Choices, does it make a difference ?

it’s a good idea to experiment to find the right oil. Probably changing oils , brands, viscosities that all give you to to feel comfortable with car.

You're attempting to use everyday driving mileage to observe a difference between two oils of the same grade but a different winter rating?
Not really, no noticeable difference 0W-30 vs 5W-30, just trying the 5W-30 EP as it's easier to obtain and available in a 5qt/filter bundle from both Advance and AZ for about $40. Advance offers the M1 M110A filter and AZ offers the K&N HP-1008. As these filters have both changed owners and any meaningful specifications are outdated, trying to find any information as to which is preferable. I'm presuming both have been cheapened and I still have the fallback Honda 15400-PLM-A02. Any thoughts on these filters? I know the Honda is essentially a Fram. Mobil1 informs me that they're made by Purolator and have no idea about the newer K&N. I'm sure none of these will damage anything, just want to make an informed choice in this crazy ever-changing market.
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Situation, many discussions on this.
Have 2 2020 Honda CRV'S, both EXL's with 1.5t

Coming here with this as the CRV forum no longer allows discussions on oil, moderators have decided that Honda has " solved " the OD issue, just run 0w20 and follow the MM which usually runs you to either annual or 7-8k intervals, sorry but UOA's show for most that's not in your engines best interest, probably get you through the factory warranty , but we have 17 year 140k Hondacare extended warranties and intend to keep both cars.

One with 33k one with 8k (wife's car, lots of short trips)
Several UOA's have shown that the M1 0w20 EP or AFE are thinned below grade usually at 2,500-3,000 miles and oil has risen on the stick with Hondas MM showing 50-60% oil life remaining at that point. This is a known issue with this engine, discussed to death here and elsewhere. After discussions here and with my Honda dealer's Service manager, Service Advisor and my Honda Certified Master Technician, advice was to, obviously, go to an oil with a higher base viscosity, changed to M1 0W-30 AFE, seems to work well, still thins below grade at 3k but still over what the 0w20 should be at that mileage. Also have gone to 3000/3500 mile OCI's using the Honda 02 current filter. So with the situation somewhat under control, have found the M1 0W-30 AFE somewhat difficult to source locally, so here's the choices I'm considering:

M1 0W-30 AFE base viscosity 11.5 KV@100c (hard to find but can get it)
M1 5W-30 EP base viscosity 10.6 KV@100c (very available locally)
M1 5W-30 base viscosity 10.0 KV@100c (Also very available locally)

All are API rated GF-6 and are now GM Dexos1 Gen3 and the 5W-30's also have the (now apparently obsolete)Honda HTO-06 Certified rating

Temperatures here in Central Pennsylvania seldom go below 10f so I'm not concerned with the 0W or 5W difference.
So the question is: any advantages/disadvantages to switching to the easier to find 5W-30 EP other than availability or should I continue to seek out the M1 0W-30 AFE that seems to work pretty well? Have stopped worrying about the UOA's as they are about $40 and it's just more efficient to just change the oil at 3-4k intervals. BTY, the 0W-30 shows far less rise on the stick at 3k, so assuming the higher viscosity is providing better ring sealing. My personal theory, obviously not testing or based on any data other than basic physics, is the issue with OD in the Honda is largely related to (1) Thin oil (2) pressured intake and (3) low tension piston rings, all compounded by the cool-running nature of that engine. All designed to maximize CAFE numbers. Well, screw CAFE ratings, I want my engine to live longer.
So, stay with the M1 0W-30 AFE or go to the easier to source M1 5W-30 EP? Don't know if the base stock composition or additives are better in one or the other.
Well if you saying screw CAFE . Step up to M1 ESP with a cst of 12.0 I believe
It's not the oil as much as the oil change interval that I would be worried about if OD is your concern. OC every 3-4,000 miles and any oil you want. If you want to save a little money, just empty the filter and replace every other change.
I think this is the smart answer, although not agreeing with "any oil you want" (s/b any brand-name in spec oil you want) or in reusing filters that you can easily get for $2.50 or thereabouts. But if I were to buy one of these cars - which I may - I would solve my problem before day one by planning 4,000 mile OCI's.