Could synthetic have saved this Camry?

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I do remember that oil consumption could be a problem if the PCV screen on the cars got plugged. That was an odd design, there being that metal mesh "filter" located below the PCV valve in the back of the intake, so you clearly couldn't see it.

It SOUNDS like you are describing the last couple of years just before they went roller?

As far as rotating assembly went, the HO got a different one from the LoPo (and had forged pistons up until 92), can't remember if the truck and panther cars got the same one or not? I know the cars had cast pistons. They obviously got different cams and the cars were roller from like 85 or 86 onward and SEFI, while the trucks were batch-fire. LoPo cars didn't get the E7TE's either, IIRC? been a few years though since I was deep in the 5.0L scene, so I may be forgetting or mis-remembering some of this.

I did skim the truck forum TSB's last night after you mentioned it and didn't see anything mentioning rings. Did see some stuff on engine knocking and oil fill procedure. You have piqued my interest, so if you can remember anything else, please let me know.
It's really as simple as that rings are more than likely the problem in this case.

Edit to @Rand

you keep trying to post as an expert

I do not, though I appreciate your thirst for Toyota information.

Rand, not only do people at Toyota talk about the product, what uses what, what has issues just like Nissan JATCO transes.. but its pretty well known from readily available info that Toyota's shot at this wasn't the best. Obviously I was part of production of the car. Never unwrapped an engine... unloaded some.. still though, Toyota isn't really the amazing golden vehicle some think they are, this is to address your post that I post "as an expert," nope, I'm just your garden variety idiot having worked there, seen why I'd never look at the (newer models) the same way, and then this engine and the 1ZZ, with their well known shortcomings.. may have even been remedied by now. (You can think I'm an expert if you want.. I'm an employee that got an inside look and was a part of a team. That fed every part of the process. But enough about me. That's the problem with message boards. Trust me, you'd think some are. But are they? Are they.)

We also FFed the 0W-16, not sure where everyone gets 0W-20 from. I believe that transition has completed. For cclarification. That would have been done in Final.. I'd love to talk to you about Toyota.

Now I could go posting videos of oil-consuming Toyota engines and their fixes. But that would be a de-rail..
 
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UncleDave

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I hope my engine isn't burning that much at 300k miles.

This is the problem with poeple standing on a high number as an accomplishment - there is no context in a mere mileage number that accounts for the condition of the engine.

You can push just about any old leaky mill to a high number if you can put up with consumption, loss of power and tons of blow by.

It was probably what california would consider a "gross polluter" at 250, or maybe even 200.

This engine owes nothing to anyone, it delivered what was paid for.
 
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It's really as simple as that rings are more than likely the problem in this case.
you keep trying to post as an expert.. what did you do at toyota? clean the restroom? stock stations?
Pardon me if you driving a forklift or cleaning a urinal doesnt make me think you are an expert.
 
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What impressed me here is - this engine burned through 100qts of top-offs oil, yet catalytic converter is still chugging along at over 300,000 miles.

But some keyboard warriors around here scream and pound about some oils killing the catalytic converters in short-term use...

At the end of the day - impressive achievement for the owner, and little to no doubt that this vehicle will get another 300,000 miles, maybe with even less issues.
 
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Thermo1223

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You probably didn't pay attention to the whole video. Start at around 13:22, as he shows the inherent flaw of the 2AZ engine that causes the oil burning.

Also, around 17:00 minutes, he makes a comment about the varnish, which he said wasn't that bad.

For a 300,000 mile engine, using likely mostly Group III engine oil, what do you expect?
He also reused the timing chains & the oil pump which if you are installing a new short block why even risk it? I watched the whole thing thank you though and he commented on the completely seized oil control rings. It was quite obvious there was loads of deposits there again probably from a bulk oil again, would a steady diet of synthetic saved them knowing it could be an issue later on.
 
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Something other than bulk Jiffylube? I can't imagine they are keeping a 0wXX in stock for them.
Haha ! I'd venture to say that the majority of cars built in the past 10 years spec 0W-20 oil and that's the oil most quick-oil-change places stock the most of. You say it like 0W-20 is an exotic, uncommon oil grade.
 
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Yes, synthetic oil at 5000 mile intervals like Mobil 1 would have it still running as opposed to being on a youtube video. I would bet that 99.9% of the Bitog Members here do not use the cheapest oil they can get there hands on. I am also willing to guess that a cheap oil is good 4 5000 miles or less, and an oil like Mobil 1 is good for more than 5000 miles or so. Beyond that you would need an Oil Analysis with a TBN.

A 5 quart jug of Pennzoil Platinum with an oil filter that you get at the store will be around $30.00 or so. But the person that goes to Jiffy Lube and gets a price of over $100.00 for a synthetic oil change may go the cheaper route.
 
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He also reused the timing chains & the oil pump which if you are installing a new short block why even risk it? I watched the whole thing thank you though and he commented on the completely seized oil control rings. It was quite obvious there was loads of deposits there again probably from a bulk oil again, would a steady diet of synthetic saved them knowing it could be an issue later on.
The owner DIY'd his oil changes. So unless the owner directly purchased 50 gallon drums of oil from some place, it's probably not bulk oil. The shop owner (a Toyota master technician) reused the stuff that didn't need to be replaced, saving the owner some money, but the money saved went into the head work.

The Fram OCOD suggests he probably bought whatever he liked when it came time to oil changes, and we are not privy to the records of the oil changes (and it's really none of our business).

Bulk oil isn't always a bad thing. When I lived in NJ, a shop I went to used bulk oil. It was Fuchs Titan SuperSyn 5w40 in 50 gallon drums. The CA Audi/VW indy shop I used used bulk Motul 5w40 oil, in 55 gallon drums.
 
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That was my point. I've seen a brand new Lexus at Jiffy Lube or Audi at Firestone locally and you know **** well they aren't using the right oil because if they were it would be more than the dealership price!
It's not like your VW Tiguan, which requires 508.00/509.00 oil. Toyota/Lexus specifies loose requirements for their engines, oil weight and API standard. That's it.

Even the Lexus LF-A is that simple. 5w50, API SM/SN.,
 
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It's not like your VW Tiguan, which requires 508.00/509.00 oil. Toyota/Lexus specifies loose requirements for their engines, oil weight and API standard. That's it.
Actually what they both require is an oil that does not cause damage. Past that it is a recommendation, at least here in the US.
 
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Actually what they both require is an oil that does not cause damage. Past that it is a recommendation, at least here in the US.
But, there is no special "Toyota/Lexus oil specification, unlike the Germans, which require oils meeting their manufacturer oil specifications, not just weight and API/ACEA specification.

Where in the VW documentation does it say you can use any ole 0w20 API SM/SN, etc oil on the Budack engine?
 
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But, there is no special "Toyota/Lexus oil specification, unlike the Germans, which require oils meeting their manufacturer oil specifications, not just weight and API/ACEA specification.
Again there is no requirement at least not as far as the new-vehicle warranty. What the warranty requires is an oil that does not cause damage.
 
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Again there is no requirement at least not as far as the new-vehicle warranty. What the warranty requires is an oil that does not cause damage.
Read your owner's manual, or open the hood and look at the oil sticker. It says it requires 508.00 oil on the Tiguan. It doesn't say API SN/SN-Plus/SP 0w20 oil, it's specifically 508.00 oil, which is only in 0w20. The sticker doesn't say VW508.00 or 0w20.
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The last time VW/Audi, had loose requirements on their engine oil requirements, where they allowed API 5w30 oil, it cost VW and Audi a lot of money from the longitudinal 1.8T oil sludge fiasco, since dealerships were using Castrol GTX 5w30 as their bulk oil. This is why VW/Audi sticks to their manufacturer oil standards for oil specifications for vehicles, no more API or ACEA in their wording.
 
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Read your owner's manual, or open the hood and look at the oil sticker. It says it requires 508.00 oil on the Tiguan. It doesn't say API SN/SN-Plus/SP 0w20 oil, it's specifically 508.00 oil, which is only in 0w20. The sticker doesn't say VW508.00 or 0w20.
1322284_x800.webp



The last time VW/Audi, had loose requirements on their engine oil requirements, where they allowed API 5w30 oil, it cost VW and Audi a lot of money from the longitudinal 1.8T oil sludge fiasco. This is why VW/Audi sticks to their manufacturer oil standards for oil specifications for vehicles.
Yes I know. But I also know there is no requirement nor statement in either the owner’s manual nor the warranty book that says I must use the approved oil to ensure warranty coverage. It does say that if the oil I use causes damage then the warranty may not be valid.

I stick to 504 00 oil since I get the sludge and oxidation resistance plus I’m doing VW a favor by reducing wear. I’m helping them out.
 
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Yes I know. But I also know there is no requirement nor statement in either the owner’s manual nor the warranty book that says I must use the approved oil to ensure warranty coverage. It does say that if the oil I use causes damage then the warranty may not be valid.

I stick to 504 00 oil since I get the sludge and oxidation resistance plus I’m doing VW a favor by reducing wear. I’m helping them out.
But you may not be doing the oil pump a favor, so damages related to the oil pump not operating at its intended conditions, you may be helping them out by giving VW an excuse not to warranty a repair.
 
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But you may not be doing the oil pump a favor, so damages related to the oil pump not operating at its intended conditions, you may be helping them out by giving VW an excuse not to warranty a repair.
Complete Internet nonsense that has been discussed and debunked several times on here.
 
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