Coated rotors for the salt belt

[buck91]

So I'm building a parts list for my 2011 F150's next brake job. No problems right now but I have 40k miles on the aftermarket parts I used last time (might get another 20k to match the OE life, who knows). Anyways, one thing I want to pay special attention to is the brake rotors. This truck has always had a habit of developing pulsation under heavy or highspeed braking. Completely absent in normal driving, but it will go away for a while with new or turned rotors before returning. Last time I bought some upgraded "Frontline" rotors from Advanced auto and they are doing better than the Motorcraft OE rotors but if I hit a panic stop on the highway or come into an exit ramp too hot it is definitely noticeable.

At this point I plan to utilize some coated rotors. I have used the Raybestos coated rotors in the past, and they seemed to do "ok" though I did notice some rust staining after just the first winter (not sure, looked like rust but the coating seemed intact maybe it was just road grime and brake dust build up). The Frontline has done "ok" as well, though they do have significantly more corrosion than the Raybestos did its still worlds better than the old uncoated types. Is there a better option than the Raybestos (Element3) rotors? Are the Powerstop rotors worth it?

 

[Jimzz]

The Centric, Wagner, Raybestos, and bosch are coated rotors I have used.

There are also 2 different Raybestos coated rotors. The silver (zinc) coated ones and the painted black ones. The Element3 rotors are just a basic rotor with the zinc coating.


With that said I have not found a big difference between them in terms of performance. Generally it comes down to the material in the pads and if it builds up on the rotor or not. For rust I do not live in a major salt area so can't say which ones, Silver Zinc or the Black coating, last longer.

 

[Diesel12]

I recently purchased a set of coated rotors and ceramic pads from R1 concepts and im happy with them.
https://www.r1concepts.com/ I bought mine from amazon.

 

[slacktide_bitog]

Wagner's coated rotors are good, and the coating holds up

EBC's plain rotors are also a good choice. I have no personal experience with Powerstop, but other people on here have used them with success.

 

[maverickfhs]

+1 for Wagner, have them on both cars and so far no issues.

 

[maxdustington]

Originally Posted by buck91
So I'm building a parts list for my 2011 F150's next brake job. No problems right now but I have 40k miles on the aftermarket parts I used last time (might get another 20k to match the OE life, who knows). Anyways, one thing I want to pay special attention to is the brake rotors. This truck has always had a habit of developing pulsation under heavy or highspeed braking. Completely absent in normal driving, but it will go away for a while with new or turned rotors before returning. Last time I bought some upgraded "Frontline" rotors from Advanced auto and they are doing better than the Motorcraft OE rotors but if I hit a panic stop on the highway or come into an exit ramp too hot it is definitely noticeable.

At this point I plan to utilize some coated rotors. I have used the Raybestos coated rotors in the past, and they seemed to do "ok" though I did notice some rust staining after just the first winter (not sure, looked like rust but the coating seemed intact maybe it was just road grime and brake dust build up). The Frontline has done "ok" as well, though they do have significantly more corrosion than the Raybestos did its still worlds better than the old uncoated types. Is there a better option than the Raybestos (Element3) rotors? Are the Powerstop rotors worth it?
If you have consistent problems with pulsation you should get a dial indicator and check rotor run out. I'm going to assume your clean your hubs and use a torque wrench on lugs already. If the issue returns even after new/turned rotors and pads I would be looking beyond just replacing them, unless you are totally abusing them. You mention a lot of heavy braking but you seem to get good pad life, so I would wager brake materials are not your issue

If you do a lot of heavy braking you might want to step up to a better quality rotor like an EBC, Brembo or Zimmerman (not sure if they make rotors for American vehicles) and towing or performance pads.

One thing you could try is to get the Flex Hone for brake rotors and use it on your rotors when the pulsation develops to see if it is a pad deposit issue. I've seen people also mention using sandpaper for this.

 

[LeakySeals]

I have Powerstop z17 coated kits on 3 different vehicles in the family. So far so good in the New England slop.

This is what the z17 replaced. A 2 year old Raybestos advanted technology coated hat, coated heat fins rotor. Did not perform well at all. Rotor surface pitted pretty bad. Truck is driven daily.

 

[JLTD]

Good info, thanks guys.

 

[Audios]

Motorcraft sells a heavy duty line with coated rotors and upgraded pads, might be work taking a look at those.

 

[burla]

I like the wagner e coated rotors and oex pads (great value and quality), but what is really nice about the wagner is the jack bolt, not all rotors have them. Makes removing rotors simple no matter how bad the get rusted on there. Cover jack bolt with anti sieze when installing, make sure you have a bolt that goes into threads on hand, pops rotors right off. A note about the pads, I used to think you couldn't get much more stoppage from one pad to another due to anto lock brakes, yeah that is totally wrong. Put them on all my vehicles from here on out. Stop fast, low dust, made to grab with channels that also help take away heat. It is like having 4 smaller pads and that DOES make a difference.

 

[burla]

[video:youtube]https://youtu.be/xSB9j2EhgoQ?t=123[/video]

 

[burla]

I learned about this pad from a dude that was towing his family and trailer up the Ikeman, these allow for real heat disapation. Now, the e coated rotors are solid, you can look into slotted ones, but consider this pad or maybe a simlar one if they are out there.

 

[poikaa]

Just as a note, when replacing rotors be sure to clean any rust build up on the hub surface and the center circle as this can lead to miss-alignment of the rotor and will magnify with heating. A light coating of grease or never seize will prevent corrosion.Also new rotors should be broke in with the first test drive......

Drive 40 to 45 mph then brake to 25 mph, do this several times and keep rolling. Repeat at 55 to 60 mph and keep rolling. This 'sets' the new pads and heat treats the new rotors.

poikaa

 

[LeakySeals]

Originally Posted by burla
I learned about this pad from a dude that was towing his family and trailer up the Ikeman, these allow for real heat disapation. Now, the e coated rotors are solid, you can look into slotted ones, but consider this pad or maybe a simlar one if they are out there.

Wow thats very unique. Multiple cracks to clear brake dust. I bet that helps prevent glaze "warping" the rotors.

 

[4WD]

Had good luck with Callahan coated/slotted … we don't salt roads but did several brackish water crossings and lots of beach sand … sloshing outback … not a spec of rust even inside the ventilation area …

 

[JTK]

From what I've experienced over the years of living in the rust belt, it's not the rotors themselves that are the issue. It's the salt and grit that builds up on and round the calipers / pad retainers and prevents the pads from moving freely that destroys the rotors.

It's a pain, but the best thing you can do for longevity is to remove the pads, clean, lube all associated parts and reinstall. If you want the deluxe package, remove the rotors to apply some anti seize between the rotor and hub so they come off easier for you when you need to. Doing this even just once tends to double the life of my brakes.

 

[Donald]

Originally Posted by maverickfhs
+1 for Wagner, have them on both cars and so far no issues.


+1 - new rotors for my vehicles are Wagner coated.

 

[kart17]

Originally Posted by JTK
It's a pain, but the best thing you can do for longevity is to remove the pads, clean, lube all associated parts and reinstall.


In NYS they use Liquid Calcium on the roads, the State guys claim "You can hear your car RUST as you drive"

So when I take off the Snow Tires I take apart everything, clean and lube.