Considering Dropping Collision Coverage

Full coverage doesn't bring the car back. If the car is worth $3k and there is $6k in damage. You only get paid out $3k.

Remember, you can just save that money and pay to have your car fixed if needed.
When it is on ave a $13 per month difference for me, it is well worth it. Even if the vehicle is only worth a grand or 2, it is worth it. I know the paid-out amount is only the value of the car as well. Why would you expect to get more than that, I didn't.
And most people will not save that money, it will get spent.
 
When it is on ave a $13 per month difference for me, it is well worth it. Even if the vehicle is only worth a grand or 2, it is worth it. I know the paid-out amount is only the value of the car as well. Why would you expect to get more than that, I didn't.
And most people will not save that money, it will get spent.
You cited avoiding "being back in payments" as a reason you keep full coverage on a 20-30 year old vehicle. I wanted to clarify for everyone that you don't get paid out more than its worth. That full coverage wouldn't prevent this situation.
 
Full coverage doesn't bring the car back. If the car is worth $3k and there is $6k in damage. You only get paid out $3k.

Remember, you can just save that money and pay to have your car fixed if needed.

The cost of insurance in many cases exceeds the value of the car it insures. It is understandable, inevitable and understood that in that circumstance you cancel it.

Because insurance is “mandatory” and has no competition it’s so overpriced you have a large underclass of people who will never be insured and it’s a fully expected outcome.

In this area when insurance became mandatory millions of vehicles had the insurance cancelled overnight and rates doubled.

The number of uninsured tracks insurance prices directly.

I think you guys are right, I’ll keep the full coverage but raise my deductibles.

I already shopped around for insurance. Even went to an independent insurance agency and they couldn’t touch my rates.


Uninsured motorist only covers medical expenses, not property damage. I learned that last October when I was in a hit and run with my Jeep.

Underinsured / Uninsured coverage is handled differently state to state, policy to policy. Under certain circumstances a deer collision with liability may be partially covered as an example of a perk some places offer.

That said for reasons I can’t explain changing the deductible from zero to $10,000 and changing miles, collision/full coverage is all almost the same price, it egregiously and unacceptably overpriced no matter what you choose.
 
Don't drop it unless you got enough $ readily available to just get a new car. There are many uninsured and illegals driving around
 
I think you guys are right, I’ll keep the full coverage but raise my deductibles.

I already shopped around for insurance. Even went to an independent insurance agency and they couldn’t touch my rates.


Uninsured motorist only covers medical expenses, not property damage. I learned that last October when I was in a hit and run with my Jeep.
UM coverage has two parts: bodily injury and property damage.

What does uninsured/underinsured cover?​

Both coverage types may help cover expenses when you’re in an accident, such as:

  • Lost wages
  • Medical expenses
  • Pain and suffering
  • Related damages to your car (if applicable in your state)
I don't know how it is with your insurance but mine covered my vehicle in an accident with an uninsured driver.
 
Keep it with the higher deductible.

Things are really going to get pricey soon anyways.

In many states the insurance payment will cost more than the car payment.

Gotta spread all that cost around to make a profit…..
 
There was a thread last year about dropping full coverage insurance, so this is similar but a little different circumstance.

I’ve paid off my 2018 Genesis G80. It’s a pretty expensive car to insure, yes I’ve shopped all around for insurance and this is as good as it gets. I’m considering dropping collision coverage but I’d have to keep comprehensive coverage, as glass insurance is a must here in Phoenix. I’d max the comprehensive deductible (in Arizona, there’s a $0 deductible for glass claims regardless) and doing all of this would save about $87 a month. I’ll keep the car for about 2 more years so I’d be pocketing around $2k in premium savings by then, which would go towards the purchase of my next car.

Do you guys think it’s worth it?
I have never had collision / theft coverage on any car I've owned for the last 40 years.
I always bought used cars (paying cash) and got the 100,000/300,000 liability vehicle insurance (but without collision / theft coverage).

The downside of buying a new car with a car loan is the bank forces you to get the expensive insurance to protect the money they loaned you, but it adds some significant financial overhead each year to the cost of the car.

Glass coverage may not be a good idea. Getting an entire windshield replaced by SafeLite without insurance
is only about $220 including parts and labor. Fixing small pebble glass damage is only about $40.
So you might not need insurance for this low priced glass concern.

In your case, you have a relatively newer expensive car, so you may need to access how safe of a driver you are and whether you are highly likely never to have an accident. In my experience there are 2 categories of drivers:

Category 1: Drivers who drive like a grandpa, always going the speed limit, and stopping for every stop sign and red light.

Category 2: Drivers who think they have excessive skill, and drive 15 MPH above the speed limit, and never come to a full stop for stop signs, and frequently run through red lights a few seconds after they turned red due to their excessive speed.

If you fall into category 2, I would recommend you keep the collision coverage.
 
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Just an FYI my stunningly perfect 2009 F150 was totaled in May 2024, full coverage. Allstate has yet to pay. And now refuses to return my emails. They did arrange to cart the truck off and Copart accidentally took down my fence and gate while towing it off. I've not been reimbursed for that either.

As you might expect, I am dropping Allstate. And FWIW, what they agreed to pay is at least $4k lower than the value of the truck.

I'm going to have to lawyer up.
 
Just an FYI my stunningly perfect 2009 F150 was totaled in May 2024, full coverage. Allstate has yet to pay. And now refuses to return my emails. They did arrange to cart the truck off and Copart accidentally took down my fence and gate while towing it off. I've not been reimbursed for that either.

As you might expect, I am dropping Allstate. And FWIW, what they agreed to pay is at least $4k lower than the value of the truck.

I'm going to have to lawyer up.
Sue in small claims. Lawyers are expensive, and $4k is your opinion (not saying it is wrong). You’ll net much less when paying a lawyer.
 
Just an FYI my stunningly perfect 2009 F150 was totaled in May 2024, full coverage. Allstate has yet to pay. And now refuses to return my emails. They did arrange to cart the truck off and Copart accidentally took down my fence and gate while towing it off. I've not been reimbursed for that either.

As you might expect, I am dropping Allstate. And FWIW, what they agreed to pay is at least $4k lower than the value of the truck.

I'm going to have to lawyer up.
Thanks for the tip about Allstate. I have Geico, they seemed very responsive and helpful when my son had a small fender bender. Geico's annual premiums seem to be very low as well.
 
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There are two factors to add to your decision making matrix.

(1) How is the current used car market? Post COVID the market was brutal, replacement costs and availability of used vehicles was extremely challenging. Today's used car prices appear much softer than just 24 months ago. Soft used car prices means collision coverage is less valuable.

(2) How defensive if a driver are you? Many truck drivers receive recognition for driving one million miles with zero accidents. These big rig drivers accomplish this in part by being very defensive drivers. Accidents can and do happen, but being a outstanding defensive driver significantly reduces risk to the need for collision coverage.
 
Insurance has turned into total scam. They pocket the premiums, run an inefficient shop, pay themselves huge bonuses, drag their feet paying out claims and end up paying way less than fair market value.

Did you know that Geico pays $300M/yr just for cloud services?

For good drivers, liability only is the best deal long term. Worked for me over decades. No regrets.
 
What happens if an illegal hits you.
or random druggie with no coverage.

I'd keep it.. its a predictable expense vs wiping your car out 20k?
If he does drop the comprehensive he needs to make sure he has uninsured motorist coverage. That will solve any issues you just mentioned. A 2018 might be worth another year's coverage.
 
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Keep it, I insure all my vehicles with full coverage even though they are 20 to 30 yrs old. It is worth it even though they are older, one hit and your back into payments and being upside down.
How much are you paying for full coverage compared with what the payout is on a 25 year old car? You should be putting the equivalent collision premium in an account and self insuring.
 
No..there is a benefit for loyalty. Recently-Insurance Companies have started penalizing for "jumping around" . It may or may not affect a quote you received...but it is "a thing".

Name and shame.
 
No..there is a benefit for loyalty. Recently-Insurance Companies have started penalizing for "jumping around" . It may or may not affect a quote you received...but it is "a thing".
I was a loyal customer of Liberty Mutual for the past 15 years for both home and auto. When the most recent renewal came back in December for the auto portion, the annual premium for our three cars jumped from $6018.00 to $7100.00 which caught my attention.
My homeowners premium, which I just paid a few weeks prior, was $2200.00.
I called L/M to discuss this increase and they gave me a song and a dance and a couple of options to trim maybe $300.00 off the auto premium. I went online and got a quote from NJM insurance. They are highly rated but they are regional and only insure in five states, mine included. NJM's quote for both home and auto came in at $5000.00 LESS than L/M! I was able to get an umbrella policy too so I now have greater coverage and am saving $5000.00 per year. While tremendously thrilled, all I could think about was all the money I threw away by being blindly loyal to Liberty Mutual all those years. Never again....
 
How much are you paying for full coverage compared with what the payout is on a 25 year old car? You should be putting the equivalent collision premium in an account and self insuring.
2 of my vehicles was $34/mn for full coverage, w/o it was $23/mn. These were worth $1~$2k each. My other vehicles were $55~$90/mn and the difference is $15+/- less per month for w/o full coverage. These are worth $5-10k ea. If they fix it or total them, I am covered. There are lots of accidents, mainly rear-enders, on our commute routes and around the local cities, so the extra is worth it. It takes several $10-20/ month payments to hit the value and I don't usually keep some of my vehicles more than 5 years, I don't mind paying for peace of mind.
 
I think you guys are right, I’ll keep the full coverage but raise my deductibles.

That's what I did with my focus once it was paid off because it was my only car. Even with the much lower value of the focus, I kept it full coverage but raised the deductible just in case mainly to protect myself against unexpected events.
 
I was a loyal customer of Liberty Mutual for the past 15 years for both home and auto. When the most recent renewal came back in December for the auto portion, the annual premium for our three cars jumped from $6018.00 to $7100.00 which caught my attention.
My homeowners premium, which I just paid a few weeks prior, was $2200.00.
I called L/M to discuss this increase and they gave me a song and a dance and a couple of options to trim maybe $300.00 off the auto premium. I went online and got a quote from NJM insurance. They are highly rated but they are regional and only insure in five states, mine included. NJM's quote for both home and auto came in at $5000.00 LESS than L/M! I was able to get an umbrella policy too so I now have greater coverage and am saving $5000.00 per year. While tremendously thrilled, all I could think about was all the money I threw away by being blindly loyal to Liberty Mutual all those years. Never again....
You are in for a treat. NJM operates as a mutual insurance company. You can think of them as a nonprofit. I’ve had them since 1985 for car insurance and every year, sometimes twice a year, they send me a dividend check which they categorize in the accompanying letter as a rebate to customers for savings they have accumulated by operating efficiently and only insuring good drivers.

When they started they only insured drivers with perfect driving records, no tickets, no points, no insurance claims with their previous carrier and you had to wait, I believe three years, as a newly licensed driver before they insured you. They made an exception to the new driver rule for kids of parents who had policies with NJM for three years. Back then, they were also quick to not renew you if you showed yourself to be a high risk because of tickets or made lots of claims.

In terms of customer service and claims they are rated A+ by the BBB. They pay out quickly and fairly and don’t nickel and dime you. I had a Jeep Grand Cherokee legally parked on my street in front of my house and someone ran into the back of it and totaled it. They paid out within the week. I was also rear ended in my Audi at a stop sign, yea I fully stop at them and don’t roll through and they paid out to me directly and they dealt with recovering the claim from the other driver who was ticketed and responsible for the damage. You will get a name and direct phone number of a NJM employee based in NJ to deal with if you ever have a claim. I have no experience with medical claims through NJM and I hope I never do.

For years you had to work for a company that was a dues paying member of the NJ manufacturing council - this was a trade group of what it says, manufacturing companies based in NJ, to qualify to apply to NJM. As manufacturing dwindled in NJ they needed to broaden their potential customer base and became a common market insurance company but they initially kept their strict “who we cover” standards.

Their strictly “only good drivers” policy and low rates caught the attention of the jealous public and the they got embroiled in a law suit and the state won, requiring them to loosen up their auto policy holders standards. As I understand it, they complied to this ruling by forming a separate insurance group under the NJM insurance name for drivers with just Okay records. They are still strict. My daughter, who was covered for 10 years under my policy when she lived at home (no tickets, accidents) moved out and bought a 2024 VW Taos and figured getting NJM insurance a no brainer. Nope, as a new car owner she had to get insurance with another company and demonstrate 6 month of good driving and no claims before NJM will accept her insurance application.

I’m still in the original group since since 1976 I’ve had no tickets or accidents on my driving records. I recall getting a letter saying that they closed the group I’m in to new policy holders a few years ago to protect us from receiving a reduced dividend payout because of the addition of higher risk drivers to the insurance pool.

I’ve had them for my home and vacation cabin and umbrella coverage for the last few years, there is no dividend payout for those policies but they do give a great discount if you have auto insurance and homeowners from them.
 
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