Dealership forgot to "top off"

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Jun 8, 2004
Messages
203
Location
Lancaster, Pa
I had the thread about the "coincidence" of the axle seal going after a recent switch to Amsoil SV. Well, I had the dealership to the work under warranty as they had to also replace a hub bearing. Since they had supposedly topped off the Amsoil with their oil until the seal came in, I planned on a drain and fill with all Severe Gear. So I drained the front differential today and this is what was in the pan Drain pan
Which translated into 7 oz of what should have been 1.7 pints.
7 oz of fluid
And I had this nice leftover stash of metal,
metal shavings
This differential was just drained about 3 weeks prior.
 
Last edited:
How new is the vehicle? The synthetic that might have saved your diff. I would be concerned.

So the front diff is not used 99% of the time? It is going to be kinda tricky letting them know that your diff was not topped off..

To easy to deny deny.........
 
It is a 2005 Chevy Trailblazer 4X4 with 48K. Dealership was a little in denial, but notations have been made, for what it is worth. My luck, the differential will blow 3k after the warranty.
 
Well better the front than the rear.....if that's any consolation. I would drop that fluid after awhile to flush the metal particles out. Maybe put on a strong magnet on the cover if none exits.

At least you got something in writing. Synthetic lubes can be a life saver in low fluid conditions. Amsoil gear lube would be the one I would want to have in the diff than in any other.

So you had about 1/3 the gear lube you should have....I would think the wear would not be too much, but easy for me to say. I think it should be OK

I had a friend that ran low on Amsoil 5w30, she ran the car and said the oil light was flickering. I think she only had a couple of qts in the pan. I don't know exactly because she added oil. She had an oil filter cartridge and I did not see any metal in it. She probably did incur more wear but it did not show in the filter.
 
Syn oil won't save parts from breaking look at the lubricating modes in an engine or any lubed part. Is this the first oil change [To the severe Gear?] how did the drain oil look?
 
It was the first drain to Amsoil, but when the leak was diagnosed the dealership supposedly topped off with their bulk stuff. The repair was done 4 days later when the parts came in. Being anal
about fluids covered me here because I did not want the Amsoil/bulk fluid mix in there.
 
This is a good example why I'll never let anyone touch my cars again. I've had one to many bad experiences with repair shops that charge way to much and act like they could give a [censored] less if they tear something up.
 
Originally Posted By: DoubleDee
I had the thread about the "coincidence" of the axle seal going after a recent switch to Amsoil SV. Well, I had the dealership to the work under warranty as they had to also replace a hub bearing. Since they had supposedly topped off the Amsoil with their oil until the seal came in, I planned on a drain and fill with all Severe Gear. So I drained the front differential today and this is what was in the pan Drain pan
Which translated into 7 oz of what should have been 1.7 pints.
7 oz of fluid
And I had this nice leftover stash of metal,
metal shavings
This differential was just drained about 3 weeks prior.


Since this is a RECENT OCCURRENCE, you NEED TO TAKE IMMEDIATE ACTION to CYA. Hopefully, you saved the oil you drained from the front differential and also the metal shavings you've shown in the pictures.... THIS IS YOUR PROOF of the DEALER SCREW-UP. If you still have these, turn a small sample of the oil/lube in for a FULL UOA on it, but retain as much as possible. If you've already discarded it, then you may be SOL as far as PROOF is concerned. Try to get the UOA to determine the 'type' of lube provided as a sample too. The pictures may help, but not as much PROOF as the actual oil and metal particles would be.

You need to contact the dealer 'hotline' phone number and also file an 'official complaint' with them on this matter. Try to also see the mfg. 'area representative' about this issue. At the minimum, they should give you an 'extended warranty' on that front differential.... and at best results, they should have to replace the front axle assy (since the outer axle bearings were getting NO LUBRICATION if it was that low), but AT MINIMUM, they should be made to replace the differential assy and axle bearings WHETHER THEY SHOW OBVIOUS DAMAGE OR NOT.

If you don't RAISE A RUCKUS about it, they will simply blow you off and hope that it will last till the warranty expires. Believe me, if something happens later.... you'll find that the 'notation they made' was probably CONVENIENTLY LOST.... and then it's your word against theirs. If phone calls don't work, send 'certified letters' with COPIES of your pictures enclosed. Keep a 'log' and document all phone calls, names, and times of any conversations regarding this issue. A 'paper trail' is essential if 'legal issues' later evolve.

Do you have a copy of the 'work order' that this work was accomplished under? Always get a copy of ANY WORK done by a dealer, ESPECIALLY UNDER WARRANTY, that is done to your vehicle. Believe me, THEY WILL TRY NOT TO PROVIDE ONE TO YOU.... at least that was my own experience several years back when they damaged a drive shaft (improper lift operation) when replacing a 'cracked' rear wheel bearing in my Dodge 4WD 'PowerWagon' pickup. I contacted Chrysler Customer Service and they had the 'area rep' contact me. I finally got the whole front driveshaft, u-joints, and both yokes replaced. The fact that I was a certified ASE-CMAT really helped me since they couldn't really dispute my 'qualifications' on assessing 'potential damage'. The driveshaft had a 6" kink/bend in it from the lift hitting it when they raised the vehicle to service the rear axle. I saw the 'damage' before I even accepted the vehicle.

Remember, "The squeaky wheel gets the oil.".... RAISE HECK!!!!
 
I would be upset to say the least. But this is not the first time I have seen this type of thing. I would fill it with a cheaper synthetic like Mobil1 75w90 or even Supertech Synthetic and run it 10,000 miles and drain. If it comes out black with more metal then you might conisder trading it in.Even if you document this your dealer will probably throw you under the bus as GM is so broke now they are denying warranty as much as possible.

If the fluid comes out clear then you are ok.
 
Good luck...I just had a front diff failure on a 2006 Yukon Denali 4000 miles out of warranty. They told me to pound salt. I flushed the diff and traded the truck on a new Toyota 4Runner.

I doubt I'll ever go back to GM...they are just cutting too many corners with quality components.
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom