Critique my plan of attack

Shaman · Mar 8, 2006

New to me used car coming. I am armed with LC, FP, brake parts cleaner, carb cleaner, acetone, Case of Chevron Dex3 and water.

The plan:

10 oz of LC into the oil and 2 into the tranny fluid (CVT/Continuously Variable Tranny)
Drive for a few days

Friday night
Remove air lid and spray in Brake/Carb cleaner or water with engine running

1 oz LC into each spark plug. let sit overnight

Saturday
Pull coil thingy and plugs.
Turn car over to clean out

Install plugs, start car. Drive for 15 minutes.

Drain oil.

Install much longer AA 3600 that will hopefully have the right gasket size. IF not, add new oil, and drive to store for new filter then install.

Put used oil back into oil container for recycling.

Drain trans pan through plug. Remove pan if easy. Refill with correct fluid. Repeat a few times during the year. I don’t think a car this old needs to be flushed.

Suck and fill the power steering fluid. Repeat several times. Add 1 oz of LC.

Lastly, one question

I bought NGK BKR6E plugs for my current car. I don’t want to use them on a car that is leaving the herd. The Nissan takes 5E’s, which I think are one range (colder?) What problem would I have, without having seen the old plugs, in changing heat ranges, aside from better or worse gas mileage.

Matt_S · Mar 8, 2006

If you're too hot, the engine will knock. Not hot enough will cause incomplete combustion. With some engines, you can get away with hotter or colder plugs, but I don't know if this is the case with your car.

The only thing I'd add to your plan is to cover all the spark plug holes with a towel when you crank it over so you don't wind up with an LC/carbon paste all over your engine compartment.

Also, do you know if this car has a servicable trans filter? If so, definitely change it. I agree that you shouldn't flush it, though. A pan drop would definitely be good, if possible. It's always good to clean up all the junk that accumulates there.

robbobster · Mar 8, 2006

I notice you have acetone on your parts list, but not in your plan of attack.

Is there a pedicure in your future?

Shaman · Mar 9, 2006

Matt, I don't think that I can buy a trans filter here, but I will check into it. I can buy oil filters, but I don't know about trans filters. Anything farther than oil and plugs has to be done by a professional. Just the way things are done here. No where to buy alternators and all that stuff. They have to be disposed of blah blah blah, so they don't sell them to normal people, they keep them in the shops.

Robbobster, I am currently testing Acetone in the current car, and wanted to list it in case there was a suggestion about using it to clean or something like that.

I tested FP for 2 months, and no discernable difference. Started acetone, first tank didn't show anything, second seems a little better. I will try the same thing with the March, and will try FP3K when the singapore distributor gets the qt bottles in.

got boost? · Mar 9, 2006

what are you trying to do? is there something wrong with the car? it sounds as though you don't know anything about cars. are you trying to damage the car?

obbop · Mar 9, 2006

Liquid Glass!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Shaman · Mar 9, 2006

Trying to damage the car? What are you talking about? The car is old, I want to get it back up to good specs, and hopefully get some better gas mileage.

Nothing I have stated hasn't been tried at least 5 times and posted on this website. Please explain to me how i don't know anything about cars.

Shaman · Mar 9, 2006

All I am talking about doing is fluid changes and a Molasoak. DO'nt see how any of that is out of the ordinary. Please correct me if I am wrong.

quote:

Originally posted by MolaKule:

The "MOLASOKE" for pistons and rings involves removing the sparkplugs and pouring in about 2-3 oz. of LC into each cylinder and letting it soak for at least an hour.

Then take a 1/2" or 3/4" drive ratchet wrench with the proper socket and turn your crankshaft 1 revolution very slowly. Do NOT use the starter to turn crankshaft.

Let soak some more overnight and then shine a light into the cylinders to make sure the LC has run past the rings or you may have hydrolock. Replace plugs and start engine outside.

SWHeat · Mar 9, 2006

Sounds like a good plan to me. I guess some of us here have never purchased a used car before. Changing the fluids and cleaning up the combustion chamber is a good start to giving a car a second life.

Tosh · Mar 9, 2006

quote:

Originally posted by Shaman:
Matt, I don't think that I can buy a trans filter here, but I will check into it. I can buy oil filters, but I don't know about trans filters. Anything farther than oil and plugs has to be done by a professional. Just the way things are done here. No where to buy alternators and all that stuff. They have to be disposed of blah blah blah, so they don't sell them to normal people, they keep them in the shops.

I was wondering why everyone was playing pachinko and singing karaoke instead of working on their cars.

Shaman · Mar 9, 2006

It's not that they don't take the time, it's that it 's not really worth it in the long run. I, not being Japanese, and a member of BITOG, have more reason, and I guess you could say desire to keep the car up and running, and maybe save a kmpl or two. will it be worth it, maybe, but knowing that the old car can make it will make it a little easier to sleep, plus I get to drive the first car to ever have a continuously variable transmission.

ChiTDI · Mar 9, 2006

Shaman - if it's a CVT, are there specific specs for the fluid?
I know Ford CVT will self destruct by design with the wrong fluid.

got boost? · Mar 10, 2006

The plan:

2 into the tranny fluid (CVT/Continuously Variable Tranny)
Drive for a few days
--ABSOLUTELY DON'T DO THIS!!!

Friday night
Remove air lid and spray in Brake/Carb cleaner
--this won't do anything useful and may cause damage depending on what materials are used in the intake
or water with engine running
--this won't do anything in a short time span, water may pool in the intake piping

1 oz LC into each spark plug. let sit overnight
Saturday
Pull coil thingy and plugs.
Turn car over to clean out
--you first remove the plugs to add whatever to the CC, be sure to clean out the plug recess with air first before removing the plugs.

Install plugs, start car. Drive for 15 minutes.

Drain oil.

Install much longer AA 3600 that will hopefully have the right gasket size. IF not, add new oil, and drive to store for new filter then install.
--get the correct filter

Put used oil back into oil container for recycling.
--good

Drain trans pan through plug. Remove pan if easy. Refill with correct fluid. Repeat a few times during the year. I don’t think a car this old needs to be flushed.
--fine

Suck and fill the power steering fluid. Repeat several times. Add 1 oz of LC.
--drain and refill if you feel the need, however, use no additives

I bought NGK BKR6E plugs for my current car. I don’t want to use them on a car that is leaving the herd. The Nissan takes 5E’s, which I think are one range (colder?) What problem would I have, without having seen the old plugs, in changing heat ranges, aside from better or worse gas mileage.
--they may be okay to run, but get the correct plugs

your time/effort would be much better spent inspecting/replacing the brakes (flush the brake fluid), balljoints, lights, and cleaning the exterior/interior.

CoosBayDave · Mar 10, 2006

Even though it's an older car I think you're into technical overkill. But if you don't mind doing the work and it makes you feel better.... go for it. At least this way you'll have an idea of the bottom line. And I agree with the post above... brakes, lights, balljoints.....

jamesn · Mar 10, 2006

you might as well replace the plug wires while you are at it. what kind of car is it? i only know of subaru justy and honda civic with CVT.

also, get a shop vac and a foot of soft coppper tube and suck the "molasoak" out of the spark plug holes. you will get more of the crap out that way quicker.

are you going to do a water blast through the intake? its worth a shot.

Shaman · Mar 10, 2006

quote:

Originally posted by ChiTDI:
Shaman - if it's a CVT, are there specific specs for the fluid?
I know Ford CVT will self destruct by design with the wrong fluid.

Manuals for the CVT from 92-02 shows Dex 2 in England and Singapore. I will check in the owner's manual when I get the car. Since 2 isn't made anymore, then 3 would be the next step. Nissan CVT was spec'd for the 2000-02 1.4 liter Micra

Shaman · Mar 10, 2006

quote:

Originally posted by jamesn:
you might as well replace the plug wires while you are at it. what kind of car is it? i only know of subaru justy and honda civic with CVT.

also, get a shop vac and a foot of soft coppper tube and suck the "molasoak" out of the spark plug holes. you will get more of the crap out that way quicker.

are you going to do a water blast through the intake? its worth a shot.

Nissan March was the first vehicle to run the CVT, which was sourced from Subaru, or so says wikipedia.

Coil packs seem to be located on top of the spark plugs. Kinda sucks getting the manual shipped here, and not having the car to look at makes this difficult to explain to you guys and to myself.

Shaman · Mar 10, 2006

quote:

Originally posted by got boost?:
The plan:

2 into the tranny fluid (CVT/Continuously Variable Tranny)
Drive for a few days
--ABSOLUTELY DON'T DO THIS!!!

Is there some magic in this tranny that doesn’t let it run with 2 oz of LC that all other trannies can?

quote:

Friday night
Remove air lid and spray in Brake/Carb cleaner
--this won't do anything useful and may cause damage depending on what materials are used in the intake
or water with engine running
--this won't do anything in a short time span, water may pool in the intake piping

There is no intake piping. The air filter lid I am referring is mounted on top of the intake manifold. On the left side is a tb screen and the right side is the air filter. I guess I could say I have a Top mount air filter. I don’t see how anything could pool at that angle

quote:

1 oz LC into each spark plug. let sit overnight
Saturday
Pull coil thingy and plugs.
Turn car over to clean out
--you first remove the plugs to add whatever to the CC, be sure to clean out the plug recess with air first before removing the plugs.

I will do what I can with canned air.

quote:

Install plugs, start car. Drive for 15 minutes.

Drain oil.

Install much longer AA 3600 that will hopefully have the right gasket size. IF not, add new oil, and drive to store for new filter then install.
--get the correct filter

Put used oil back into oil container for recycling.
--good

Drain trans pan through plug. Remove pan if easy. Refill with correct fluid. Repeat a few times during the year. I don’t think a car this old needs to be flushed.
--fine

Suck and fill the power steering fluid. Repeat several times. Add 1 oz of LC.
--drain and refill if you feel the need, however, use no additives

quote:

I bought NGK BKR6E plugs for my current car. I don’t want to use them on a car that is leaving the herd. The Nissan takes 5E’s, which I think are one range (colder?) What problem would I have, without having seen the old plugs, in changing heat ranges, aside from better or worse gas mileage.
--they may be okay to run, but get the correct plugs

Parents are checking on them right now in America. Seems they have changed plug numbers.

You have to change your perspective on a lot of things here. Car parts store look like tire shops, and are stocked like the front half of your Pep Boys. Rice parts, with some windshield wipers, and oil stuff. Actual parts, can’t be purchased. They have to be installed.

Second, imagine that anal- retentive guy that works on cars. He hears a noise, it’s gotta get fixed. It looks at him wrong, bam. He was trained here.
Inspection isn’t turn signals and light checks with a short drive. My boss got an inspection, and had to get her radiator, ps hose, and a tie rod I think, replaced. It makes CA inspection look like a night on the town with a hot girl.

quote:

your time/effort would be much better spent inspecting/replacing the brakes (flush the brake fluid), balljoints, lights, and cleaning the exterior/interior.

Cars get $500 to $1500 inspections here every 2-5 years. A year ago they passed the test, but I will be under the car checking what I can too. Talking about basic inspection stuff on an oil/car nut website just didn’t seem very important. I will do what I can, but the problem again, is that the manual is being bought from England, and I can’t really get into the brakes. I think that I can buy brake fluid, but after that, it’s not on any shelf, and it has to go to the shop.

Shaman · Mar 11, 2006

Repair manual is on the way, and I found out yesterday that I can buy brake pads. So when the wheels come off, I may be getting new pads.

Critique my plan of attack

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