Instead of the control arm....

[daves87rs]

..I was given a suggestion that I could do instead of replacing the lower control arms on the wife's car: Just get the ball joints (oem) and get some Polyurethane bushings, and watch it handle like a new car again.

On the car, I have a ball joint just starting to get some play, and the bushings have never been replaced in nearly 100k. The control arm themselves are in pretty good shape. I figured that it would be better to just replace the whole thing, but my buddy in trying to convince me otherwise.

So, should I just update the ball joints/bushings, or replace the whole lower control arm? Kinda open minded about this....

 

[ram_man]

what kind of car?

 

[The_Jeff]

You run the risk of getting undersized/ under engineered components with a complete control arm.

 

[daves87rs]

Originally Posted By: ram_man
what kind of car?


Chevy cavalier (2003), base model.

Doing some update work on this car...

 

[vssjim]

I have had pretty good luck with Mevotec arms from CarQuest, I just looked them up and cost on the non sport suspention are is 108.00 so I would probably go with complete unit way. I like CarQuest/NAPA/Raybestos or Moog parts. I'm not going to a dealer to buy a ball joint the boots are not as good as the replacement parts are.

 

[Zaedock]

Replace the whole thing. Quicker, easier and you don't have to mess with pressing bushings. Worth the $ in time alone, IMO.

 

[Merkava_4]

Do you have the capability to remove the old bushings and press the new ones in?

 

[ram_man]

Originally Posted By: Zaedock
Replace the whole thing. Quicker, easier and you don't have to mess with pressing bushings. Worth the $ in time alone, IMO.


+1

 

[nwjones18]

I just did all 4 ball joints in a dodge ram that has the upper and lower control arms and on my truck it was doable. Just rent the press from the parts store and take your time. Its got 240k on it and I just used the Raybestous service grade joints from rockauto (I think I'm the first person on this site to admit using the cheap joints) they seemed decent to me and install went well. The joints only cost around $12 a piece.

Actually I just checked rockauto and moog control arms with ball joints and bushings for your car are $44 a piece.. I would definitely just buy the entire control arms.

 

[The Critic]

Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Do you have the capability to remove the old bushings and press the new ones in?


I have found that it is quite difficult to press bushings in "straight" without the factory SST.

In many cases, you are better off buying a premium control arm.

 

[The_Eric]

These aren't that hard to get in straight- with a press.

Even with a press, the arms can be a little trick to get set in the press just right. Not bad with some experience and mechanical inclination.

If op doesn't have ready, free access to a press and a good selection of old bushings, bearing races and pressing hardware (to drive the bushings), then just buy new arms.

 

[stephen9666]

I've replaced the control arm bushings only (not the entire arm) on our Hyundai and our Beetle with just a ball joint press. The difficulty varies by application. Pressing in the bushings on the Beetle was easy. It was not so easy on the Hyundai.

In both cases I saved big money by only replacing the bushings. Because I like working on my cars, I don't care if I save some time replacing the entire arm. I'd personally rather save a good bit of cash compared to an OE-quality arm and just replace the bushings. But, the savings can vary by application. And, it's up to you, buy what you want.

Here's how I basically did it on both cars:
http://www.hyundai-forums.com/181-nf-200...hings-pics.html

Side note-
Make sure poly bushings are appropriate for your application. Companies sell a lot of poly bushings or applications they're not really appropriate for, based on how the bushing needs to flex.

 

[yesthatsteve]

Originally Posted By: nwjones18
I just did all 4 ball joints in a dodge ram that has the upper and lower control arms and on my truck it was doable. Just rent the press from the parts store and take your time. Its got 240k on it and I just used the Raybestous service grade joints from rockauto (I think I'm the first person on this site to admit using the cheap joints) they seemed decent to me and install went well. The joints only cost around $12 a piece.

Actually I just checked rockauto and moog control arms with ball joints and bushings for your car are $44 a piece.. I would definitely just buy the entire control arms.


At that price, doing the whole control arm makes too much sense.

 

[daves87rs]

Originally Posted By: yesthatsteve
Originally Posted By: nwjones18
I just did all 4 ball joints in a dodge ram that has the upper and lower control arms and on my truck it was doable. Just rent the press from the parts store and take your time. Its got 240k on it and I just used the Raybestous service grade joints from rockauto (I think I'm the first person on this site to admit using the cheap joints) they seemed decent to me and install went well. The joints only cost around $12 a piece.

Actually I just checked rockauto and moog control arms with ball joints and bushings for your car are $44 a piece.. I would definitely just buy the entire control arms.


At that price, doing the whole control arm makes too much sense.



Seems to be the idea I'm getting.....

 

[Cujet]

Do the new control arms. Poly bushings are often a headache. They can squeek and they do wear quickly. However, poly bushings do tighten up the suspension nicely.

I avoid poly bushings at all costs on the street. Been there, done that. I dislike the harsh ride, even though I'm a hard core driver/racer.

 

[daves87rs]

Originally Posted By: Cujet
Do the new control arms. Poly bushings are often a headache. They can squeek and they do wear quickly. However, poly bushings do tighten up the suspension nicely.

I avoid poly bushings at all costs on the street. Been there, done that. I dislike the harsh ride, even though I'm a hard core driver/racer.


That's very good to know..wife would be mad at the harsh ride..also didn't know they wore faster....

Thanks!

 

[tbm3fan]

Did the entire front suspension on my wife's 98 Sable six months ago and the 91 Mazda 626 4 months ago. Both got new complete control arms as it wasn't worth it to buy the separate parts and put them in. Sort of like driving an extra 10 miles to get gas at .04 cents less. Not worth my time.

 

[bmwjohn]

I do have a question about full control arm replacement. I assume the whole thing comes from China so you get a thin control arm and then economy bushings and weak ball joints? Is this more suitable for a car you are selling at a used car lot? or is there something I am misunderstanding? or incorrectly assuming? Thanks!

 

[artificialist]

Originally Posted By: bmwjohn
I do have a question about full control arm replacement. I assume the whole thing comes from China so you get a thin control arm and then economy bushings and weak ball joints? Is this more suitable for a car you are selling at a used car lot? or is there something I am misunderstanding? or incorrectly assuming? Thanks!

You can get cheap control arms that don't last, or you can buy costlier ones that match the OEM in durability. Raybestos/NAPA Premium is such an option.

I went to rockauto to help a friend with his PT Cruiser. Cheap Dorman: $55. Great Raybestos: $80.

Totally worth it.