Jeep Gladiator 3.6 Oil consumption

[Camperguy]

Hi everyone,

I recently changed my oil on my 2021 Jeep Gladiator 3.6. Current oil run was 9.5k miles. Vehicle has 12k total lifetime. It has a 5qt sump and burned roughly 0.8 to 1.0 Quarts during this interval. So roughly 0.5 Quarts every 5k is the current average. I’m running Amsoil Signature 0W-20 with a Wix XP.

I’m thinking this is pretty normal for a new engine still breaking in. This oil change went through Minnesota Winter and towing a 5k lb trailer cross country once. No oil leaks or visible smoke. Here is a link to my oil analysis when oil was 7k old.

Jeep Gladiator 2021 3.6 Oil Analysis Results

Hi everyone, My first post here. Just wanted to share my first EOA. I changed the factory oil at 2,700 Miles with Amsoil Signature 0W-20 and a Wix XP filter in September 2021. Moved from FL to MN with a 5K lb trailer. During the winter engine idled 10-15 minutes on cold starts. I have stopped...

bobistheoilguy.com

I had to check, the Gladiator has a 5 qt pan Looks like they made some changes from the older models.

 

[Lavrishevo]

Zero consumption during my Tacoma break-in, current at 11487 miles. And I’m tuned and run her kind of hard at times. But I switched to 0w-40 almost immediately from the factory 0w-20 fill. I change every 5k.

 

[Camperguy]

Might give 0W-40 Mobile1 a shot next oil change.

 

[4WD]

I had to check, the Gladiator has a 5 qt pan Looks like they made some changes from the older models.

View attachment 207378

I can confirm my Rubicon is 5 quarts - my Charger was 6 quarts

 

[Camperguy]

the 2021 3.6L capacity is now 5quarts? It used to be 6...
i do remember reading something like ' the 3.6 pentastar has the most moving parts of any naturally aspirated gas V6 . '

iMO: if they reduced the capacity to 5 quarts I would not allow such a long drain interval with all those extra moving parts .
Even if the oil monitor says keep going. Lol
a 2014 3.6L all highway takes you well past 12,000 miles on regular oil.... a bit too long IMO. Any other thoughts?

 

[Lavrishevo]

Might give 0W-40 Mobile1 a shot next oil change.

It’s great oil. I run M1 Euro 0w-40 winter and 5w-40 summer. I also run Liqui Moly CeraTec. This has nothing to do with consumption, I just love how smooth my vehicle is with it. Fantastic cold start protection as well.

 

[JTK]

Sorry if I missed it. Is the 5qt thing standard across everything with a pentastar these days, or is this just a Jeep thing?

The pentastars I owned were all 6qt sumps. 2013 and 2017. My brother has a 2019 Ram 1500 with a 3.6 and 6qt sump.

 

[4WD]

It’s great oil. I run M1 Euro 0w-40 winter and 5w-40 summer. I also run Liqui Moly CeraTec. This has nothing to do with consumption, I just love how smooth my vehicle is with it. Fantastic cold start protection as well.

How often do you add LMCT ?

 

[Lavrishevo]

How often do you add LMCT ?

They say it last 25k miles but I generally put a bottle in every 15k or so.

 

[Camperguy]

Sorry if I missed it. Is the 5qt thing standard across everything with a pentastar these days, or is this just a Jeep thing?

The pentastars I owned were all 6qt sumps. 2013 and 2017. My brother has a 2019 Ram 1500 with a 3.6 and 6qt sump.

Seems like a lot of work to save 5Lbs. I wonder if that includes the almost 2lbs of oil I'm going to assume it's across all Pentastars.

 

[Fabulous50s]

My 2020 Pentastar is 6 qts, but that is the transverse unit. I run M1 Euro 0w-40. Used to run PP 5w-30. I have 65k in a Promaster 2500 extended, so I'm always hauling around 6,000 lbs.

 

[Camperguy]

My 2020 Pentastar is 6 qts, but that is the transverse unit. I run M1 Euro 0w-40. Used to run PP 5w-30. I have 65k in a Promaster 2500 extended, so I'm always hauling around 6,000 lbs.

I'm hesitant about a 0w oil just because It doesn't really get below 30f here in the winter and my garage doesn't get below 55F. Im going to assume a 0w flows better/faster on a cold start up so it helps to prevent engine wear on those few critical seconds so that's what I'm trying to balance. From some of the responses I've read on here on different threads ,It seems to some, ambient temperature is no longer a factor in oil viscosity decisions

 

[Fabulous50s]

I'm hesitant about a 0w oil just because It doesn't really get below 30f here in the winter and my garage doesn't get below 55F. Im going to assume a 0w flows better/faster on a cold start up so it helps to prevent engine wear on those few critical seconds so that's what I'm trying to balance. From some of the responses I've read on here on different threads ,It seems to some, ambient temperature is no longer a factor in oil viscosity decisions

It gets well below zero F here, so I've been using the 0w-40 in both my work van and my wife's car. Both call for 5w-20. I guess I'm a thickie and a thinnie all at the same time! Lol

 

[Camperguy]

Just covering all your bases

 

[Invisible]

I’m thinking this is pretty normal for a new engine still breaking in. This oil change went through Minnesota Winter and towing a 5k lb trailer cross country once. No oil leaks or visible smoke. Here is a link to my oil analysis when oil was 7k old.

The 3.6 Pentastar engines have pretty terrible PCV systems. I bet your intake is filled with oil. If you want to test this, just get a J&L oil catch can and hook it up in a few minutes, and check it after a couple of hundred miles. If it fills up fast, the PCV valve is your problem. Even when they work, they let a lot of oil into the intake manifold. You have nothing to loose if you go this route, because an oil catch can is preventative maintenance anyway. Don't worry about oil grade/brand/etc. These engines aren't hard on oil, but they have a bad PCV design. Good luck!

 

[Lavrishevo]

I'm hesitant about a 0w oil just because It doesn't really get below 30f here in the winter and my garage doesn't get below 55F. Im going to assume a 0w flows better/faster on a cold start up so it helps to prevent engine wear on those few critical seconds so that's what I'm trying to balance. From some of the responses I've read on here on different threads ,It seems to some, ambient temperature is no longer a factor in oil viscosity decisions

I run 5w-40 summer, 0w-40 winters. North GA winters are pretty mild as well. 0w-40 runs closer to a 35 weight at the hot viscosity.

 

[Bill7]

Dreaded 3.8? Some call this the dreaded 3.6!

Oil consumption typical only goes in one direction and is an indicator. How you translate that indicator is up to you. Its never a problem until it is. Goal is to break-in the engine and get that consumption down to zero, and maintain it well enough to keep it there. I won't comment on the lack of success of lower tension oil rings for longevity and oil consumption.

If it were my 3.6, I would change the oil/filter every 5000 miles, and seriously consider stepping up to synthetic 5w30 if the fuel doesn't taper down. 0w30 is a great choice if you live in a cold part of the state with cold winters. Oil pan and block heater would be smart if not garaged. That much diluted fuel with MPFI???? We'll just blame the winter, excessive idle warm up time, and 'possible' not enough longer commutes. Hopefully your future data improves.

Oil consumption is pretty normal for the 1st couple thousand miles. Oil consumption should be nil by now. Pretty sad how too many owners, and forum members, are accepting various engine issues as normalcy. I guess I would recommend checking oil every 1000 miles and adding the couple ounces needed at each check. I could care less what a dealer or automaker says concerning any oil consumption.

Concerning the UOA, fuel dilution is not acceptable even if normal. Cancer is normal and doesn't make it acceptable.

I wouldn't bother on extending intervals without seriously researching the engine's historical issues. Depending on driving style, that fuel will tear up the valvetrain, slowly and surely. And, any oil burned will crud up your rings leading to even more consumption.

Flushing the engine with solvents this early? Please, before doing anything, ask more questions. My flushing of my new engines were done by a few shorter oil change intervals and no solvents... on both newer cars in the driveway.... ~600 mile break-in oil change, and 4000, 8000, 12000 mile oil/filter change intervals. Both engines had oil consumption in the beginning that tapered off rapidly and was obvious with frequent weekly dipstick exercising. Both consumed much for the first few couple hundred miles and almost nothing after 2000 miles. That towing trip should've help get those engine parts properly seated!

I would skip Amsoil's marketing concerning their filters and oils. I am a fan of their products but will not blindly use them for extended runs just because they said to. It takes more than a little extra TBN, fancy base stocks, and good filtration to extend an oil change interval. If your fuel soaking oil doesn't taper off, then your interval should be shorter. You'll gather more UOAs and hopefully the fuel soaked oil goes away. If not, plan on more frequent oil changes which contradicts 'Signature' marketing.

Consider particle counts to see how well whatever filter you choose is doing. And, pay attention to engine noises.

And, I would not exceed whatever the auto manufacturer recommends for interval changes. Keep your warranty happy with a good log book of maintenance.

Btw, since 0w20 is your only recommended grade option, using any other grade is something for you to research. Both of my engines use, either a thicker grade at the OCI, or are spiked with a hopefully helpful amount. One engine is noisy and 1 quart of 5w40 is added to the automaker 0w20 and eliminates the noise. The other runs strictly now on 5w40(in place of the 5w20/5w30/10w30 recommendations).

For any oil consumption, if your are sticking with 0w20, consider adding a thicker 40 or 50 grade for that "quart" of topping off during your chosen interval.

From the owners manual:
Oil changes should be consistent with anticipated climate conditions under which vehicle operations will occur. Why? no grade choices, and intervals are determined by calendar, mileage, or the oil change indicator oil life monitoring system.

Under no circumstances should oil change intervals exceed 10,000 miles (16,000 km), 12 months or 350 hours of engine run time, whichever comes first. The "whichever comes first" that so many forget.... Does it come with a Hobbs meter for the 'remote starter' junkies?

The engine oil filter should be replaced with a new filter at every engine oil change. Don't fall for the "look at me crowd" using the oil filter 2x-3x intervals because of a box marketing label.

Very sound advice. Short oil change intervals, use thicker oil. I totally agree with everything you said above.

 

[kschachn]

I run 5w-40 summer, 0w-40 winters. North GA winters are pretty mild as well. 0w-40 runs closer to a 35 weight at the hot viscosity.

What's the viscosity range for a SAE 35-grade ("weight") oil?

 

[kschachn]

I'm hesitant about a 0w oil just because It doesn't really get below 30f here in the winter and my garage doesn't get below 55F. Im going to assume a 0w flows better/faster on a cold start up so it helps to prevent engine wear on those few critical seconds so that's what I'm trying to balance. From some of the responses I've read on here on different threads ,It seems to some, ambient temperature is no longer a factor in oil viscosity decisions

Unless you are starting at about -35 an oil with a 5W winter rating is functionally the same as one with a 0W winter rating. The winter rating is always about ambient temperature. There is no technical reason to be hesitant to use an oil with a 0W rating at any temperature.

And it's not really about flow with the winter rating. It's about cranking and pumpability. If it can be pumped it will flow.

 

[FastLane]

Way too long of an oci.