This car is hardly driven, probably less than 500 miles a year during the summertime and that's it. Has a reman ATK engine in it that uses roller cams instead of tappets. Currently has Pennzoil conventional 10W-30 in it that's been in there for about a year. Would it be worth it to run synthetic in this car like a 0W-40 or just stick with PYB? I was thinking of using synthetic and a Fram Ultra filter and leaving them on there for a few years at least. Or just stick with conventional and change more often? It's a classic 1969 Mach 1 in pristine condition and only gets used on the nicest days, never sees cold weather, rain or snow.
Conventional or Synthetic in a old Mustang?
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Originally Posted By: AVB
Run what ever makes you feel good. What engine do you have a 351w? I have a 1969 fastback with the deluxe interior, but it isn't a Mach 1. Mine has a 302.
351w yes, 302 is a great engine too. I used to have a 68 Bronco with that engine, ran like a scalded dog and had a 3 on the column, I miss it!
Run what ever makes you feel good. What engine do you have a 351w? I have a 1969 fastback with the deluxe interior, but it isn't a Mach 1. Mine has a 302.
351w yes, 302 is a great engine too. I used to have a 68 Bronco with that engine, ran like a scalded dog and had a 3 on the column, I miss it!
So some engines (SBF's included) exhibit drain off with synthetic. That is the residual oil film gets thinner over time. Never w/o an oil film, but on cold start there is not as much cushion. Most synthetics have lower surface tension than refined dino oil due to their more consistent chemical makeup.
This lower surface tension is one of the contributing factors in their being able to make the 0W-40 spread. But, that means they are less likely to maintain a robust capillary fill. Dino oils like Delo 400 will maintain capillary fill very well.
So that means you'll hear more clicking and clacking on cold start after sitting for a while (weeks >). Has happened on a number of SBF's I have built. It also depends on clearances used to build the engine....
I'd run a quality dino oil and the best filter I could get. Not for the media, but for the anti-drain-back-valve. Good filter and good oil will mean quiet starts and a long lived motor
Wix (Napa Gold), Baldwin, Fram Ultra, etc. Maybe Chevron Delo 400 15W-30 SD (severe duty). It ain't cheap, but the mostly dino base and narrow spread means good residual film on cold start and it's tough enough to go a few years w/o change.
I have run Delo 400 15W-40 LE for up to 5 years in seldom run ranch trucks. No issues at all. As long as the carb is in decent shape and not pouring raw fuel into the motor on cold start (?), it'll be fine. Just make sure it gets up to temp and stays there for a while when you run it. No need for annual changes on you low mileage. If you have concerns, get a UOA at year two and see where you are at. Should be fine. If UOA comes back good, just leave it in there
This lower surface tension is one of the contributing factors in their being able to make the 0W-40 spread. But, that means they are less likely to maintain a robust capillary fill. Dino oils like Delo 400 will maintain capillary fill very well.
So that means you'll hear more clicking and clacking on cold start after sitting for a while (weeks >). Has happened on a number of SBF's I have built. It also depends on clearances used to build the engine....
I'd run a quality dino oil and the best filter I could get. Not for the media, but for the anti-drain-back-valve. Good filter and good oil will mean quiet starts and a long lived motor
Wix (Napa Gold), Baldwin, Fram Ultra, etc. Maybe Chevron Delo 400 15W-30 SD (severe duty). It ain't cheap, but the mostly dino base and narrow spread means good residual film on cold start and it's tough enough to go a few years w/o change.
I have run Delo 400 15W-40 LE for up to 5 years in seldom run ranch trucks. No issues at all. As long as the carb is in decent shape and not pouring raw fuel into the motor on cold start (?), it'll be fine. Just make sure it gets up to temp and stays there for a while when you run it. No need for annual changes on you low mileage. If you have concerns, get a UOA at year two and see where you are at. Should be fine. If UOA comes back good, just leave it in there
How about Delo 15W-30?
Originally Posted By: jongies3
I was thinking of using synthetic and a Fram Ultra filter and leaving them on there for a few years at least. Or just stick with conventional and change more often? It's a classic 1969 Mach 1 in pristine condition and only gets used on the nicest days, never sees cold weather, rain or snow.
If it's a classic in pristine condition why would you use a Fram filter and not an original Motorcraft? For that matter, I never understood why some folks spend 10's of thousands of dollars on a difficult restoration but put in an Interstate battery or use some off brand tires.
I was thinking of using synthetic and a Fram Ultra filter and leaving them on there for a few years at least. Or just stick with conventional and change more often? It's a classic 1969 Mach 1 in pristine condition and only gets used on the nicest days, never sees cold weather, rain or snow.
If it's a classic in pristine condition why would you use a Fram filter and not an original Motorcraft? For that matter, I never understood why some folks spend 10's of thousands of dollars on a difficult restoration but put in an Interstate battery or use some off brand tires.
Because the Fram Ultra is a quality filter where the Motorcraft is a basic Purolator.
Originally Posted By: rooflessVW
Because the Fram Ultra is a quality filter where the Motorcraft is a basic Purolator.
Frequently debated here but he's driving it 500 miles a year. A Jiffy Lube filter would be fine. If he enters any judged shows, originality points would be deducted.
Because the Fram Ultra is a quality filter where the Motorcraft is a basic Purolator.
Frequently debated here but he's driving it 500 miles a year. A Jiffy Lube filter would be fine. If he enters any judged shows, originality points would be deducted.
Originally Posted By: atikovi
Originally Posted By: rooflessVW
Because the Fram Ultra is a quality filter where the Motorcraft is a basic Purolator.
Frequently debated here but he's driving it 500 miles a year. A Jiffy Lube filter would be fine. If he enters any judged shows, originality points would be deducted.
If he enters a judged show, he'll be penalized for not using a NOS filter from '69.
Run the good filter. It'll be fine.
Originally Posted By: rooflessVW
Because the Fram Ultra is a quality filter where the Motorcraft is a basic Purolator.
Frequently debated here but he's driving it 500 miles a year. A Jiffy Lube filter would be fine. If he enters any judged shows, originality points would be deducted.
If he enters a judged show, he'll be penalized for not using a NOS filter from '69.
Run the good filter. It'll be fine.
Originally Posted By: atikovi
Originally Posted By: jongies3
I was thinking of using synthetic and a Fram Ultra filter and leaving them on there for a few years at least. Or just stick with conventional and change more often? It's a classic 1969 Mach 1 in pristine condition and only gets used on the nicest days, never sees cold weather, rain or snow.
If it's a classic in pristine condition why would you use a Fram filter and not an original Motorcraft? For that matter, I never understood why some folks spend 10's of thousands of dollars on a difficult restoration but put in an Interstate battery or use some off brand tires.
Because Motorcrafts tear and Frams don't, no way this car will ever see a Motorcraft filter until they (Purolator) steps up on quality control.
Originally Posted By: jongies3
I was thinking of using synthetic and a Fram Ultra filter and leaving them on there for a few years at least. Or just stick with conventional and change more often? It's a classic 1969 Mach 1 in pristine condition and only gets used on the nicest days, never sees cold weather, rain or snow.
If it's a classic in pristine condition why would you use a Fram filter and not an original Motorcraft? For that matter, I never understood why some folks spend 10's of thousands of dollars on a difficult restoration but put in an Interstate battery or use some off brand tires.
Because Motorcrafts tear and Frams don't, no way this car will ever see a Motorcraft filter until they (Purolator) steps up on quality control.
Originally Posted By: rooflessVW
If he enters a judged show, he'll be penalized for not using a NOS filter from '69.
Not as much with a modern Motorcraft.
If he enters a judged show, he'll be penalized for not using a NOS filter from '69.
Not as much with a modern Motorcraft.
Originally Posted By: atikovi
Originally Posted By: jongies3
I was thinking of using synthetic and a Fram Ultra filter and leaving them on there for a few years at least. Or just stick with conventional and change more often? It's a classic 1969 Mach 1 in pristine condition and only gets used on the nicest days, never sees cold weather, rain or snow.
If it's a classic in pristine condition why would you use a Fram filter and not an original Motorcraft? For that matter, I never understood why some folks spend 10's of thousands of dollars on a difficult restoration but put in an Interstate battery or use some off brand tires.
and the current motorcraft looks nothing like the original from the late 60s
Originally Posted By: jongies3
I was thinking of using synthetic and a Fram Ultra filter and leaving them on there for a few years at least. Or just stick with conventional and change more often? It's a classic 1969 Mach 1 in pristine condition and only gets used on the nicest days, never sees cold weather, rain or snow.
If it's a classic in pristine condition why would you use a Fram filter and not an original Motorcraft? For that matter, I never understood why some folks spend 10's of thousands of dollars on a difficult restoration but put in an Interstate battery or use some off brand tires.
and the current motorcraft looks nothing like the original from the late 60s
Originally Posted By: atikovi
Originally Posted By: rooflessVW
Because the Fram Ultra is a quality filter where the Motorcraft is a basic Purolator.
Frequently debated here but he's driving it 500 miles a year. A Jiffy Lube filter would be fine. If he enters any judged shows, originality points would be deducted.
Would Ford have the judges paid off for not using Motorcraft parts on something like an oil filter or a battery? I bet Ford don't even use the original part number anymore.
Originally Posted By: rooflessVW
Because the Fram Ultra is a quality filter where the Motorcraft is a basic Purolator.
Frequently debated here but he's driving it 500 miles a year. A Jiffy Lube filter would be fine. If he enters any judged shows, originality points would be deducted.
Would Ford have the judges paid off for not using Motorcraft parts on something like an oil filter or a battery? I bet Ford don't even use the original part number anymore.
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