Choosing my next oil

QS because it won Rat540 testing. PUP because it won Project Farm testing. Also in before someone recommends 0/5W40 Euro...opps...too late!
 
The oil loss is minor, .5 to .75 quarts during 3500-4000 mile OCIs. I check the oil once a week so I monitor it closely and top off as needed. I'm not worried about the leak really, but got into the habit of using high-mileage oils on my previous 3800-III, started at 100,000 miles. which got up to 208,000 miles until being totaled in a wreck.

I had not thought about using a xW-40 oil.

I personally stay away from 0W in old(er) engines. Don't have a lot of experience or data in that department but it has not been favorable ...

If I wanted to go 40, maybe 15W-40 in warmer times or 10W-40 in general. I've had very good luck with 10W-30's in general and especially in older engines. Low vii, low Noack and 10W cold temperature coverage ain't so bad.
 
I switched to mobil 1 in all my vehicles 20years ago, from my 1969 dart race car to my lawn mower. Never any issues
 
off the shelves at Walmart I’ve used Pennzoil PPPP, Royal Purple, Valvoline EP, and in now Mobil 1 EP all 0w20. If I had to rate them by feel and smoothness of engine I’d say Royal Purple followed very closely by M1, Valvoline ep and did not like Pennzoil. I did UOA on RP and Pennzoil, Valvoline is going out soon.
 
Part of the fun is choosing a good oil at a great price point. I like to mentally keep track of how much money I’ve saved per oci while still getting full syn oils and knowing it’s done right. With that background I’d say QS FS HM. Excellent oil that can be had for less than $20 for 5 quarts.
 
Did someone mention 0W40 M-1 Euro, API SP?
Either that or 5W30 Delo 400 synthetic API CK-4/SN Plus.
All HDs are high mileage.
High kilometre in Canada.
 
I swear a third of this forum are hyper cheapskates in the “all oil is the same” camp, a third believe their off the shelf choice is best for dubious reasons, and a third run legitimately superior oil no matter the cost.

So many threads just boil down to shouting between these three camps.


So how would you tell the difference between running Havoline Pro DS versus a expensive oil from Germany?
 
So how would you tell the difference between running Havoline Pro DS versus a expensive oil from Germany?

Ohh I know the answer to this one.
It makes them feel better and all other kinds of placebo effects.

Im all about buying expensive oil sometimes and running slightly longer OCI.
But most of the time I buy cheaper oils with approvals (listed) and change the oil more often for even better "performance" (read clean engine).
 
Let's be honest with ourselves: for the vast majority of vehicles, any modern oil you buy off the shelf
at Wal Mart with the proper viscosity and specifications will take care of our engines just fine
as long as the OCI is reasonable and the oil level is monitored.

Many of us overthink this and spend a lot of time looking for some sort of slight edge to improve
engine durability, when in reality with basic maintenance most engines will outlast the rest of the car.

So why are we here? Why do many of us spend time on this? BECAUSE IT IS FUN!! And in so doing
we learn more about engines and how they work.

Now, with all that in mind, keeping in mind that it really doesn't matter and this is for entertainment
purposes, help me pick the next oil for my car.

The engine: Buick 3800 Series III, in a 2005 Buick LaCrosse, with about 161,000 miles on it.
Right now I'm running Pennzoil Platinum High Mileage 10w30 and an AC Delco PF47E filter.
The next oil change will be due in late October or early November, just in time for winter here in northern Kansas.

I plan on using a 5w30 during the winter months. Help me pick an oil.
The main candidates so far:

Pennzoil Platinum High Mileage 5w30
Pennzoil Platinum Euro L 5w30
Quaker State High Mileage Full Synthetic 5w30
Quaker State All Mileage 5w30

Cost isn't much of an object but I know the 3800 doesn't really need any boutique oils. What else should I consider? My OCI is
usually about 4,000 miles. The engine has some very small leaks and uses about .75 quarts in a 4000 mile OCI.

Quaker state jugs are ugly as sin with mid-90’s graphics. Not a chance I spoil my garage with that shade of green.

Pennzoil on the other hand, crisp yellow, modern design. Class bottle. Top tier.

the choice is clear here.
 
Whichever one is the cheapest
Whatever is on sale.

Yup. You said it yourself, it does not matter for most vehicles what oil is used.
And in your motor, you could use any legitimate API rated oil and be just fine, especially with your interval.

With the current price drop on Supertech oil, I would choose that over any of the choices you have listed.
Nothing really spectacular about your SOPUS choices to make one "better" than another, or almost any other oil out there.
 
off the shelves at Walmart I’ve used Pennzoil PPPP, Royal Purple, Valvoline EP, and in now Mobil 1 EP all 0w20. If I had to rate them by feel and smoothness of engine I’d say Royal Purple followed very closely by M1, Valvoline ep and did not like Pennzoil. I did UOA on RP and Pennzoil, Valvoline is going out soon.
Pennzoil PPPP?
Pennzoil Platinum is PP
Pennzoil Ultra Platinum is PUP
What the heck is PPP?
What in tarnations is PPPP?
 
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