De-sludging a 2000 Corolla with a PP/MaxLife blend

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You want a cold weather oil for our winters?

Petro-Canada synthetic 5W-30 or 0W-30. LOWEST pump and crank numbers you will find of ANY oil out there - this is what PC blends their oils to do.

But yeah, the $19 4.4L PP jugs are tough to beat....
 
Originally Posted By: addyguy
You want a cold weather oil for our winters?

Petro-Canada synthetic 5W-30 or 0W-30. LOWEST pump and crank numbers you will find of ANY oil out there - this is what PC blends their oils to do.

But yeah, the $19 4.4L PP jugs are tough to beat....


That's really what it came down to and why I have no particular brand loyalty: its as simple as the price was right. As per other member suggestions, I've tossed the idea of blending it with anything and will just go straight PP and see what happens.

The spring OC will depend, again, on price vs my minimum criteria in what I expect in my engine oil. In the meantime I figure I have at least 6-9 months to keep an eye open for bargains (visiting the auto sections of Canadian Tire & Walmart has become second nature regardless of what I'm actually shopping for - the male equivalent to shoe shopping I suppose).

If it cleans the engine up a bit, then great. Either way a new PCV valve is cheap and (from what I've read) relatively easy to replace.
 
PCV valve should be a maintenance item such as inspect x-miles/y-months and replace if needed.

A clogged PCV valve will cause sludge, since it is a low cost part and easy to inspect and/or replace, you should not delay inspect it today.
 
Spyder, Drop by the local esso depot and pick up some Esso XD3 0w30 synthetic and the potent detergents in that oil will clean that engien up quick.

It did a great number on the Pontiac wave I have it in now. Top end is as clean as a whistle after only 4000kms.
 
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I looked up the product data sheet on that stuff here: http://www.esso.ca/Canada-English/Files/Products_Lubes/IOCAENCVLESEsso_Xd-3_extra.pdf

That looks like a good oil for this next oil change. After its done its job I can put the PP in on the oil change after that.

Meantime I'm going to go ahead and replace the PCV valve. Its still factory, and with 10 years worth of wear on it (and being a very inexpensive part), I'd sooner replace it than clean it.

Hadn't heard of XD-3 before, thanks for the heads up!

-Spyder

Originally Posted By: BlazerLT
Spyder, Drop by the local esso depot and pick up some Esso XD3 0w30 synthetic and the potent detergents in that oil will clean that engien up quick.

It did a great number on the Pontiac wave I have it in now. Top end is as clean as a whistle after only 4000kms.
 
No synthetic yet until you know or feel you've cleaned it. Even after wards I don't see a need for it until you can lower the consumption(if its an issue).

It could have developed sludge prior to that missed oil change, if the PCV was never serviced etc. MMO + a good quality Dino oil(mostly anything out there) for a few OCI's would clean up a majority of the contaminants and possibly reduce consumption(no promises).

First before investing in more oil, just hit up your local Toyota dealer, spend the $11 or less for a new PCV valve. Replacement is simple(5-10 minutes). Once that is done, you can ask any of us to help with MMO to your house.

I know you don't want to mix it since you used Regane but its much different beast than Regane. MMO in the oil will slowly break apart sludge. You can add 1qt MMO to a 5qt sump(replace 1qt oil, with 1qt MMO) and run it for a 3k OCI). After 2 or 3 of these oil changes, you can run MMO only for the last 500 miles as top off. Or you could use MMO now as top off towards the end of your OCI and don't have to worry about a heavy mix of additives.


That was also the year range the engines were known to slap oil around like a person slapping you in the dead of winter. It stings, and yes he made you his .....! Just careful maintenance to bring her back
wink.gif


Also,
These guys here won't lead you wrong, they have helped me out a number of times with my Xterra and my G6.
 
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Originally Posted By: Anies
No synthetic yet until you know or feel you've cleaned it. Even after wards I don't see a need for it until you can lower the consumption(if its an issue).

It could have developed sludge prior to that missed oil change, if the PCV was never serviced etc. MMO + a good quality Dino oil(mostly anything out there) for a few OCI's would clean up a majority of the contaminants and possibly reduce consumption(no promises).

First before investing in more oil, just hit up your local Toyota dealer, spend the $11 or less for a new PCV valve. Replacement is simple(5-10 minutes). Once that is done, you can ask any of us to help with MMO to your house.

I know you don't want to mix it since you used Regane but its much different beast than Regane. MMO in the oil will slowly break apart sludge. You can add 1qt MMO to a 5qt sump(replace 1qt oil, with 1qt MMO) and run it for a 3k OCI). After 2 or 3 of these oil changes, you can run MMO only for the last 500 miles as top off. Or you could use MMO now as top off towards the end of your OCI and don't have to worry about a heavy mix of additives.


That was also the year range the engines were known to slap oil around like a person slapping you in the dead of winter. It stings, and yes he made you his .....! Just careful maintenance to bring her back
wink.gif


Also,
These guys here won't lead you wrong, they have helped me out a number of times with my Xterra and my G6.


The PCV valve is ordered (through the local dealer, none in stock). Its only $10 bucks and change. They said they`d have it in within a day or two. As soon as I get it I`ll swap it in.

Even though mine`s an `oil burner`, it typically consumes very little oil - less than a liter every 5,000 km. I consider that reasonable for a 10 year old car, and for this model in particular (a liter of oil is less than $5). That`s provided I keep close to the speed limits; when I push it hard (which I no longer do), oil consumption goes way up. No leaks, just consumption, or burn off.

With not much more than a 1,000 km on my current oil change, I still have a while to decide what to do. I`m in agreement that the PCV valve is suspect, and after 10 years of service, its worth replacing at this point anyway.

I can`t get MMO here, but I can get Seafoam, and I`m leaning toward seafoaming the crankcase about 500 km before that next oil change.

I still prefer to switch to synth. If oil consumption was a serious issue I`d stick to dino (and probably go the HM route). Where it isn`t, and weighing the benefits of switching to synthetic over sticking to dino (and taking any alleged cleaning ability of syn out of the equation), I think the benefits are worth the extra cost.

And maybe its partly a novelty thing; having never tried it, I`m curious to see if it lives up to the claims of its proponents. If after a switch to syn I don`t find the benefits are worth the extra cost, I have no issues with going back to the dino oils I`ve always used in the past.

-Spyder
 
Originally Posted By: BlazerLT
Spyder, Drop by the local esso depot and pick up some Esso XD3 0w30 synthetic and the potent detergents in that oil will clean that engien up quick.

It did a great number on the Pontiac wave I have it in now. Top end is as clean as a whistle after only 4000kms.


I struck out on the XD-3. There`s one full service station here and several small convenience type gas pumps. I checked a few of the closest ones and they all carried only small bottles of Mobil-1. I called the only full service Esso here (the only one with a garage attached) and they likewise only carry Mobil-1. I looked on the web and the phone book for distribution outlets and nothing here. Called customer service and the only thing they suggested was to try a big box outlet like Walmart. I guess that`ll be my next route although I`m not optimistic.

So taking the collective wisdom of the forum members that have been helping me out with their feedback, based on availability constraints (can`t get MMO here or XD-3), this is the plan I`ve come up with:

1. Replace my PCV valve with a new OEM valve within the next couple days (same day Toyota calls to let me know its there).

2. 500 km before my next oil change, Seafoam the crankcase. At about 3,500 km, that will be 3 consecutive shortened oil changes on different dino oils (4,500 km on the first, about 2,800 km on the 2nd, and maybe 3,500 km on this one coming up).

3. Leave my current Mobil-1 EP oil filter on, as by the time I do that 3rd oil change, it`ll only have 3,200 km on it, or thereabouts. Its good for a lot more than that.

4. Use the PP I have on hand for that next change with the Mobil-1 filter, and run it for 5,000 km (max). Then replace oil and filter. The Mobil-1 filter`s a bit pricey, but I like it and I`ll probably stick with it. Potential alternatives (based upon what`s here) are NAPA, Quakerstate, and OEM. My only real rule when it comes to oil filters is no Fram (I am using a Fram air filter, no bias there).

5. I have no idea right now what`ll go in when the PP comes out. On the PP the price was too good to pass up, and I already new it was one of the best Group 3 synthetics out there. It`ll likely depend on how well the car takes to it and whether or not I develop any leaks or consumption issues. I won`t know that until I try it though, so I`ll probably wait until I`m a good 2,000 km into that change before I start shopping around for the next oil.

The feedback from everyone here has been great - particularly those who mentioned the PCV, as I hadn`t thought of that myself, but it makes sense to change it. No point in trying to clean the sludge out by any method without getting to the route of what`s causing it to form first.

Before I Seafoam it, I`ll find a way to take some shots of the oil fill hole and cap. Its rotten though, and unmistakably sludge.

-Spyder
 
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Originally Posted By: Spyder7


3. Leave my current Mobil-1 EP oil filter on, as by the time I do that 3rd oil change, it`ll only have 3,200 km on it, or thereabouts. Its good for a lot more than that.


The feedback from everyone here has been great - particularly those who mentioned the PCV, as I hadn`t thought of that myself, but it makes sense to change it. No point in trying to clean the sludge out by any method without getting to the route of what`s causing it to form first.

-Spyder


If you have sludge I'd change the filter EVERY TIME. Even if there is or is not any cleaning going on.

That is why I don't waste spend $$ for filters I can't use or don't need and change them each and every time. Also maybe that is the reason why I never have any "issues".
21.gif


Yep, that is why I said right off the top, GET THE PROBLEM FIXED.
thumbsup2.gif


Its NOT the oil. (as much as the marketing people and some members here want to you beleive)

Good luck! , Bill
 
I agree Bill. I didn`t think it was the oil, but the driving habits of the original owner (too much idling, short trips, lots of stop and go, very little highway, a missed oil change). That may have been a factor, but you guys have convinced me that the PCV valve is the most likely culprit. Where its 10 years old, cheap and easy to replace, I`m inclined to just replace it.

Once that`s done the cleaning process can begin, and a seafoaming seems to be the best way to start (in conjunction with shortened OCIs).

If the syn experiment works out (as in no significant increase in oil consumption), I`ll stick with it. And then it`ll be whatever decent Syn I find at a good price (Supertech being my baseline for `decent`). If not, back to dino and possibly a HM dino. I`m hoping it`ll take to the syn well, but I`m not going to keep using it if consumption rises above 1L per 5,000 km. Anything under that I don`t consider unreasonable in a 10 year old car, and particularly a model that`s a known oil burner.

-Spyder
 
Personally I'd rather use Pennzoil/Halvoline or Mobil 5000 before Supertech syn. I've used Supertech myself so I'm speaking from use not just because its Supertech. (which I love and USE their filters all the time)

You really need to get off the syn mindset if you don't mind my opinion. . In fact I'd say an engine in the extreme cold would be better off with Pennzoil conventional than Syntech syn looking at the cold flow numbers.

Watch the PVC closely and make sure it stays clean.

My Corolla uses oil (all engines do) but consumes syn at a much higher rate than any conventional. Same reason why when you rev higher the rate goes up.

Take care, Bill
 
I agree on changing the filter when changing the oil since you have sludge. I would suggest the Supertech 4967 filter for these short oci's.
 
Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
Personally I'd rather use Pennzoil/Halvoline or Mobil 5000 before Supertech syn. I've used Supertech myself so I'm speaking from use not just because its Supertech. (which I love and USE their filters all the time)

You really need to get off the syn mindset if you don't mind my opinion. . In fact I'd say an engine in the extreme cold would be better off with Pennzoil conventional than Syntech syn looking at the cold flow numbers.

Watch the PVC closely and make sure it stays clean.

My Corolla uses oil (all engines do) but consumes syn at a much higher rate than any conventional. Same reason why when you rev higher the rate goes up.

Take care, Bill


Bill, its just one of those things I have to try for myself. Like an itch that needs to be scratched. If consumption increases beyond 1L per 5,000 km, then it`ll come out and dino will go back in and stay in for the remaining life of this car, and I`ll write the syn experience off as a failed experiment.

I`ve already written off the marketing hype about its cleaning ability. No expectations there (which is why I`ll seafoam first). If the seafoam clears some of the gunk out (like it should), then you`re right: I should replace the filter too. And my only motto there is anything but Fram.

-Spyder
 
Big thanks to all you guys who pointed me to the PCV valve. It arrived today and I installed it this afternoon. Took me a bit more than 10 mins, buts that`s more because I`m still a backyard garage rookie with a marginal set of tools - although I`ve been expanding them every payday.

The original PCV valve was filthy. Filthy as in just completely gummed up. Best $10 I ever spent. Noticed a difference immediately when the car started as soon as I turned the key (its never done that before). Could also feel a difference in throttle response and acceleration.

Now its ready to get the gunk cleaned out.

-Spyder
 
Originally Posted By: Andyge
How about doing an engine flush.

Andy


Still on the fence on that one (couple thousand km before my planned early oci so I still have time to make up my mind). In a lot of the threads I`ve read here and elsewhere on the subject, the question is asked: where does the gunk end up. Ideally in suspension and through the filter where it stays. Why I`m on the fence is what if it doesn`t, and it leads to a major problem I don`t have now. There`s also the issue of how abrasive these flushes may be.

Right now I`m torn between seafoaming it 500 km before my next oci, or just running a series of short OCIs on either a high detergent synthetic or HDEO like Shell Rotella T.

The car has 103,000 km and, except for the sludge, its in very good shape. I`m leaning more toward short OCIs using whatever oil(s) (I never stick to one brand) will clean it gently over time. Even if that time period means 20,000 km and several short OCIs before I start seeing significant results.

-Spyder
 
Originally Posted By: hate2work
Originally Posted By: Johnny
Or, try some of this.

http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/flsh.aspx


I'm told they recently reformulated this so it's a little gentler, not so harsh.


That might be an option - I`ll need to research it more. There`s not as many options here, mainly limited to what can be found at Canadian Tire, Walmart, and NAPA. And what can be shipped to Canada. Some favorite products on this site, like MMO and Redline SL-1, just can`t be had here.

I`ll give Walmart some credit though in that they offer a pretty full selection of engine oils, at good prices. NAPA also carries a few HDEO oils.

Other products can be hard to find or just aren`t here. I`ll keep an eye out for it and price what it`d cost to shop it here direct from Amsoil online.

-Spyder
 
Originally Posted By: Spyder7
Big thanks to all you guys who pointed me to the PCV valve. It arrived today and I installed it this afternoon. Took me a bit more than 10 mins, buts that`s more because I`m still a backyard garage rookie with a marginal set of tools - although I`ve been expanding them every payday.

The original PCV valve was filthy. Filthy as in just completely gummed up. Best $10 I ever spent. Noticed a difference immediately when the car started as soon as I turned the key (its never done that before). Could also feel a difference in throttle response and acceleration.

Now its ready to get the gunk cleaned out.

-Spyder


If the PCV was that clogged did you inspect the hose as well? I'd change that too, my guess is it would be clogged up too. Don't be fooled by the car running better there could still be junk, like a clogged artery restricting flow through the PCV hose.
 
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