Dampers (shocks) lasting nearly “forever”?

[Hillbilly Deluxe]

New lower control arms will make a bigger difference.

Be careful with compressing those front springs. My compressor hates those.

Thanks. I'm going to have a shop swap everything over. I'm getting new upper and lower cushions/isolators and new bump stops. I can't justify replacing the springs and upper mounts, those combined ala carte are more than the friggin' strut itself. Toyota does not sell quick struts. It's all ala carte

 

[Hillbilly Deluxe]

Yes!!! Wooooooooo-HOOOOOOOOOO!!!!

What do current struts and dampers feel like? Any secondary motions, extra bouncing, and so on?

Also: where do you see that Toyota says not to replace unless leaking? Thanks

1. I would say the ride quality is better than most unibody CUVs on the road. Afterall, it's a Lexus not a Rogue... I will say the ride is not as smooooth and such as our 2013 LX570 with the AHC. Not even any sort of comparable anything, but still.

2. I have heard for years from highly educated/experienced techs that Toyota has always recommend not replacing the struts or shocks unless they are dripping.

I will update this thread and most likely post my own for future search results when I get it all done and aligned.

 

[Hillbilly Deluxe]

I can tell you that we had a 2007 CR-V since it was new and we replaced all four at about 65k miles. Tire wear was awful.

The replacement was done at a formerly highly reputable tire chain in the Atlanta area (Kauffman) and after replacement, the thing rode like a dream. That vehicle was rear-ended and totaled at 100k miles.

I now have a 2008 CR-V that my daughter drives, 178k miles and it's on the original struts/shocks. I intend on replacing them soon with a cheap aftermarket set. I simply am not in the mood to put OEM struts / shocks on it.

I will also report back when we get these installed. The ride in that thing is pretty bad.

 

[Dave9]

In my region there's plenty of potholes, shoddy road work, hills, curves, speed bumps, etc.

Vehicles with a higher center of gravity like trucks and SUVs, I replace shocks around 50K mi. Cars and CUVs, closer to 100K mi. I've always noticed a difference in dampening after replacement (far too large a difference to be placebo), but that 50K/100K isn't a hard rule, rather that's just about the point where i noticed the dampening has degraded enough to warrant replacement.

As others have stated, the degradation in dampening is gradual, for a long time before complete failure. Up to a point you get used to it. Replace them when you feel the control and/or (vs) ride quality needs improved. Which of these two alternatives needs improved more, determines whether you want a firmer, or typically OE/equivalent is a softer, dampening rate shock. If it's more control you want and the vehicle is hitting 100K mi or more, you might also want more suspension work done than just firmer shocks.

 

[Owen Lucas]

05 Scion, 180k+ Miles. I hauled 20+ 50lb bags of gravel spread throughout the entire trunk area (rear sets down) and passenger footwell footwell totaling 1000+ lbs. I did this when the car was 14 years old on the original shocks.

Drove about 20 miles round trip in the early morning so I could go slower on the city roads instead of the highway. The rear suspension was bouncing off the bump stops most of the ride. Shocks still work fine, no leaks. Front shocks are weeping by the seals a little but don't seem to have any performance issues.

 

[artbuc]

that's it! that hit the G spot in my brain. I see now how damping is gradually reduced.

Once there is "blow by" inside the damper, is it a runaway condition - as in the damper quickly moving from, say 80% OEM spec to 20%, within a few thousand miles (or even quicker) or is it a slow, progressive decrease (in most usage cases)?

Would you, personally, go by your own feel for how suspension is performing or by mileage?

It took you 5 pages to grasp this simple concept? Impressive.

 

[Elkins45]

Reminds of the brake fluid thread where guys were happy they had never changed brake fluid in their lives lol

I checked the service schedule for both of my cars. Neither lists brake fluid replacement as a maintenance item.

 

[Jimmy_Russells]

I checked the service schedule for both of my cars. Neither lists brake fluid replacement as a maintenance item.

It probably doesn't list tires or brake pads as maintenance items either. But it's probably a good idea to change when required.

 

[Elkins45]

It probably doesn't list tires or brake pads as maintenance items either. But it's probably a good idea to change when required.

Changing my brake fluid has never been required. Just like my shocks.

 

[Jimmy_Russells]

Changing my brake fluid has never been required. Just like my shocks.

have you ever tested it?

 

[Elkins45]

have you ever tested it?

I test it every time I stop. It hasn’t failed yet.

In all seriousness, I don’t know anyone in my extended circle of family and friends who has ever changed their brake fluid. Nor do I know anyone who has ever had to replace a hydraulic component of their brakes. I think my dad replaced the shocks on his 67 Impala once.

 

[CBR.worm]

I typically end up replacing OEM dampers at around 140K miles. Usually due to the strut mount bearings failing. If I'm going to take the springs off, I'm replacing everything before putting it back together. I've never had any complaints with the performance prior to replacement, I'm always shocked at the improvement after replacement. Since I typically keep my cars for ~220K miles, I should change the dampers at 110K instead to maximize my ride comfort. I've never had a strut or shock leak except on an old Buick.

As for brake fluid, it breaks down pretty quickly where I live. After a few years, it gets nasty. My manuals typically recommend replacing it every other year, regardless of miles. I usually follow that guideline as I am hard on the brakes, have performance pads, and I don't want my fluid boiling as I'm careening down a mountain with a trailer attached.

Of course, I also replace my coolant on schedule, and all the other things.

 

[AlphaOmega]

I typically end up replacing OEM dampers at around 140K miles

Since I typically keep my cars for ~220K miles

how many cars have you taken from new to 220k miles and how many dampers have you replaced at 140k mi?

Why and what cars did you have to dump early and which ones have you kept to 220k mi?

 

[AlphaOmega]

I have a new set of OEM struts and shocks to put on it. I will do it in a week or so.

How much and how long are you going to keep us waiting?

 

[AlphaOmega]

how many cars have you taken from new to 220k miles and how many dampers have you replaced at 140k mi?

Why and what cars did you have to dump early and which ones have you kept to 220k mi?

@CBR.worm ?

 

[IndyIan]

I can tell you that we had a 2007 CR-V since it was new and we replaced all four at about 65k miles. Tire wear was awful.

The replacement was done at a formerly highly reputable tire chain in the Atlanta area (Kauffman) and after replacement, the thing rode like a dream. That vehicle was rear-ended and totaled at 100k miles.

I now have a 2008 CR-V that my daughter drives, 178k miles and it's on the original struts/shocks. I intend on replacing them soon with a cheap aftermarket set. I simply am not in the mood to put OEM struts / shocks on it.

I will also report back when we get these installed. The ride in that thing is pretty bad.

If she's going to keep it for a while, I'd go KYB, they seem to work well and last for only a bit more money than the real cheap brands.

 

[PandaBear]

I used to carpool with 2-3 other people and drive 90mph. Those cars I had worn out rear dampers way before the front and they still didn't bottom out, only uncomfortable over some humps on highway. I replaced them at around 160-180k. My newer cars weren't hauling 3 people around, at 120k still drives very nice and no worn dampers feel. To me they wear out slowly and are replaced when I was annoyed.

 

[Hillbilly Deluxe]

Allright allright allright


I replaced all 4 struts on the 2008 CR-V this weekend. 182k miles on the originals. I’d say the ride was rough, janky and just plain terrible.

I used the el-cheapo TRQ chinesium quick struts from 1Aauto, less than $400 shipped to my door.

The job was a complete PITA, this was my first time ever changing struts, I have a very nice collection of pro-level tools, two jacks, 1/2” battery impact, Milwaukee 3/8” battery ratchet, all sorts of wrenches, etc. I had every tool needed, etc except a 2-post lift. I was basically on concrete for 6 hours. Starting temp Sat morning was about 74, RH about 79%.

I got hung up pretty bad on the lower bolt connection on the first sway bar connecting rod. You don’t need to remove them but I messed up and didn’t use my impact on the top end link mount and jacked up the hex socket of the bolt trying to get it loose so I had to replace it.

Anyway, I ended up with about 2-1/2 hours on the first front strut and 20 minutes on the other side. The first rear strut was about 75 minutes and the other side about 40. There’s a tab on the top of the strut that only one YouTube video talks about you need to address, otherwise you find yourself beating the strut out from the interior of the car…

Yeah, I know. Everyone is smarter than me and would have figured it out quicker.

Anyway, I got’em all changed out and test drove it. I felt the ride was phenomenal. I will say the handling is a lot tighter, almost too stiff with quick jerking the wheel left and right.

As far as how long they will last… 1Aauto warranties them for life IIRC. If they will make it 65-70k miles and we still have it at that point, another set of chinesium struts will be going on it at that point. It will be at the 250k mile mark and I feel that’s nearing end of life for this generation CR-V

 

[Hillbilly Deluxe]

Here’s my tools all laid out to start. 45 minutes later, it looked like a truck had driven across them

 

[BMWTurboDzl]

Allright allright allright


I replaced all 4 struts on the 2008 CR-V this weekend. 182k miles on the originals. I’d say the ride was rough, janky and just plain terrible.

I used the el-cheapo TRQ chinesium quick struts from 1Aauto, less than $400 shipped to my door.

The job was a complete PITA, this was my first time ever changing struts, I have a very nice collection of pro-level tools, two jacks, 1/2” battery impact, Milwaukee 3/8” battery ratchet, all sorts of wrenches, etc. I had every tool needed, etc except a 2-post lift. I was basically on concrete for 6 hours. Starting temp Sat morning was about 74, RH about 79%.

I got hung up pretty bad on the lower bolt connection on the first sway bar connecting rod. You don’t need to remove them but I messed up and didn’t use my impact on the top end link mount and jacked up the hex socket of the bolt trying to get it loose so I had to replace it.

Anyway, I ended up with about 2-1/2 hours on the first front strut and 20 minutes on the other side. The first rear strut was about 75 minutes and the other side about 40. There’s a tab on the top of the strut that only one YouTube video talks about you need to address, otherwise you find yourself beating the strut out from the interior of the car…

Yeah, I know. Everyone is smarter than me and would have figured it out quicker.

Anyway, I got’em all changed out and test drove it. I felt the ride was phenomenal. I will say the handling is a lot tighter, almost too stiff with quick jerking the wheel left and right.

As far as how long they will last… 1Aauto warranties them for life IIRC. If they will make it 65-70k miles and we still have it at that point, another set of chinesium struts will be going on it at that point. It will be at the 250k mile mark and I feel that’s nearing end of life for this generation CR-V

So how's the ride now? Kudos for doing it yourself. Rare breed IMO.