Classic car coolant

Joined
Mar 19, 2022
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I have a 59 Ford Galaxie which I have spent many hours restoring to a #7 driver.

I have had it on the road for 2 years and had a water pump weep last fall. It is a used aftermarket one. After the engine rebuild I simply used the house brand green coolant mixed with 50% distilled water as I have done in all the vehicles I've ever owned or worked on.

I noticed some white buildup on my 2 year old aluminum radiator. I'd like to use something other than. The IAT green stuff and have a better life cycle for this car which has a lead soldered brass heater core, and all iron engine.

I've been an Amsoil guy for 2 decades, and bought their coolant. Well upon further inspection it is a rebrand of Recochem (Canada) and is essentially Dexcool. Don't know if it even has 2-eha or not.

I emailed Peak and they recommend their 10x, which I have never used. I used the Global yellow stuff at work when I was a mechanic for years.

I am not a chemical engineer but want something better.

Thanks,
Long time reader, finally joined!


Pics for refrence
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Joined
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Fabulous 50s, that is a great looking car.....great job you did restoring. 2 questions, what do you think that car cost new? Also do you know where final assembly took place, i.e. what Ford plant?
 

Fabulous50s

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Joined
Mar 19, 2022
Messages
225
Fabulous 50s, that is a great looking car.....great job you did restoring. 2 questions, what do you think that car cost new? Also do you know where final assembly took place, i.e. what Ford plant?
Thank you. My only prerequisite was a car with fins and a wrap around windsheild. This fit the bill!

It cost something like $2300 as equipped I think.

It was assembled in Chester PA. Ford of Dearborn MI....River Rouge plant did the stamping and rail shipped parts to PA. Chester was closed in 1961 I think? The guy I bought it from was from PA and moved to Maine in 1985.
 
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I have a 59 Ford Galaxie which I have spent many hours restoring to a #7 driver.

I have had it on the road for 2 years and had a water pump weep last fall. It is a used aftermarket one. After the engine rebuild I simply used the house brand green coolant mixed with 50% distilled water as I have done in all the vehicles I've ever owned or worked on.

I noticed some white buildup on my 2 year old aluminum radiator. I'd like to use something other than. The IAT green stuff and have a better life cycle for this car which has a lead soldered brass heater core, and all iron engine.

I've been an Amsoil guy for 2 decades, and bought their coolant. Well upon further inspection it is a rebrand of Recochem (Canada) and is essentially Dexcool. Don't know if it even has 2-eha or not.

I emailed Peak and they recommend their 10x, which I have never used. I used the Global yellow stuff at work when I was a mechanic for years.

I am not a chemical engineer but want something better.

Thanks,
Long time reader, finally joined!


Pics for refrence View attachment 93286 View attachment 93287 View attachment 93288
352 or did you up it to a 390?428?
 
Joined
Apr 27, 2013
Messages
781
Location
MO USA
Thank you. My only prerequisite was a car with fins and a wrap around windsheild. This fit the bill!

It cost something like $2300 as equipped I think.

It was assembled in Chester PA. Ford of Dearborn MI....River Rouge plant did the stamping and rail shipped parts to PA. Chester was closed in 1961 I think? The guy I bought it from was from PA and moved to Maine in 1985.
Thanks. I just looked up the location. Sounds like the original building is going to be repurposed.
 

Fabulous50s

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It was a 332 3.3" stroke 4" bore. I put a 3.5" crank in it making it into a 352. The 390 rotating assembly was out of my price range for what this car is. This is just a cruiser. I replaced the 2 speed auto with a 3+overdrive Ford Toploader. Colum shifted of course!

This was before everything was cleaned up.
20210419_154251.jpg
 
Joined
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I remember a combination Ford/Subaru dealer where I asked at parts whether or not they had Subaru Long-Life. They said they didn't carry it and used the Ford yellow, low-silicate coolant for any coolant service, but recommended it be drained every year or so. Silicate isn't in and of itself that bad, but if it's not changed often it will come out of suspension and will tend to plug up narrow passages in smaller radiators. That's why Japanese automakers typically used phosphates, no silicates, and recommended low-mineral or deionized or distilled water be used to mix.

As for what might be suitable, I don't think it has to be anything terribly expensive. If Prestone still had its traditional yellow coolant, that would probably be ideal. They still sell something close under the "Prime" brand.


Or maybe Full Force conventional green.


Preview


Napa still has a conventional green coolant. Not sure who makes it though.


213967
 
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I’ve used Premium Gold/G-05 in old school green equipped vehicles, including ones with brass heater cores, with no failures. Either that, or old school IAT green (which is low silicate these days), Zerex original green is the best, if you can find it, rated 5 years/150K miles.
 
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This VERY old article suggests that the IAT formula protects copper/brass with high-lead solder better. https://www.motor.com/magazine-summ...-not-easy-being-green-or-yellow-or-orange-or/

I personally am leery of 2-EHA in unknown situations (no expertise about this whatsoever). I use the Zerek low silicate IAT green in my workplace 22 year old Kohler generator powered by an iron block, old school 4 cyl. Ford engine with copper/brass radiator. No problems yet, with 2 year changes.

FYI, the Zerek G05 has a similar amount of silicate as the IAT formula.
 

Fabulous50s

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I've been curious about G05 and now Peak 10x.

It's a funny world, I was a mechanic for 15 years all through the GM DexCool debacle and I replaced so many intake and head Gaskets on GM products if I see red I dump it. While others actually put Dex in things. I just can't get those years of work out of my head.

I have a 2020 FCA Promaster 2500 that I work put of and that red Mopar coolant is already leaking at 34,000 miles.
 
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