The Honda parts guy at the delership insists that a new crush washer be used. I told him the .75 cents was ridiculuous so he tossed me a few free ones.
Crush washers
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gathermewool
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Originally Posted By: qwerty1234
The Honda parts guy at the delership insists that a new crush washer be used. I told him the .75 cents was ridiculuous so he tossed me a few free ones.
That's pretty much what happened with my Subaru parts guy, except it was on crush washer with each filter that he started to ring up, and then let me keep when I said I didn't need it. Since installing the Fumoto I've made sure to let him know in advance, because I really don't want the extra washers.
The Honda parts guy at the delership insists that a new crush washer be used. I told him the .75 cents was ridiculuous so he tossed me a few free ones.
That's pretty much what happened with my Subaru parts guy, except it was on crush washer with each filter that he started to ring up, and then let me keep when I said I didn't need it. Since installing the Fumoto I've made sure to let him know in advance, because I really don't want the extra washers.
Originally Posted By: qwerty1234
The Honda parts guy at the delership insists that a new crush washer be used. I told him the .75 cents was ridiculuous so he tossed me a few free ones.
The problem is if you don't replace the washer you need increasing levels of torque to get it to deform and seat properly and that stresses the threads. With a fresh and soft washer it should basically seal by snugging it up.
The Honda parts guy at the delership insists that a new crush washer be used. I told him the .75 cents was ridiculuous so he tossed me a few free ones.
The problem is if you don't replace the washer you need increasing levels of torque to get it to deform and seat properly and that stresses the threads. With a fresh and soft washer it should basically seal by snugging it up.
Originally Posted By: Eddie
I like crush washers because you can feel the washer start to crush and stop. That way you have a leak proof seal and have only tightened the bolt to snug it rather than wrench it down double tight. I wish I could find when to buy in bulk other than the 99 cent apiece at the dealer. Ed
Precisely.
Obviously we have all reused crush washers at one time or another without a problem, but a crush washer is only intended to be used once.
Especially where the banjo bolt on your flexible Brake Lines attach to the Brake Callipers.
Single use is best practice at all times.
As mentioned above there is a discernible yield point when tightening a new crush washer and it's a product of the metallurgy of the washer.
They are typically aluminium or copper (depending upon application) and this is because both materials have similar tensile characteristics best suited to the intended task.
I have seen fastidious technicians anneal used crush washers in order to restore the virgin tensile characteristics of the material, and achieve the desired results.
But only in a pinch.
In some cases I have seen copper crush washers used exclusively as the factory installed item.
And the only material available was Aluminium as service replacements used for sump drain plugs.
Copper is always supplied as replacements for Brake Calliper connections, and for good reason.
Crush washers are cheap. If one is going to undertake work at home to save some money, I believe it's no problem to have a couple in stock of the correct size to carry out the task.
I can assure you that in a race application the Crush Washers are always(religiously) replaced by engineers to ensure the best durability in service.
I like crush washers because you can feel the washer start to crush and stop. That way you have a leak proof seal and have only tightened the bolt to snug it rather than wrench it down double tight. I wish I could find when to buy in bulk other than the 99 cent apiece at the dealer. Ed
Precisely.
Obviously we have all reused crush washers at one time or another without a problem, but a crush washer is only intended to be used once.
Especially where the banjo bolt on your flexible Brake Lines attach to the Brake Callipers.
Single use is best practice at all times.
As mentioned above there is a discernible yield point when tightening a new crush washer and it's a product of the metallurgy of the washer.
They are typically aluminium or copper (depending upon application) and this is because both materials have similar tensile characteristics best suited to the intended task.
I have seen fastidious technicians anneal used crush washers in order to restore the virgin tensile characteristics of the material, and achieve the desired results.
But only in a pinch.
In some cases I have seen copper crush washers used exclusively as the factory installed item.
And the only material available was Aluminium as service replacements used for sump drain plugs.
Copper is always supplied as replacements for Brake Calliper connections, and for good reason.
Crush washers are cheap. If one is going to undertake work at home to save some money, I believe it's no problem to have a couple in stock of the correct size to carry out the task.
I can assure you that in a race application the Crush Washers are always(religiously) replaced by engineers to ensure the best durability in service.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Brad_C
Originally Posted By: qwerty1234
The Honda parts guy at the delership insists that a new crush washer be used. I told him the .75 cents was ridiculuous so he tossed me a few free ones.
The problem is if you don't replace the washer you need increasing levels of torque to get it to deform and seat properly and that stresses the threads. With a fresh and soft washer it should basically seal by snugging it up.
Exactly.
Originally Posted By: qwerty1234
The Honda parts guy at the delership insists that a new crush washer be used. I told him the .75 cents was ridiculuous so he tossed me a few free ones.
The problem is if you don't replace the washer you need increasing levels of torque to get it to deform and seat properly and that stresses the threads. With a fresh and soft washer it should basically seal by snugging it up.
Exactly.
Over 130k miles and counting on the original washer in my Mazda.
Can somebody provide a link to packet of assorted crush washers? It would be great to have various sizes on hand before starting a job. When visit hardware store, I am never sure if the washer I am getting is the crush washer or not.
Use a new washer every time you change oil and tighten drain plug to the OEM spec if you have a torque wrench.Toyota has changed the oil drain plug gasket from a solid aluminum washer three or so mm thick to a thinner aluminum piece with a rubberized coating on both sides. New gasket probably won't require 33 ft lbs of torque like the original washer.
gathermewool
Site Donor 2023
Originally Posted By: Ducman
Originally Posted By: Eddie
I like crush washers because you can feel the washer start to crush and stop. That way you have a leak proof seal and have only tightened the bolt to snug it rather than wrench it down double tight. I wish I could find when to buy in bulk other than the 99 cent apiece at the dealer. Ed
Precisely.
Obviously we have all reused crush washers at one time or another without a problem, but a crush washer is only intended to be used once.
Especially where the banjo bolt on your flexible Brake Lines attach to the Brake Callipers.
Single use is best practice at all times.
As mentioned above there is a discernible yield point when tightening a new crush washer and it's a product of the metallurgy of the washer.
They are typically aluminium or copper (depending upon application) and this is because both materials have similar tensile characteristics best suited to the intended task.
I have seen fastidious technicians anneal used crush washers in order to restore the virgin tensile characteristics of the material, and achieve the desired results.
But only in a pinch.
In some cases I have seen copper crush washers used exclusively as the factory installed item.
And the only material available was Aluminium as service replacements used for sump drain plugs.
Copper is always supplied as replacements for Brake Calliper connections, and for good reason.
Crush washers are cheap. If one is going to undertake work at home to save some money, I believe it's no problem to have a couple in stock of the correct size to carry out the task.
I can assure you that in a race application the Crush Washers are always(religiously) replaced by engineers to ensure the best durability in service.
The brake system is one for which a new crush washer is used every single time (well, for the one or two times in the life of the car it might be disconnected!)
Originally Posted By: Eddie
I like crush washers because you can feel the washer start to crush and stop. That way you have a leak proof seal and have only tightened the bolt to snug it rather than wrench it down double tight. I wish I could find when to buy in bulk other than the 99 cent apiece at the dealer. Ed
Precisely.
Obviously we have all reused crush washers at one time or another without a problem, but a crush washer is only intended to be used once.
Especially where the banjo bolt on your flexible Brake Lines attach to the Brake Callipers.
Single use is best practice at all times.
As mentioned above there is a discernible yield point when tightening a new crush washer and it's a product of the metallurgy of the washer.
They are typically aluminium or copper (depending upon application) and this is because both materials have similar tensile characteristics best suited to the intended task.
I have seen fastidious technicians anneal used crush washers in order to restore the virgin tensile characteristics of the material, and achieve the desired results.
But only in a pinch.
In some cases I have seen copper crush washers used exclusively as the factory installed item.
And the only material available was Aluminium as service replacements used for sump drain plugs.
Copper is always supplied as replacements for Brake Calliper connections, and for good reason.
Crush washers are cheap. If one is going to undertake work at home to save some money, I believe it's no problem to have a couple in stock of the correct size to carry out the task.
I can assure you that in a race application the Crush Washers are always(religiously) replaced by engineers to ensure the best durability in service.
The brake system is one for which a new crush washer is used every single time (well, for the one or two times in the life of the car it might be disconnected!)
Originally Posted By: Vikas
Can somebody provide a link to packet of assorted crush washers? It would be great to have various sizes on hand before starting a job. When visit hardware store, I am never sure if the washer I am getting is the crush washer or not.
Why are you getting car parts from the hardware store.
Buy the part from your dealer or online dealer.
But get the right part. Search on ebay. If you stick within a brand say toyota then itll be the same. If you keep your car for awhile buy a bunch, not 1 washer every 6 minths.
In this case id say reuse the proper part before using a random part you bought at the hardware stoe that just "looks about right"
Can somebody provide a link to packet of assorted crush washers? It would be great to have various sizes on hand before starting a job. When visit hardware store, I am never sure if the washer I am getting is the crush washer or not.
Why are you getting car parts from the hardware store.
Buy the part from your dealer or online dealer.
But get the right part. Search on ebay. If you stick within a brand say toyota then itll be the same. If you keep your car for awhile buy a bunch, not 1 washer every 6 minths.
In this case id say reuse the proper part before using a random part you bought at the hardware stoe that just "looks about right"
Originally Posted By: Vikas
Can somebody provide a link to packet of assorted crush washers? It would be great to have various sizes on hand before starting a job. When visit hardware store, I am never sure if the washer I am getting is the crush washer or not.
Can't post a link but visit rockauto.com and drill down: Tools & universal parts; Engine; Oil drain; Oil drain plug gasket.
You may also find the right one listed in the engine section for your particular vehicle.
Can somebody provide a link to packet of assorted crush washers? It would be great to have various sizes on hand before starting a job. When visit hardware store, I am never sure if the washer I am getting is the crush washer or not.
Can't post a link but visit rockauto.com and drill down: Tools & universal parts; Engine; Oil drain; Oil drain plug gasket.
You may also find the right one listed in the engine section for your particular vehicle.
Maybe its just me, but I feel like some folks in this thread are assuming that a drain plug gasket and a crush washer are the same thing...
On previous vehicles I never changed the gasket, and didnt have an issue. Currently have a Subaru that has a crush washer, and it gets a new one with each oil change.
On previous vehicles I never changed the gasket, and didnt have an issue. Currently have a Subaru that has a crush washer, and it gets a new one with each oil change.
Originally Posted By: Clarkbug
Maybe its just me, but I feel like some folks in this thread are assuming that a drain plug gasket and a crush washer are the same thing...
On previous vehicles I never changed the gasket, and didnt have an issue. Currently have a Subaru that has a crush washer, and it gets a new one with each oil change.
So what does my 2001 f150 5.4 have and what size so i can buy? Currently M14 I believe
Maybe its just me, but I feel like some folks in this thread are assuming that a drain plug gasket and a crush washer are the same thing...
On previous vehicles I never changed the gasket, and didnt have an issue. Currently have a Subaru that has a crush washer, and it gets a new one with each oil change.
So what does my 2001 f150 5.4 have and what size so i can buy? Currently M14 I believe
From changing oil in relatives' cars, Hondas have thick and soft aluminum washers, while Nissans have funky-shaped copper washers. Inexpensive.... peace of mind....
I just use what is recommended by the manufacture. Keep it simple so there is little DRAMA in my life, like arguing whether or not to follow recommendations. Life can be simple and good or a constant, self made challenge. Ed
The washer "SHOULD" be changed every time. Most people don't do it, and most don't ever have a problem. It is cheap insurance, and I have several washers somewhere after buying a pack of them. I usually go plenty of oil changes before changing the washer. I've never had one leak, hope I didn't just jinx it!
The tractors at home all have their original crush washers. The oldest one is pushing 25 years old. No leaks whatsoever.
The previously hooker owned Audi A4 on the other hand needs a new one. It had an engine swap last winter so I am not sure what all the used from the original engine.
The previously hooker owned Audi A4 on the other hand needs a new one. It had an engine swap last winter so I am not sure what all the used from the original engine.
Got lazy once when I was changing oil, flipped the washer around, reused it...got a slow leakage...lesson learned.
Originally Posted By: zach1900
Can't I just use the same one until it's paper thin, I mean isn't that the point of them, to keep crushing? specifically the oil pan drain bolt.
The crush washer for a drain plug is designed to be crushed once, then replaced.
I worked in quick lubes for years and had MANY customers come back to have the drain plug gasket replaced because it had not been replaced.
Replace them each time, they are inexpensive.
Can't I just use the same one until it's paper thin, I mean isn't that the point of them, to keep crushing? specifically the oil pan drain bolt.
The crush washer for a drain plug is designed to be crushed once, then replaced.
I worked in quick lubes for years and had MANY customers come back to have the drain plug gasket replaced because it had not been replaced.
Replace them each time, they are inexpensive.
Originally Posted By: Eddie
I just use what is recommended by the manufacture. Keep it simple so there is little DRAMA in my life, like arguing whether or not to follow recommendations. Life can be simple and good or a constant, self made challenge. Ed
Imagine if we put so much thought into everything else in life as we do into oil choice, filter choice, OCI, whether or not to use a new crush washer, etc.
I just use what is recommended by the manufacture. Keep it simple so there is little DRAMA in my life, like arguing whether or not to follow recommendations. Life can be simple and good or a constant, self made challenge. Ed
Imagine if we put so much thought into everything else in life as we do into oil choice, filter choice, OCI, whether or not to use a new crush washer, etc.
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