Coolant for 60s muscle car

By that argument, he should also use SD classification motor oil as well. No, avoid conventional green which won't last 5 years. G05 or Peak 10x is the way to go.
I use conventional green with distilled water in two older engines. I change the coolant every five years, never had a cooling system failure, no deposits in the radiator and the coolant comes out clear green everytime.
 
Conventional green for 20 years, changed every 5 years on all of my old cars.
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I ended up calling Peak’s tech support. Spoke with a friendly gentleman that has classic cars himself. He stated that whatever their green IAT coolant does for protection, their 10x does it better, for longer. He also stated even though it says ten years on the bottle, there is no way he will leave it in for that long. He stayed 5 years max on his personal cars. The 10x is a p-oat coolant he stated.

I haven’t made up my mind, but 10x sounds promising.
 
A distilled water flush then run G05 at 50:50 strength. It's hybrid technology, with both old-school traditional IAT additives plus new generation OAT additives, all working together in a well designed and well tested product.
 
old fashioned green coolant plugs up radiators if left to sit too long, it can also pit aluminum eventually. i don't know anything about lead solder, but I would use a OAT coolant, be it h-oat, p-oat, or something else. i only have experience with 80s and newer cars so ymmv
 
I ended up calling Peak’s tech support.. He also stated even though it says ten years on the bottle, there is no way he will leave it in for that long. He stayed 5 years max on his personal cars.
That is just to funny . Pure Marketing
 
i don't change my coolant on a schedule, something always breaks before 5 years and if it's part of the cooling system the coolant gets changed
 
I am completing a full restoration of a 1969 340 Dart. It has a cast iron block and heads, aluminum intake and brass radiator/heater core. The engine and all cooling components are bone dry and haven’t seen any antifreeze yet.
I want to put something that will protect fairly fast and last awhile. Car will probably only be driven a few thousand miles a year.

I’ve been looking at Zerex conventional green, zerex G-05, BMW antifreeze (have a 328d), or just going with peak 10x.
I also see people mention rotella ELC.

Just looking for something that I don’t have to worry about for the next 5 years and don’t have to worry about the cast iron and brass/copper.
Yes you have a difficult choice, which I faced myself. After a thorough flush of the block, a new radiator, new thermostat and new hoses, etc., I went with Mopar 68048953 5-year HOAT pink antifreeze/coolant for my 1972 Road Runner and 1986 Omni. That was 10+ years ago and everything is fine. Zerex does make a 5 year green. It is called Original Green. Other HOAT types are the Zerex G-48 (less expensive than Mopar) and the Mercedes G-48. There are pros and cons to each type but I picked the pink Mopar, but I bet the others would have been fine too.
 
Yes you have a difficult choice, which I faced myself. After a thorough flush of the block, a new radiator, new thermostat and new hoses, etc., I went with Mopar 68048953 5-year HOAT pink antifreeze/coolant for my 1972 Road Runner and 1986 Omni. That was 10+ years ago and everything is fine. Zerex does make a 5 year green. It is called Original Green. Other HOAT types are the Zerex G-48 (less expensive than Mopar) and the Mercedes G-48. There are pros and cons to each type but I picked the pink Mopar, but I bet the others would have been fine too.
In case you didn’t know, the pink Mopar 68048953 HOAT is identical to Zerex G-05 and MC Premium Gold, other than the pink color.
 
For a car with iron, aluminum, and brass in the cooling system, Toyota Red works great! Avoid the premixed pink meant not meant for this metal mix. My '88 Supra has the same 3 metal mix so it gets nothing but Red. It easily lasts 5 years.
 
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