an oil change in about 6 weeks.
 
Since you're a fellow Mercedes guy. Mobil 1 ESP has been serving Mercedes OM642 3.0l diesels very well. Not just the cars; thousands of Sprinters have put some high miles on it. I'm only at 165k miles on my E320 and Mobil 1 ESP has kept if very clean, no burning, etc, etc.
 
Now I have a GMC Duramax 3.0 LM2 and it calls for this 0W-20 oil from Mobil 1.
I would use Mobil 1 ESP 0W-30 or Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 0W-40.
I have a friend who has two turbo diesel MB Sprinters and runs them on FS 0W-40 for the last 15 years. One is over 400K miles and the other one is over 200K miles, the second one he got recently.
Both of them are 15-20 years old vans with the bullet proof 2.1L, 4 cyl. He loads and tows with them at their limit.
 
Since you're a fellow Mercedes guy. Mobil 1 ESP has been serving Mercedes OM642 3.0l diesels very well. Not just the cars; thousands of Sprinters have put some high miles on it. I'm only at 165k miles on my E320 and Mobil 1 ESP has kept if very clean, no burning, etc, etc.
Thanks, @CleanSump. My old Mercedes mechanic, twenty years ago, turned me on to T6 and I've run nothing else since then. I have an OM606 with 365K miles on it and Blackstone says I should get another 300 out if it. Therein lies my bias. But this is a new engine for a new time. My concern is that GM will have spec'd an oil that gets them past the EPA hurdles and over the line on warranty and not much more. It looks like the consensus is to run an oil with a 30 or 40 weight on the high end - that 20 is a concern, but what do I know.
 
Thanks, @CleanSump. My old Mercedes mechanic, twenty years ago, turned me on to T6 and I've run nothing else since then. I have an OM606 with 365K miles on it and Blackstone says I should get another 300 out if it. Therein lies my bias. But this is a new engine for a new time. My concern is that GM will have spec'd an oil that gets them past the EPA hurdles and over the line on warranty and not much more. It looks like the consensus is to run an oil with a 30 or 40 weight on the high end - that 20 is a concern, but what do I know.
On the 3.0 Duramax, here’s The Oil Geek’s data on 20 vs 30 vs 40 grade.

IMG_4705.webp
 
Thanks, @CleanSump. My old Mercedes mechanic, twenty years ago, turned me on to T6 and I've run nothing else since then. I have an OM606 with 365K miles on it and Blackstone says I should get another 300 out if it. Therein lies my bias. But this is a new engine for a new time. My concern is that GM will have spec'd an oil that gets them past the EPA hurdles and over the line on warranty and not much more. It looks like the consensus is to run an oil with a 30 or 40 weight on the high end - that 20 is a concern, but what do I know.
I'd think the Rotella 5W-30 or 10W-30 would be good. I used it in my old '85 240D for over 300k miles. I ran a '92 300D OM602 on it for the first 5 years. I switched to Amsoil 5W-30 after warranty ended and sold it after 23 years and 348k miles running strong.
Love my old, simple, pre-DPF Mercedes, but the small plastic and trim were nickel diming me to death. Mechanically they're like the Pyramids and just keep going!
 
I'd think the Rotella 5W-30 or 10W-30 would be good. I used it in my old '85 240D for over 300k miles. I ran a '92 300D OM602 on it for the first 5 years. I switched to Amsoil 5W-30 after warranty ended and sold it after 23 years and 348k miles running strong.
Love my old, simple, pre-DPF Mercedes, but the small plastic and trim were nickel diming me to death. Mechanically they're like the Pyramids and just keep going!
I couldn't agree more with the nickel and diming, love the car but there is always something and the somethings are getting really hard to find.
 
I'd think the Rotella 5W-30 or 10W-30 would be good. I used it in my old '85 240D for over 300k miles. I ran a '92 300D OM602 on it for the first 5 years. I switched to Amsoil 5W-30 after warranty ended and sold it after 23 years and 348k miles running strong.
Love my old, simple, pre-DPF Mercedes, but the small plastic and trim were nickel diming me to death. Mechanically they're like the Pyramids and just keep going!
Gotta watch out for the wet belt, especially in the LM2. The Rotella oils have more of the ingredients that may degrade your oil pump belt more quickly than DexosD oils. The Amsoil Signature Series 5W-30 that says it’s for DexosD is a safer bet for your wet belt.

The other oil that’s less expensive and should be ideal for the wet belt is Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30.
 
I’ve been using ESP 0w-30. Never ran an UOA but no issues and plenty of evidence that Xw-30 is a smart move if not a 5w-40 as posted above. I spoke with David at HPL with the idea of using their euro 5w-30 for all 3 of our vehicles and he advised using their DexosD if wanting to stay with DexosD or CK4, while suggesting if it was his truck he’d use the CK4. So, I ordered a case of the CK4 after he reassured any fears about SAPS and DPF were unfounded
 
I’ve been using ESP 0w-30. Never ran an UOA but no issues and plenty of evidence that Xw-30 is a smart move if not a 5w-40 as posted above. I spoke with David at HPL with the idea of using their euro 5w-30 for all 3 of our vehicles and he advised using their DexosD if wanting to stay with DexosD or CK4, while suggesting if it was his truck he’d use the CK4. So, I ordered a case of the CK4 after he reassured any fears about SAPS and DPF were unfounded
I’m curious what the wise veterans of BITOG think about CK-4 oil compatibility with the oil pump wet belt of the LM2/LZO engines. I know the LZO wet belt is supposed to last longer than the LM2 wet belt and the LM2 wet belt is much better than the wet timing belt design Ford was using in some Ecoboost engines. However, it’s still a wet belt. I recommended the ESP 5W-30 only because I think its otherwise inferior group III base oil has less oxidation and polarity than ESP 0W-30’s otherwise superior group IV base oil.

That said, DexosD approved ESP 0W-20 also uses more group IV PAO/ester in its base oil, just like 0W-30. So, I’m pretty sure the BITOG hive mind will deem this effect to be negligible.
 
I’m curious what the wise veterans of BITOG think about CK-4 oil compatibility with the oil pump wet belt of the LM2/LZO engines. I know the LZO wet belt is supposed to last longer than the LM2 wet belt and the LM2 wet belt is much better than the wet timing belt design Ford was using in some Ecoboost engines. However, it’s still a wet belt. I recommended the ESP 5W-30 only because I think its otherwise inferior group III base oil has less oxidation and polarity than ESP 0W-30’s otherwise superior group IV base oil.

That said, DexosD approved ESP 0W-20 also uses more group IV PAO/ester in its base oil, just like 0W-30. So, I’m pretty sure the BITOG hive mind will deem this effect to be negligible.

Not many diesels use a wet belt. The last VW TDI EA288 engine had one as well as VVT. This was in the 2015 model and last year to be imported. There was no change in oil specifications from the 2009-2015 VW TDI engines when the 2015s were released with the wet belt. This would imply that the belt is fully compatible with the organic and metallic additives in VW 507 oils and doesn’t require special considerations.

It’s likely a reinforced synthetic rubber belt with Kevlar or similar in the 3.0 engines. PAO oils can actually shrink seals and need to be balanced with other base oils. PAO in excess may have more of an effect on the belt than any additive. I’ve read that antimony DTC can react with nitrile in high concentrations. This could also be a factor if the belt is nitrile and you use an oil that has excessive sB.

The trope for not using CK-4 oil was “yer DPF is gonna plug!”. Now we have a new one, “but the wet belt won’t last!”.
 
I’m curious what the wise veterans of BITOG think about CK-4 oil compatibility with the oil pump wet belt of the LM2/LZO engines. I know the LZO wet belt is supposed to last longer than the LM2 wet belt and the LM2 wet belt is much better than the wet timing belt design Ford was using in some Ecoboost engines. However, it’s still a wet belt. I recommended the ESP 5W-30 only because I think its otherwise inferior group III base oil has less oxidation and polarity than ESP 0W-30’s otherwise superior group IV base oil.

That said, DexosD approved ESP 0W-20 also uses more group IV PAO/ester in its base oil, just like 0W-30. So, I’m pretty sure the BITOG hive mind will deem this effect to be negligible.
While they bumped the change interval from 150k to 200k I believe it’s still the same part. Could be wrong
 
While they bumped the change interval from 150k to 200k I believe it’s still the same part. Could be wrong
WOW, you’re right!

I guess that’s more reason to choose oils with formulations optimized for the LM2/LZO oil pump wet belt. I mean, what does GM care if it actually lasts 200k miles or not if even their extended powertrain warranty they sell ends at 120,000 miles?
 
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Mobil 1 ESP 0w-30
Pennzoil Euro L 5w-30
Delvac ESP 5w-40

Delo XSP 5w-40 is 0.8% SA if you can find it.

Some (me) would argue that a less worn engine will be less prone to DPF fouling than a loose engine. An oil that better protects against wear may/will offset higher SA concerns. If there was an equivalent to Delo 600 ADF on the market in 5w-40...that would be an interesting consideration.
 
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