2022 Crosstrek Drain Plug Crush Washer Replacement

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Big problems on some newer Outbacks with the rear suspension alignment geometry wearing the inside edges (2") of both rear tires making tires un seviceable in less than 20K miles. Makes a sound liek a failing wheel bearing or failing rear differential.

Happened to my wife's NEW outback base, We traded the junkbox for a Japanese-built 2023 Crosstrek,
 
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Big problems on some newer Outbacks with the rear suspension alignment geometry wearing the inside edges (2") of both rear tires making tires un seviceable in less than 20K miles. Makes a sound liek a failing wheel bearing or failing rear differential.

Happened to my wife's NEW outback base, We traded the junkbox for a Japanese-built 2023 Crosstrek,

You traded in your vehicle for a downgrade because it needed an alignment?
 
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I gotta say, the GM drain bolts with the rubber gasket are by far superior to any other manufacturers setup.

With that being said, round side should go towards the pan, but even installed “backwards” they still don’t leak in my observation.
 
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Most Honda sites and even a few dealers have said the flat side goes to the pan the round side to the bolt head.. That is the way I have been doing it for years with never a leak..
This makes no sense. Oil leaks from the pan, the crush side (Round side) is the side that is suppose to deform. The flat side is for the bolt head. By deforming the washer to the bolt, you are preventing a leaky bolt?
 
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I got a 5 pack of plastic washers from the help section and have only used one in 4 years. With the aluminum ones I flip them around every time. When I have to use a plyers to screw them off them it's out they go.
 
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Almost all washers have a rounded side from being stamped out. You should face the rounded side away from the bolt head against the object to be fastened. Otherwise the flat side, which really isn't flat will flatten and loosen.
 

hrv

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This makes no sense. Oil leaks from the pan, the crush side (Round side) is the side that is suppose to deform. The flat side is for the bolt head. By deforming the washer to the bolt, you are preventing a leaky bolt?
thats because honda washers are flat on both sides...I checked a bag of them I have...
 
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I've never seen a peer revieved thesis on oil pan crush washers, interesting. 🤔

The rounded face goes towards the oil pan, the flat face towards the drain bolt. You replace it every oil change. Torque the drain plug with a new correctly installed crush washer to spec. That's all there is to it.

If you love your Subaru, you will do this right.
 
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This is what I've always done. Nissan and Subaru drain plug washers are the same. In my experience if you put the flat side of the washer towards the oil pan, you can use a small flat blade screwdriver to pry the old washer enough so you can thread it off the bolt. I'd much rather have a flat aluminum washer.
I tend to replace the crush washer with a copper washer from the hardware store. They last forever.
 
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This makes no sense. Oil leaks from the pan, the crush side (Round side) is the side that is suppose to deform. The flat side is for the bolt head. By deforming the washer to the bolt, you are preventing a leaky bolt?

But what about the oil that works its way through the threads to the bolt head?

1669407764563.jpg
 
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If you place the washer with the round side towards the bolt head it becomes the slipping side and distorted when tightening. Maybe even torn. The "slipping" surface is the flat side and should be towards the bolt head.
 
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Okay, fine, here is a little bit more for The Crush Washer Doctorate Thesis: the reason why you want the rounded side towards the the oil pan is so that the washer forms a tight lip around the oil pan drain hole that so slightly protrudes inside (you can measure it in thousands of an inch). That's all that's keeping the oil from leaking out. That's the reason why you should replace it with every oil change.
 
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Okay, fine, here is a little bit more for The Crush Washer Doctorate Thesis: the reason why you want the rounded side towards the the oil pan is so that the washer forms a tight lip around the oil pan drain hole that so slightly protrudes inside (you can measure it in thousands of an inch). That's all that's keeping the oil from leaking out. That's the reason why you should replace it with every oil change.

You're basically asking a bunch of know-it-alls to admit they're wrong and that they have been wrong for years. Not gonna happen.
 

RevRider

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Reading all the reply's.

When I bought the washer I asked the Parts Department folks, two of them, they said the flat side goes to the pan, the round side to the bolt head.

Not saying they were right, and I didn't mis-hear, asked them twice, then I recorded it on paper before I left the parts counter.

As I read the posts, there seems to be logical reasoning for just the opposite.

I checked the bolt today, no drips. :)
 
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Okay, fine, here is a little bit more for The Crush Washer Doctorate Thesis: the reason why you want the rounded side towards the the oil pan is so that the washer forms a tight lip around the oil pan drain hole that so slightly protrudes inside (you can measure it in thousands of an inch). That's all that's keeping the oil from leaking out. That's the reason why you should replace it with every oil change.
Guess I've been doing it all wrong all these years and lucky. Doing it wrong with no leaks.
And the Air Force is wrong too. I do it the way I was taught in the AF F-16 school.
 
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Not saying they were right
There's a reason why they work in the parts department. Must be the same reason why it takes them forever to find the parts that customers and techs look for. Sometimes, they don't find them, at all. I wonder why that is?🤔 What do you think?
 

RevRider

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There's a reason why they work in the parts department. Must be the same reason why it takes them forever to find the parts that customers and techs look for. Sometimes, they don't find them, at all. I wonder why that is?🤔 What do you think?
Rod, that's what I am thinking also. :)
 
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