Coolant for 60s muscle car

[PNWracer]

I am completing a full restoration of a 1969 340 Dart. It has a cast iron block and heads, aluminum intake and brass radiator/heater core. The engine and all cooling components are bone dry and haven’t seen any antifreeze yet.
I want to put something that will protect fairly fast and last awhile. Car will probably only be driven a few thousand miles a year.

I’ve been looking at Zerex conventional green, zerex G-05, BMW antifreeze (have a 328d), or just going with peak 10x.
I also see people mention rotella ELC.

Just looking for something that I don’t have to worry about for the next 5 years and don’t have to worry about the cast iron and brass/copper.

 

[wag123]

Zerex conventional green

 

[atikovi]

Zerex conventional green

By that argument, he should also use SD classification motor oil as well. No, avoid conventional green which won't last 5 years. G05 or Peak 10x is the way to go.

 

[JohnB5656]

Evans waterless coolant.

 

[slacktide_bitog]

Welcome to BITOG 🎉

Zerex Original Green is the right stuff for your old Dart

Peak's green is ok to use, too.

Maybe the Peak 10x would be a third choice if you can't get the aforementioned green stuff

 

[PNWracer]

Welcome to BITOG 🎉

Zerex Original Green is the right stuff for your old Dart

Peak's green is ok to use, too.

Maybe the Peak 10x would be a third choice if you can't get the aforementioned green stuff

I do have all these coolants available to me. Local Napa has Zerex conventional green.

The peak 10x I can’t find any info on about how it treats brass vs conventional green or even G-05. I like that Zerex posts that info on their site. If it was comparable to green, that would be an easy choice just to use it in most my water cooled vehicles.

 

[PNWracer]

Evans waterless coolant.

I will have to look into Evans a little more.

 

[zrxkawboy]

My first choice would be conventional green, but if you want a longer-life coolant, I vote for G-05.

 

[wag123]

avoid conventional green which won't last 5 years.

Negative.
It will be fine for 5 years, longer with limited use. It is the most compatible to a 1960s vintage vehicle's original design and metallurgy.

 

[Chris142]

Do not use any long life coolant in it. Conventional green and distilled water only.

 

[PNWracer]

Any reason to add an anode to the radiator?

 

[Warstud]

By that argument, he should also use SD classification motor oil as well. No, avoid conventional green which won't last 5 years. G05 or Peak 10x is the way to go.

Zerex Original Green is good for 5 years or 150k miles

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/ZRXZX001?impressionRank=5

 

[atikovi]

Zerex Original Green is good for 5 years or 150k miles

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/ZRXZX001?impressionRank=5

That guaranty is for freezing and boiling.

• 5 YEAR/150,000 MILE GUARANTEE protects against engine failure caused by freeze-ups or boil-overs

Even 20 year old coolant will do that. It's corrosion additives that wear out over time and miles. Nowhere does Zerex mention that. At least the Peak 10X addresses it,

• Contains 10X the scale-fighting inhibitors† to ensure maximum cooling system performance
• Provides more than 2X the warranty coverage for 10+ years/300,000+ miles of service†*

 

[PNWracer]

That guaranty is for freezing and boiling.

• 5 YEAR/150,000 MILE GUARANTEE protects against engine failure caused by freeze-ups or boil-overs

Even 20 year old coolant will do that. It's corrosion additives that wear out over time and miles. Nowhere does Zerex mention that. At least the Peak 10X addresses it,

• Contains 10X the scale-fighting inhibitors† to ensure maximum cooling system performance
• Provides more than 2X the warranty coverage for 10+ years/300,000+ miles of service†*

The question I have with peak 10x, nowhere does it state how it does with copper and brass. I don’t know if they are just stating that fact about only the cooling systems from the last 25 years that are all aluminum without the old style radiators and heater cores. If they would provide that info, it would be a no brained for a lot of people with older cars.

 

[atikovi]

Well, it doesn't say 10+ years/300,000+ miles of service only in aluminum radiators. And why do you think copper and brass wouldn't hold up with modern coolant any less than aluminum which is pretty soft itself? A radiator or heater core is cheap compared to an engine block clogged with scale or corrosion.

 

[Warstud]

That guaranty is for freezing and boiling.

• 5 YEAR/150,000 MILE GUARANTEE protects against engine failure caused by freeze-ups or boil-overs

All Zerex AF gives a 5 year/150k guarantee.

 

[atikovi]

Not against corrosion, rust or scale buildup, unless I missed that part.

 

[Warstud]

At least the Peak 10X addresses it,

• Contains 10X the scale-fighting inhibitors† to ensure maximum cooling system performance
• Provides more than 2X the warranty coverage for 10+ years/300,000+ miles of service†*

Read the instructions. Use only Distilled Water.
I'm more concerned with corrosion

 

[Chris142]

Well, it doesn't say 10+ years/300,000+ miles of service only in aluminum radiators. And why do you think copper and brass wouldn't hold up with modern coolant any less than aluminum which is pretty soft itself? A radiator or heater core is cheap compared to an engine block clogged with scale or corrosion.

The long life coolant destroys the lead solder.

 

[PNWracer]

Well, it doesn't say 10+ years/300,000+ miles of service only in aluminum radiators. And why do you think copper and brass wouldn't hold up with modern coolant any less than aluminum which is pretty soft itself? A radiator or heater core is cheap compared to an engine block clogged with scale or corrosion.

Because I have read certain types of coolant will eat lead and solder. And sometimes, to manufactures cars older than 30 years aren’t even considered in their testing, because they make up such a small percentage of their sales.

I will have to give peak a call and see what they have to say about 10x and brass/solder