David McFall - 5w-20 article
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You're on a thinner-is-better kick lately aren't you? I can't blame you, 20wts are here to stay.
I agree that so far 5w-20 is showing good stuff.. My Dad is running it in his new Honda Powered Vue and all looks and runs great...
But, In Busters article 2 things got me...
"We've seen no negative effects of 5w-20 oils up to 150,000 miles".
"We confident oils meeting our will provide at least 150,000 miles of durablity protection"
What about 200k miles? For me 200k miles is about 6 1/2 years. I'll do 150k in 5 years.
Those comments concern me....
I don't have anything that runs 5w-20 and my dad will never see 150k on his Vue, but for someone who puts 27-30k per year, 150k is not too many miles!
Take care, Bill
But, In Busters article 2 things got me...
"We've seen no negative effects of 5w-20 oils up to 150,000 miles".
"We confident oils meeting our will provide at least 150,000 miles of durablity protection"
What about 200k miles? For me 200k miles is about 6 1/2 years. I'll do 150k in 5 years.
Those comments concern me....
I don't have anything that runs 5w-20 and my dad will never see 150k on his Vue, but for someone who puts 27-30k per year, 150k is not too many miles!
Take care, Bill
Bill, I read that "150,000 mile" statement the same way you did. My thinking is that they have no vested interest in higher-mileage cars as they simply make no money on them. Why research something that has no return on investment?? I'm sure a good 20wt oil (read: "blend") will provide 300-400K of service.
Of course the obvious question is, will a thicker oil provide even longer service? Who knows. That would be about 15 years with a a car. By then, the interior will need to be reupholstered and the engine will need a rebuild as well. Why even spend all that time and money on it when you can get a new, more fuel efficient car for about $15,000?
Of course the obvious question is, will a thicker oil provide even longer service? Who knows. That would be about 15 years with a a car. By then, the interior will need to be reupholstered and the engine will need a rebuild as well. Why even spend all that time and money on it when you can get a new, more fuel efficient car for about $15,000?
For me, that is 5 to 6 years!
The rest of the car should be ok. My 20 year old 1986 Jetta still looks 8 out of 10 outside and 10 inside. The sister in law who got it takes care of it like we did and it shows.
So, I can't take the "chance" that 150k is the cut off point.. I really need to have a outfit that more like 250k to 300k is the point of deciding to replace or keep going with little problems.
And would hope the MFG of the outfit has designed it to last longer than 150k... Looks like Ford at least thinks this is all units need to last??
Take care, bill
quote:
Originally posted by Bill in Utah:
[QB]For me, that is 5 to 6 years!
The rest of the car should be ok. My 20 year old 1986 Jetta still looks 8 out of 10 outside and 10 inside. The sister in law who got it takes care of it like we did and it shows.
So far the UOA results with engines spec'd for 5W-20 have been real good. I don't see why these engines can't last to 200,000+ miles if the oil is changed accordingly. Old prejudices die hard
.
Whimsey
Only time will tell.
My modular motor spreadsheet gives me a warm and fuzzy feeling in using 5w30 though.
My modular motor spreadsheet gives me a warm and fuzzy feeling in using 5w30 though.
Generally car folks design for 90% survivability to 150K miles. After that the tree huggers want you to recycle your wheels into a newer one that is higher mileage and less polluting.. So 20W meets "spec".
Around here anything run for 150K miles probably has been hit a few times... Your lucky to have something last that long before some idi@t bends it in half for you.
Around here anything run for 150K miles probably has been hit a few times... Your lucky to have something last that long before some idi@t bends it in half for you.
So, the real question is how long do you want to drive and maintain that car. If 120-150K miles is 'enough' then the factory recommented oils and change intervals are acceptable and reasonable. On the other hand, if you really do want your car to last (say) 300K miles, then what oils should you actually use, and should you alter your driving style and maintanence style to achieve this formidable goal?
{Assuming, of course, that you don't get that vehicle hammered by some drunk in the process...}
{Assuming, of course, that you don't get that vehicle hammered by some drunk in the process...}
This site has more than ever been bombarded with the thick& thin issue lately. It seems to me cars are being built not for longivity but replacement. With things the way they are today conserve is a loose term pounded into your head to use thin oil. Yes there are cars made that do very well on the 5/20 but as years pass you may have to rethink that thin is now not better.I am just talking from a logical standpoint.I had a 50 Mercury flathead and if I put 20 wt oil in it it would knock and burn thru the oil .If I put 40 wt. in it it was almost quiet and the oil would last a while. All this talk of how they doctor up oil to make the engine last is something we each need to consider when useing a 0/20 in a car with 80K miles and driven in rush hour at 100+ degree temp..During its young life with low mileage driver short trips etc. the oil will hold up but as the cars age it needs ARX and a more full bodied oil like going from lite beer to regular.
If you get stuck in traffic on a 120F day with the A/C on and seven people in the car, and the oil temp is up to, say, 240F there is very little difference in the viscosity between a 20, 30 or 40 weight oil. I think the more important issue here is to go to a better quality oil and change it when needed.
When you flush your cooling system and brake system and your automatic transmission every two years, you should include something like Auto-RX.
And the next move would be to use a synthetic oil.
When you flush your cooling system and brake system and your automatic transmission every two years, you should include something like Auto-RX.
And the next move would be to use a synthetic oil.
LarryL I am not sold on the sythetic oil thing even in situlation like yours. But each is his own.
Synthetic oil is truly good in really extreme situation, HDEO otherwise offers the best value and holds up quite well even in really hot temperature situation as long as the cooling system is functioning. The only problem would arise if the oil temps hit over the normal flash point of mineral oil, in that case, there is other trouble brewing as well.
Isn't that sad. Do they ever factor in the polution and energy used to build that new car? My car is 17 years old, any car I'd get to replace it would get the same gas mileage, although slightly better emissions. I still doubt there is any net evironmental gain at this point.
-T
When you flush your cooling system and brake system and your automatic transmission every two years, you should include something like Auto-RX.
I will not use ARX... in my brakeing system.I do flush it every 2 years though.
My point is thin oil in high temps. = oil useage. Even those who run it long I bet use more oil than those useing a 30 wt.
I will not use ARX... in my brakeing system.I do flush it every 2 years though.
Your best bet is to run the weight called for in the owner's manual. The manufacturer wants your vehicle to give you satisfactory service, so you'll buy your next from them. Synthetic oil is a good idea if you do mostly freeway driving at sustained freeway speed, tow a trailer frequently, and/or live in a hot climate where higher engine temp's are the norm.
MolaKule
Staff member
Do NOT use ARX or anything else in a braking system's hydrualic's except the specified brake fluid.
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