Some people just love that Bar and Chain oil with Mineral Spirits and a touch of Clorinated Hydrocarbons.
Damaged Engine: Which oil to use?
- Thread starter chucky2
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So - if the filter is defective and it ruins your motor, chasing Fram would be worthless?
I was thinking the same thing when I read his post. I'm wondering if he tightened the filter by hand or with a filter wrench.
MMO is mainly ATF, with two or three solvents added in.
The ATF does some cleaning and also softens seals a bit.
The solvents do the rest of the cleaning.
I've used it as a fuel cleaner; gentle cleaner there; as well as upper cylinder lube.
When used in oil, it will help clean varnish and sludge; again, gently, not like a solvent(only) flush.
The ATF does some cleaning and also softens seals a bit.
The solvents do the rest of the cleaning.
I've used it as a fuel cleaner; gentle cleaner there; as well as upper cylinder lube.
When used in oil, it will help clean varnish and sludge; again, gently, not like a solvent(only) flush.
I thought it was suppose to be 3/4 to 1 full turn after it touches. I usually tighten mine as tight as I can with 1 hand and it usually goes about 3/4 turn. I would double check for future reference.
No I don't work for fram. After reading on here, I won't even put a fram on my vehicles. That doesn't change my mind about a freakin gasket. I used them for yrs with no problems at all. Matter of fact I had a delco filter fail on me due to the threading was off a bit. I don't cry that ac delco filters stink. It happens!!! All I am saying is anyone can have gasket failure or something like that. Just because I think the gasket issue could happen to any filter does not mean I back fram. With that being said, fram could have an issue with the way the gasket seats to the filter or it is could be getting damaged in the process of being applied to the filter. I guess we need someone to do an analysis on gaskets too.
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I think it IS mainly solvent that may look sorta like ATF.
Chemical CAS No / Unique ID Percent
o-Dichlorobenzene 000095-50-1 0-1
Stoddard solvent 008052-41-3 20-30
Hydrotreated heavy naphthenic distillate solvent extract 064742-52-5 70-80
Chemical CAS No / Unique ID Percent
o-Dichlorobenzene 000095-50-1 0-1
Stoddard solvent 008052-41-3 20-30
Hydrotreated heavy naphthenic distillate solvent extract 064742-52-5 70-80
1.5 turns is way too much. Are you tightening this with a wrench or by hand?
The valve cover gaskets on the 92 4.0 are cork. The exhaust ports are so close to the gaskets that they literally cook them and turn them hard as a brick. Tightening the bolts may help for a few miles, but the leak will return. Ford has a re-designed gasket that is made of metal with a silicone bead. These gaskets work, but are a bear to replace. Your Dad's mechanic is right. Oil is lots cheaper.
Given that, the thicker the oil, the less it will leak.
I would try the MMO or Seafoam in the oil to see if it helps. I doubt it would do any harm at this point. AutoRx would be the preferred route, but I don't know if I would spend that kind of money on something I'm about to give away.
The valve cover gaskets on the 92 4.0 are cork. The exhaust ports are so close to the gaskets that they literally cook them and turn them hard as a brick. Tightening the bolts may help for a few miles, but the leak will return. Ford has a re-designed gasket that is made of metal with a silicone bead. These gaskets work, but are a bear to replace. Your Dad's mechanic is right. Oil is lots cheaper.
Given that, the thicker the oil, the less it will leak.
I would try the MMO or Seafoam in the oil to see if it helps. I doubt it would do any harm at this point. AutoRx would be the preferred route, but I don't know if I would spend that kind of money on something I'm about to give away.
Thanks again for the replies all!
C4Dave- If I do less than approx. 1.5 turns, the oil filter can still be easily turned by hand...it doesn't feel very well seated to the base at all - I turn by hand...I'm not Hurculeas either, probably more on the thin side.
I'd spend the money on the Auto-RX if I knew it wouldn't all leak out in a week.
The battery is only holding 4 amps after a day of charging, so, most likely it's nuked.
Off to AutoZone to get a new el cheapo to see if this thing fires up...
Chuck
C4Dave- If I do less than approx. 1.5 turns, the oil filter can still be easily turned by hand...it doesn't feel very well seated to the base at all - I turn by hand...I'm not Hurculeas either, probably more on the thin side.
I'd spend the money on the Auto-RX if I knew it wouldn't all leak out in a week.
The battery is only holding 4 amps after a day of charging, so, most likely it's nuked.
Off to AutoZone to get a new el cheapo to see if this thing fires up...
Chuck
Just pour in a crankcase full of Delo 400 15W-40. It does a better job with the gasket set and with engine noises than any oil I have ever used. Cross your fingers and drive it hard. If you have to drop the engine then it is best to find out close to home.
DaveJ- Another vote for the MMO and a 10W-30 or 10W-40 oil...looks like there might be a small trend occuring here on this thread...
texasproud- Yep, approx. one and a half...I go by more of a judge on if it's snug enough. 1/4 is a joke, no way I'd go that light. Heck, even a half turn and the filter is still fairly easy to turn.
427Z06- Is that what's really in MMO? Hmmm...hopefully consumption is low and Auto-RX can be used then. Mineral spirits sound somewhat unfriendly to old already leaking gaskets to me...
Pablo- It did not even occur to me at the time to go chase Fram...in retrospect, I should have.
Clyde65- I never use a wrench, no need...
Thanks again for the replies all!
Chuck
texasproud- Yep, approx. one and a half...I go by more of a judge on if it's snug enough. 1/4 is a joke, no way I'd go that light. Heck, even a half turn and the filter is still fairly easy to turn.
427Z06- Is that what's really in MMO? Hmmm...hopefully consumption is low and Auto-RX can be used then. Mineral spirits sound somewhat unfriendly to old already leaking gaskets to me...
Pablo- It did not even occur to me at the time to go chase Fram...in retrospect, I should have.
Clyde65- I never use a wrench, no need...
Thanks again for the replies all!
Chuck
I always tighten the oil filter as tight as I can get it Easily with 1 hand then about half turn with a wrench. I feel that if you cant take it off without a wrench it was too tight.
I'm not saying take it off EASILY without a wrench though.
If it were me I'd probably just get something like
wal-mart 10w-40 HM for 5.86/5qt or something equally cheap.. and if its leaking that much oil.. oil changes arent that important.. you are continually changing it.
I'm not saying take it off EASILY without a wrench though.
If it were me I'd probably just get something like
wal-mart 10w-40 HM for 5.86/5qt or something equally cheap.. and if its leaking that much oil.. oil changes arent that important.. you are continually changing it.
You'd consider putting in $20 worth of Rotella and RedLine, but $25 for AutoRX is too much? If you think it's going to all leak out you may as well just put in the cheapest dino you can find. Hopefully the new owners will check the oil everytime they stop for gasoline or the motor will shortly be history anyways.
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If the thing shows reasonable drivability when you get it started ..then I'd consider the damage to be "age advancing" more then "on the brink of catastrophic failure".
The relations appear on the "thin of wallet" side of life at the moment ...otherwise I'd surely recommend changing those valve cover gaskets when the engine is determined to be aged ..but functional.
The relations appear on the "thin of wallet" side of life at the moment ...otherwise I'd surely recommend changing those valve cover gaskets when the engine is determined to be aged ..but functional.
15W-40 Delo 400
5W-40 Shell Rotella
20W-50 High Mileage Oil
10W-40 High Mileage Oil
Since Valvoline Maxlife has a 'free after rebate' deal, I'd use Valvoline Maxlife.
I'd also consider adding 1/2 bottle of Valvoline Synthetic Oil Treatment VSOT NAPA Part # 066 to order it
My approach would good but less expensive oil change every 2500 miles... thicker oil and more additives.
5W-40 Shell Rotella
20W-50 High Mileage Oil
10W-40 High Mileage Oil
Since Valvoline Maxlife has a 'free after rebate' deal, I'd use Valvoline Maxlife.
I'd also consider adding 1/2 bottle of Valvoline Synthetic Oil Treatment VSOT NAPA Part # 066 to order it
My approach would good but less expensive oil change every 2500 miles... thicker oil and more additives.
I had a 208K mile 3.0 Aerostar. The 4.0 is a little different, but you can still roll bearings into it from the bottom side without pulling the engine if it's a 2wd. My 3.0 had a noisy bottom end when I bought it from Ford with 11K miles on it (demo/sales car), however it was even no rod was louder than any other the others. Still ran good after 208K when I gave it away. I have a 2001 4.0 SOHC that is also noisy in the basement, bought new from Ford with 9.9 miles on it and the UOA's are always fine. Change the oil and keep driving it. If you are really concerned you might drop the pan and look at the bearings. As long as the bearings don't spin, that thing will run a long, long time even with too much clearance in the big end of the rod. The bottom end will probably be junk when it's time for a rebuild though if you put many more miles on it.
yee haw i reckon its time to use 20w50 or get a new engine.
You could go with one of the deisel oils, its just that they will cost more than good old 10w30,10w40or 20w50, but then again the MMO will thin ya out a bit too, any of em should be fine. I am sure that the board or drip pan on the driveway wont mind any of em.
Rodbuckler- I'd considered that, but I've seen how that stuff flows, and it's not quick...a 10W-30 HDEO like the Rotella T I can find around here at Menards, or a 5W-40 like the Rotella T "Synthetic" that can be found most anywhere, I would consider. The 15W-40, little too think I think...
Rand- I tighten about a turn and a half by hand, but usually have to use a wrench to break them loose.
427Z06- I'd consider putting in the Rotella because it's cheap, and the Redline since it would add polarity and a heap of an amount of Moly to the Rotella. I surely wouldn't keep adding it as the oil ran out.
Auto-RX needs time to work. If they drive 50 miles locally in a week, and they have to put in 3 quarts of oil, there's no way the Auto-RX is going to help in any meaningful way. I'll conceed the point though that if it really does leak that much (anyone's guess at this point, I couldn't start it last night), the quart of Redline wouldn't help either.
Gary Allan- It's an Aerostar, so basically it's very reliable but the body is rusted down by the door sills/rocker panels.
It's just in no way worth it to us to fix it, and even if the my cousins family wanted to fix it, you're right, they don't have the cash. Shame, because it's been an extremely reliable vehicle.
Chuck
Rand- I tighten about a turn and a half by hand, but usually have to use a wrench to break them loose.
427Z06- I'd consider putting in the Rotella because it's cheap, and the Redline since it would add polarity and a heap of an amount of Moly to the Rotella. I surely wouldn't keep adding it as the oil ran out.
Auto-RX needs time to work. If they drive 50 miles locally in a week, and they have to put in 3 quarts of oil, there's no way the Auto-RX is going to help in any meaningful way. I'll conceed the point though that if it really does leak that much (anyone's guess at this point, I couldn't start it last night), the quart of Redline wouldn't help either.
Gary Allan- It's an Aerostar, so basically it's very reliable but the body is rusted down by the door sills/rocker panels.
It's just in no way worth it to us to fix it, and even if the my cousins family wanted to fix it, you're right, they don't have the cash. Shame, because it's been an extremely reliable vehicle.
Chuck
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