Current top 0w-20’s?

Yes. After two low stress drives I came back with a hot lifter tick on an engine with a known history of cam/lifter problems. I wasn't going to press my luck when for 75.00 worth of oil and filter I could fix it. Not worth it.

Not to say that this oil wouldn't work well in another situation, just saying it didn't work in my experience.
 
I guess you've been lucky, but spend some time around here, and it's not hard to find people burning a lot of oil with good maintenance with quality synthetics. Very engine- and application-specific.
That's more a consequence of design or manufacturing flaws than anything else. If you have one of those engines, it probably doesn't matter much what you run, because it isn't going to overcome the design/manufacturing flaws, just as you point out.

And if you don't have one of those engines, it probably doesn't matter much either, because any oil within the manufacturer's recommended viscosity range and spec is going to be fine.
 
I(and my daughter) have two design flaws that have been remedied by oil choice. An engine with known oil consumption due to sticking oil control rings and an engine known to produce severe varnish. Both vehicles were bought new and followed a strict 5k oci regime by me. I was in the any quality synthetic oil boat for decades until it happened to me….not all oils are created equal especially in the engine/piston cleanliness department.
 
Last edited:
Late to this party but I ran Mobil 1 Extended Performance 0w20 in my 21 Gladiator at 5K OCIs. Regular used oil analysis showed it was doing fine.

Because of what I figured was severe duty which consisted of high temps in the NV desert, off-road use and hauling a small travel trailer on a regular basis, I went to Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5W-30. My engine was perfectly content with that also.
 
I see lots of discussion but no agreement of the question at hand "Who makes the best motor oil????" :):):cool:🍿🍿

Discussions like these go on for decades.

If your engine is well maintained to this point find the prettiest bottle, with proper API rating, and price range you are happy with and go with that.

If there is doubt that the inside is not squeeky clean, restore and protect has lots of reviews on youtube that indicate that it is not snakeoil and really does a good job of cleaning the engine. i had a similar expereince with Pennzoil Ultra in an used van I bought. First oil change oil came out looking pretty clear. I added Pennzoil ultra and the next oil change it was inkwell black. could not see through it at all. :O Next OCI was better..... 3 OCI later it was coming out amber color. That to me said it was cleaning lots of sludge left by the previous oil. (likely low detergent)

If you are trying to fix ticking lifters or other internal parts that fail due to bad design, good luck. Its a complete shot in the dark for those kinds of issues.
 
I(and my daughter) have two design flaws that have been remedied by oil choice. An engine with known oil consumption due to sticking oil control rings and an engine known to produce severe varnish. Both vehicles were bought new and followed a strict 5k oci regime by me. I was in the any quality synthetic oil boat for decades until it happened to me….not all oils are created equal especially in the engine/piston cleanliness department.
Maybe, but how do you measure that?

It's all anecdotes unless you can show the data behind what you are claiming.
 
Yes. After two low stress drives I came back with a hot lifter tick on an engine with a known history of cam/lifter problems. I wasn't going to press my luck when for 75.00 worth of oil and filter I could fix it. Not worth it.

Not to say that this oil wouldn't work well in another situation, just saying it didn't work in my experience.
Oil didn’t fix the cam/lifter issue. If your car has it, it will still fail. You may have kicked the can down the road a little, but no oil will fix a manufacturing defect.
 
Red Line 0w20 Noack - 5%.

1758821553145.webp
 
There’s no randomized controlled trial showing parachutes work to safely jump out of airplanes. Just anecdotes.
I'd guarantee there are indeed scientific studies about parachutes and equations that apply to the amount of weight, size of the canopy, and the altitude.

The Air Force doesn't f-around like that; I'm sure they have solid science backing up what parachutes and how many they put on the stuff they push out of planes. Similarly, NASA almost certainly figures out what parachutes they need, and what safety margins there are, and so forth. All backed by studies.

My point is that in the absence of studies and data, everything about what oil is better than others is mere conjecture. You can say that PP is better than Supertech, but how do you KNOW? It's all anecdotes and trying to extrapolate from some very sparse elements in the data sheets.
 
As of right now I think Mobil 1 ESP 0w20 Is the best because that's what's in my engine right now. When I switch to Pennzoil Ultra Platium 0w20 I will be on the bandwagon for that product.

I used Castrol EDGE Extended Performance 0w20 during my last OCI and it went from looking like honey when it was brand new to looking like very dark maple syrup by the time my OCI was finished.
 
I'd guarantee there are indeed scientific studies about parachutes and equations that apply to the amount of weight, size of the canopy, and the altitude.

The Air Force doesn't f-around like that; I'm sure they have solid science backing up what parachutes and how many they put on the stuff they push out of planes. Similarly, NASA almost certainly figures out what parachutes they need, and what safety margins there are, and so forth. All backed by studies.

My point is that in the absence of studies and data, everything about what oil is better than others is mere conjecture. You can say that PP is better than Supertech, but how do you KNOW? It's all anecdotes and trying to extrapolate from some very sparse elements in the data sheets.
Exactly. Until you can prove otherwise, oil is oil.
 
Back
Top Bottom