Dakota oil pressure woas

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Sep 29, 2009
Messages
114
Location
Central IN
As long as I've had this 97 Dakota it's had a tendency for the oil pressure to fall into the lower side of the normal band after the engine gets hot. I consulted an reliable mechanic and he assured me this is ok and we even checked it with a mechanical gauge...it was within manufacturer specks.

A few months later it developed a problem where it would take a very long time (like 20 secs or more) to build oil pressure if it was started when the engine was hot and had been sitting for about 5 to 10 minutes. So I went ahead and changed the oil pump. In the process I discovered that the pick up screen was about 50% plugged with sludge, and we suspect that could have been the cause of the problem.

Now 2 years later the pressure is again acting up. The last two days it has not shown as much top end pressure when the engine is above 2,000 RPM as it normally does some issue when cold; and even at 1,500 RPM it's showing the same pressure as idle (the pressure used to rise at 1,500 RPM). Fortunately it still never falls outside of the acceptable pressure but I want to resolve this issue before that happens.

I'm thinking maybe I could clean the screen again, possibly by draining the oil and pouring in a gallon of kerosene. Also I'm thinking of increasing the viscosity of oil from 5W-30 to 10W-30 (owners manual recommends both, 5W-30 preferred in cold weather). My last thought is that perhaps the oil has just lost viscosity, it's been in there for about 10 months and I haven't even put 2,00 miles on it yet (daily commute of about 5 miles one way).

Any thoughts?
 
Sounds like sludge again. I'd clean the screen and then go with some different/better oil and change it more often. I'd think your oil never really gets warmed up in 5 miles unless you really get on it.
 
Daniel,

I did a search for some Forums on the Dadota.
Maybe a gentleman on one of these may have the same problem and found a solution ...

Unless a good Mechanic with experience in here could nail it for you, that's the best i can offer.

Here's what i found:
http://townhall.edmunds.com/direct/view/ed_displayMakeModelRelatedDiscussions!make=Dodge&model=Dakota
http://www.dodgedakotas.com/board.htm
http://www.dakota-durango.com/


Good luck!

Francois
 
With the inside information available, the pick up screen is my first concern.
A 10-30 will not help vs. a 5-30 when hot, as they are the same.
 
Yeah actually I'm not to fond of the whole kerosene in the engine concept but I've seen a lot of people mention it. I did some searches on the forms mentioned by Francois. Lots of guys saying pressure fluctuation from hot to cold is normal, or needed a new oil pump or needed a new pressure sending unit. Interesting one guy mentioned adding 1/2 quart of lucus to his oil and that helped the pressure. Another guy mentioned doing a flush with seafoam and ATF, followed by a short run with cheap oil and then back to normal oil changes.

At this point I'm thinking try to come up with a way to clean the pick up screen, then maybe do a run with some MMO (seems lots of guys here have had really good luck with that).
 
Add 1/2 qt of MMO to your oil now and run it for 300 miles, then change the oil and filter and use a qt of MMO and run it for 1500 miles and see how it goes.

I'd then suggest 4 to 6 month oil change intervals with a 1/2 qt of MMO added. If it wasn't too big of a deal, you could check the pick up screen again ... the sending unit might also be at fault...but with the past history of sludge, I'd use MMO regularly.

Since MMO thins the oil a little, you could use 10w30 or you might even try a full qt of MMO with some HDEO in 15w40 during the warmer months, but right now, thinner might be better for getting better oil circulation and better cleaning.

Hope it clears up for ya.
 
A few short OCI with MMO will clean things up. After using MMO for the clean up I'd change the oil sending unit. It could be clogged up or going bad and giving false readings.
 
Yeah I think I feel more comfortable going the MMO route than trying to use kerosene. On the sending unit I think it might be better to get a manual gage to check the pressure with first as the sending unit on this truck is rather expensive.
 
Quote:
My last thought is that perhaps the oil has just lost viscosity, it's been in there for about 10 months and I haven't even put 2,00 miles on it yet (daily commute of about 5 miles one way).


If you know your engine has a sludge problem and you are taking short trips, then why run oil 10 months or more? 3 months to 6 months tops sounds safer. I'm not sure what kind of oil and filter you are running, but obviously it's not good enough to run it for over 5 months or so with short trips with this engine.
 
Originally Posted By: mechanicx
I'm not sure what kind of oil and filter you are running, but obviously it's not good enough to run it for over 5 months or so with short trips with this engine.


Been using Quaker State synthetic and NAPA Gold. Just seems like such a shame to dump the oil when it has only 500 to 600 miles on it, especially a synthetic.
 
Well it's not the oil and filter's fault or the low mileage, but time and short trips. Not that 10 months would normally be excessive but for this engine it appears to be. Have you ever sent your oil to be tested? Maybe you have a fuel dilution problem or a problem with your PCV, engine not warming up due to a thermostat sticking open, something along those lines maybe. Just taking the truck for a good 10+ mile run every few days would probably help.
 
Last edited:
I was thinking that 10 months wasn't too excessive. I was also considering of sending in a sample of this oil change to see if it would reveal something, if I do that though I think I probably shouldn't add MMO before draining. I changed the PCV about 10,000 miles back. As for the thermostat the truck does tend to be a bit slow on warming up, the previous owner told me he changed the thermostat several times because of that with no change but from talking with others I don't think it's as bad as he thought. Usually reaches full temp on the gage by the time I'm half way through my commute. I have been considering taking the long route home once a week...I guess maybe I should just start doing that.
 
During winter you could also block off a small section of the radiator with cardboard or something similar. That might get the engine to warm up a bit faster.
 
Well I sent in a sample from this run to see if it would shed any light on what's going on here. The viscosity was a little low and the wear levels were much higher than average for a run of only 2,000 miles: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/97-dakota-quaker-state-synthetic-5w30-2-094.130179/

I refilled with Valvaline durablend and 1/2 quart of MMO. The first two days after refilling the oil pressure worse than ever. Then later in the week it got much better, up to where it should be normally. But now a month later the pressure is weak again
frown.gif


I'm wondering if the MMO cleaned the screen intially and now sludge from up top is washing down into the pan and plugging it, or if maybe now that it's warming up outside the MMO is thinning the oil too much and that's causing low pressure. I'm thinking I'll try to refill in May without the MMO and see if the pressure get's better.
 
Just pour 2 qts of MMO into the crankcase and no oil. Let sit for a few days then drain and refill with your oil selection.
 
I'm pretty sure the problem has to be a viscosity issue. This morning it was cold out and the pressure was great again. Last week it was unseasonably hot out and the pressure was week. This tells me the oil is getting too thin when hot.
 
Cast iron old school motor. I'll bet that the
pickup screen is fine and that a thicker viscosity
is what that engine would like. HM 10w-30 minimum. I have a 98 Ford 4.0 pushrod with 109,000 miles speced for 5w-30; it works for me...
 
I have a 2001 V6 2WD Dakota with the 3.9. At 72,000 miles, running ConocoPhillips 5w30, oil pressure at 70 MPH, 2050 RPM runs at just about halfway up the scale on the gauge. At hot idle, it runs at the first mark on the gauge, which looks to be about 1/4 up the scale. Last summer, I ran Amsoil full synthetic 15w40 oil pressure and cruise and idle was a bit higher. This is also a short-trip vehicle (was a municiple truck). I too have used MMO to fix a lifter tick (worked like a charm). Best all around oil I have used in this truck is PYB 10w30.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom