Crimped electrical connections

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Mar 21, 2004
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I have done some reading about crimped electrical connections. Knew some, learned some

A few things I learned:
1) cheap connectors don't have the seam brazed.
2) cheap connectors may say 3M and that's kind of true but in reality only the insulator was made by 3M nor the entire connection. 3m
3) most or many of the crimping tools are cheap. The good ones have wide jaws and ratchet.

Here are my observations:
1) good are heat sink adhesive connectors that you single crimp.
2) also good are connectors that are made to be double crimped. Assuming you have a double crimper.
3) a plain single crimp connector with heat shrink tubing providing strain relief for the wire is fine also
3) not so good is a single crimp with nothing extra.

I have gone to almost 100% Ancor connectors and I have their single and double ratchet crimper.

Comments?
 
They make connectors other than butt connectors that are heat shrink adhesive. The StaKon type of connector is fine as far as the electrical connector goes, but without heat shrink tubing over the connector going into the wire insulation there is no strain relief for the wire. While it may not be necessary in every situation, it's always better to have it.
 
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This. For me: Anchor or whatever Aircraft Spruce carries. There is just so much junk out there....and this is a lesson you learn the hard way.
No "h" in Ancor.

I have probably 20 little clear containers of Ancor connectors in various sizes and types. And I have probably 1/10 of the sizes & types they sell.

Who knew they made disconnects with different width tabs?
 
2) cheap connectors may say 3M and that's kind of true but in reality only the insulator was made by 3M nor the entire connection. 3m
What name is on the packaging ? If I buy a package of insulated, ring or fork terminals, in a 3M bag, I have to presume 3M made the metal connector as well as the insulated sleeve. Who would think otherwise ?
 
What name is on the packaging ? If I buy a package of insulated, ring or fork terminals, in a 3M bag, I have to presume 3M made the metal connector as well as the insulated sleeve. Who would think otherwise ?
I think it's the items listed on Amazon and eBay that say "3M" are the ones they are talking about. Sacrifice one connector and peel away the insulation and look at the joint. Is it brazed? I think if you buy electrical connectors from store like Home Depot or Lowes or NAPA or Walmart and the bag or container says 3M you should be OK.

I saw some self adhesive cable clips on Amazon and it says "3M" in the listing but the brand was not 3M. I think that's what the article I read was referring to.
 
I think it's the items listed on Amazon and eBay that say "3M"
I see tons of stuff that use, and emphasize, that they use 3M double-sided adhesive, for example, but the main part itself is some other brand.
 
For a person with OCD, this rabbit hole is a VERY deep one. Properly made crimp connections (cold weld) made with quality terminals and tools equals and usually is better than soldered joints for vibrating vehicles, boats, and aircraft. Lots of debate in the car restoration forums. Not so much in the marine and aviation ones.
 
For a person with OCD, this rabbit hole is a VERY deep one. Properly made crimp connections (cold weld) made with quality terminals and tools equals and usually is better than soldered joints for vibrating vehicles, boats, and aircraft. Lots of debate in the car restoration forums. Not so much in the marine and aviation ones.
Agree, and I would also argue that in most field, as in non factory applications, a crimp is easier to get right. Now we can talk strain relief, cable support requirements ;-)
 
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I hate crimp terminals, but that’s probably because I’ve only ever used cheap ones with junky crimpers.
I found that the crimps at HF aren't bad, but their ratcheting crimpers are junk. I use some old pair of crimpers that I'd have to look up, but, I'm only doing hobbyist stuff, not stuff that goes into orbit (only when it fails to work and I toss it into the woods). Otherwise I get blister packs marked 3M from Home Depot or similar. YMMV.
 
Crimps in general are (mostly) not allowed in hi-rel space electronics, but there are exceptions. Solder cup pins for connectors are often used. Splices almost never- solder splices if customer approved.

Crimps can be reliable if the process is tightly controlled and every step meticulous, pull tests show process is in control, and operators and inspectors trained and extra scrupulous.
 
Ratcheting crimpers aren't necessary unless you're doing some high volume wiring , larger size wire , etc. I've done control wiring in Nuclear facilities that specified a particular type and model of crimper . Since it was located in the " Controlled Area " the tools were issued from the Hot Tool Room . They never left the Controlled Area , and if you brought anything in from outside chances are it stayed behind when you left . Interesting times ..
 
Using the correct certified crimpers and terminals will not result in failure. The aircraft industry uses crimps for most connections. Crimped splice terminals are used in the industry with zero issues.

DIY ratchet crimpers and terminals from well-known companies can be purchased for a reasonable price and will give a reliable crimp if the person follows the supplied instructions.
 
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