Control arms, OEM vs aftermarket

[Bottom_Feeder]

It's looking like I'll need to replace the front control arms on my 2015 Accord with only 91k miles due to some thumps, wonky handling and weird inner tire wear. This is apparently a known issue with the large compliance bushing on the front that is not replaceable for some reason.

Yes, OEM is always the right answer, but replacements from Honda are $325 each while ones from Moog and Mevotech are only about $80 which is a big difference.

Ball joints are pressed into the knuckle and don't get replaced with the control arms in this application.

What's the concern with aftermarket parts in a case like this? Steel and/or weld quality? Bushing material? Correct geometry?

 

[nthach]

The bushing will be the biggest difference as well as ball joints.

 

[slacktide_bitog]

CTR is a good brand. They are made in South Korea, and they claim to be an OE supplier to 1/3 of new cars, most of them probably being Korean cars.

They sell direct on Amazon; just make sure it says "ships from and sold by CTR Auto Parts" and they will come directly from CTR.
Partsgeek also carries CTR at a fair price. Napa has them too, but they charge much more

Delphi would be my second choice.

 

[The Critic]

OE will last you another 10/100K, aftermarket will need to be replaced again in 30-50K.

 

[dubber09]

I'd also say if you plan on keeping the car for many years, then OEM or closest aftermarket since the bushings are not replaceable. I only replaced control arms bushings once on my previous car that I kept for 17 years, but they were replaceable, I didn't have access to a press so it took some elbow grease to do.

 

[Andyd95]

OE if you want to keep it. Look and see if you can get them from Impex Japan.

 

[SC Maintenance]

Yes, $325 is highway robbery. I just did both upper control arms on my Nissan and OEM was $102.00 / each from online dealer.

Having said that, I would likely steer clear of Moog. I haven't heard anything good on them for a while.

 

[The Critic]

Yes, $325 is highway robbery. I just did both upper control arms on my Nissan and OEM was $102.00 / each from online dealer.

Apples to oranges.

 

[Astro14]

OE will last you another 10/100K, aftermarket will need to be replaced again in 30-50K.

Exactly - People who have tried the Mevotech on Volvos have had them last about 1/10 as long as OEM.

So, if you’re selling the car - I could see not putting money into it - but if you’re going to keep it, the Mevotech will cost you a lot more in the long run as you have to replace them several times where the OE would only need to be done once.

 

[SC Maintenance]

Apples to oranges.

How exactly? Top is Honda OEM list at $428 online $350. Bottom is the Nissan one off my Xterra - OEM list at $150 online dealer for $102. There both stamped parts with a tiny bit of assembly. My Nissan one lasted over 400K. The ball joint blew out its boot finally. The rubber bushings were not great but were intact.

Honda just charges too much. If you want to pay for OEM because its better, OK, but thats a different discussion.

 

[2strokeNorthstar]

I put Meyle control arms on my son's CRV and some Sankei 555 ball joints while I was there. Has been fine for 3 years so far.

 

[SC Maintenance]

Exactly - People who have tried the Mevotech on Volvos have had them last about 1/10 as long as OEM.

So, if you’re selling the car - I could see not putting money into it - but if you’re going to keep it, the Mevotech will cost you a lot more in the long run as you have to replace them several times where the OE would only need to be done once.

I will point out the OEM in this case lasted only 91K.

In general OEM is better, but not always.

 

[2strokeNorthstar]

The bushing will be the biggest difference as well as ball joints.

Ball joints are not part of the assembly

 

[Astro14]

I will point out the OEM in this case lasted only 91K.

In general OEM is better, but not always.

Some cars are like that. Again, owning five Volvos with the same chassis, I have around million miles experience with that particular suspension.

Generally, Volvo OEM bushings last about 80-100,000 miles. I’ve done two complete suspension rebuilds on the V70XC. It has 308,000 miles. The bushings are soft, so that the ride is compliant. The engine mounts are also equally soft, and some of them need replacement at similar mileage.

Mevotech lasts about 10,000 miles.

Can you add up the cost of an alignment that is necessary after replacing bushings, it starts to get pretty expensive to use Mevotech unless you’re dumping the car under a year, and you want to foist your problems onto someone else.

I just had this conversation with an independent garage up in Denver, where I keep one of the cars, they will only use Volvo OEM suspension parts. They’ve had terrible luck with every other aftermarket supplier. Volvo OEM wears out 100,000 miles, but that’s several times longer, and results in happier customers, than the other brands.

 

[The Critic]

How exactly? Top is Honda OEM list at $428 online $350. Bottom is the Nissan one off my Xterra - OEM list at $150 online dealer for $102. There both stamped parts with a tiny bit of assembly. My Nissan one lasted over 400K. The ball joint blew out its boot finally. The rubber bushings were not great but were intact.

Honda just charges too much. If you want to pay for OEM because its better, OK, but thats a different discussion.

View attachment 287400


View attachment 287401

Different style of bushing, possibly liquid-filled.

Also, from my limited experience, upper control arms tend to be significantly cheaper than lower control arms... at least for Honda.

 

[JTK]

OE will last you another 10/100K, aftermarket will need to be replaced again in 30-50K.

I've heard many other techs say this and I realize it happens. I could not imagine having to change any suspension component again in ~30K miles.

 

[SC Maintenance]

Different style of bushing, possibly liquid-filled.

Also, from my limited experience, upper control arms tend to be significantly cheaper than lower control arms... at least for Honda.

My lower control arms are msrp $86. $57 online from a dealer. https://parts.nissanusa.com/parts/n...83otRMFrxzsBoucluSJzAD0JtO74jrDsaAtwBEALw_wcB

The lower control arms for my Toyota - still current production - are $200 MSRP, $150 at online dealer.

Honda is just torqueing everyone. I doubt there liquid filled bushings - doesn't look big enough and there usually replaceable. Even so, its not worth that amount more. One more reason not to own a Honda I guess.

 

[The Critic]

I've heard many other techs say this and I realize it happens. I could not imagine having to change any suspension component again in ~30K miles.

Ironically, I have had better success with Mevotech and "white box generic" control arms lately than anything from Moog.

But OE is still king for longevity.

 

[Bottom_Feeder]

Yes, $325 is highway robbery. I just did both upper control arms on my Nissan and OEM was $102.00 / each from online dealer.

This is really my biggest issue. $325 for an OEM control arm for an application that doesn't include a new ball joint seems really excessive.

 

[Bottom_Feeder]

I will point out the OEM in this case lasted only 91K.

Also what I'm thinking. They really should have lasted longer than this so trying something else may not really be much of a gamble.