Chinese 196cc diesel engine from Amazon?

[Brons2]

i already own a larger version hatz 1d50 d series diesel on a generator and it pull starts just fine at minus 30c, 3 pulls and its running. that's a common misconception by people who dont know.

Interesting. How does this work? Three pulls at -30C? I guess the decompression lever, as per the specification PDF?

https://www.hatzamericas.com/filead...z_data_sheet_D-series_2020-02_en_70252825.pdf

So it starts to kick after 3 pulls with the decompression lever, uh, decompressed? And then you flip the lever for full compression?

I bet this would get a lot of views from gearheads on the YouTubes if you posted a video.

 

[SC Maintenance]

i already own a larger version hatz 1d50 d series diesel on a generator and it pull starts just fine at minus 30c, 3 pulls and its running. that's a common misconception by people who dont know.

Yes, my comment was a joke. I grew up on the edge of the great plains. We had a couple old 4 cylinder Case IH diesels in tractors -mechanical pump, etc. If you could get them to turn over once they were running - assuming your fuel hadn't gelled

 

[anderson]

Interesting. How does this work? Three pulls at -30C? I guess the decompression lever, as per the specification PDF?

https://www.hatzamericas.com/filead...z_data_sheet_D-series_2020-02_en_70252825.pdf

So it starts to kick after 3 pulls with the decompression lever, uh, decompressed? And then you flip the lever for full compression?

I bet this would get a lot of views from gearheads on the YouTubes if you posted a video.

once it starts running and sputtering you flip the compression lever and it carries on as normal. not much to it , same as a vintage chainsaw

 

[SC Maintenance]

Thinking out loud. Since the fuel tank is so small, I wonder if you kept a hermetically sealed gallon of diesel where it was warm, then poured it in right before starting - if that would help at all? Might help get it atomized better or ?

When I was a kid my dad would sometimes bring the car battery into the heated porch the night before we had to go somewhere important.

 

[supton]

Thinking out loud. Since the fuel tank is so small, I wonder if you kept a hermetically sealed gallon of diesel where it was warm, then poured it in right before starting - if that would help at all? Might help get it atomized better or ?

When I was a kid my dad would sometimes bring the car battery into the heated porch the night before we had to go somewhere important.

It's an idea (and have done the battery thing before). One drawback: the fuel system has to stay primed, the injector line can't be drained. Bringing in "warm" diesel may help but until the fuel circulates enough through the system, it won't do much--and with lots of exposure to the elements, I'd think it'd cool down fast.

But it sure wouldn't hurt to try, and maybe I'm wrong, maybe warm-ish diesel going into the tank (fill it to the brim!) will warm everything up enough to make it that much better. Sure won't hurt to try. Just don't pull the cord after draining, not sure how hard these are to purge the injector line (I'm assuming easier than a "real" diesel but all the same, not something I'd want to mess with in the cold).

 

[JTK]

I've been watching videos on these for a year or two and wanted one to tinker with. I think the biggest problems with them are they are much louder (obnoxiously) than a comparable OHV gas engine and they vibrate more. Neither are great things for much of your OPE re-power or retrofit situations.

 

[Shannow]

as a Canadian i am pissed off that we cant order there up here. i desperately want 1 or 2 of them

Not in Oz either...looks like I can buy parts...for a couple grand.

 

[92saturnsl2]

I received mine today and it looks fully functional and intact even though the shipping container left a lot to be desired. Looked as though the PTO shaft was playing peek-a-boo in and out of it many times; I was shocked the sheet metal on the fuel tank made the journey unscathed.

The big catch, and I knew this going in, is that these have a 20mm shaft. The applications I'd be using it for are likely 3/4. If I want to use it as a pressure washer, I'd be buying a new pump (I could probably use a better quality one anyways) but my research so far does not reveal any 20mm models. 3/4 and 1" seem to be the common sizes.

My roto tiller is belt driven so that could be solved by an appropriate pulley swap.

Or somehow mill the shaft down to 3/4, not sure that is even possible. Either way, I'll figure out how to use this thing one way or another.

 

[dumkid]

There's a few videos of people using a flapper disc or piece of sandpaper to turn the output shaft down. They do it with the engine running, so the shaft stays round and it seems to work

I received mine today and it looks fully functional and intact even though the shipping container left a lot to be desired. Looked as though the PTO shaft was playing peek-a-boo in and out of it many times; I was shocked the sheet metal on the fuel tank made the journey unscathed.

The big catch, and I knew this going in, is that these have a 20mm shaft. The applications I'd be using it for are likely 3/4. If I want to use it as a pressure washer, I'd be buying a new pump (I could probably use a better quality one anyways) but my research so far does not reveal any 20mm models. 3/4 and 1" seem to be the common sizes.

My roto tiller is belt driven so that could be solved by an appropriate pulley swap.

Or somehow mill the shaft down to 3/4, not sure that is even possible. Either way, I'll figure out how to use this thing one way or another.

 

[SC Maintenance]

I received mine today and it looks fully functional and intact even though the shipping container left a lot to be desired. Looked as though the PTO shaft was playing peek-a-boo in and out of it many times; I was shocked the sheet metal on the fuel tank made the journey unscathed.

The big catch, and I knew this going in, is that these have a 20mm shaft. The applications I'd be using it for are likely 3/4. If I want to use it as a pressure washer, I'd be buying a new pump (I could probably use a better quality one anyways) but my research so far does not reveal any 20mm models. 3/4 and 1" seem to be the common sizes.

My roto tiller is belt driven so that could be solved by an appropriate pulley swap.

Or somehow mill the shaft down to 3/4, not sure that is even possible. Either way, I'll figure out how to use this thing one way or another.

You could get something like this and try to drill it out to 20mm on the inside? Your keyway might be getting pretty thin at that point however?

 

[Jetronic]

Thinking out loud. Since the fuel tank is so small, I wonder if you kept a hermetically sealed gallon of diesel where it was warm, then poured it in right before starting - if that would help at all? Might help get it atomized better or ?

When I was a kid my dad would sometimes bring the car battery into the heated porch the night before we had to go somewhere important.

There's fuel in the pump, the high pressure line and injector that's likely gelled. Only way to start them is warm up the whole engine above the gel point for a while

 

[92saturnsl2]

Here it is in all its glory. The pressure washer was a no go, it has a 3/4" input.

I pulled the engine off my tiller to test fit the diesel engine in it. The front cover is too wide on the diesel (it's larger than most to accommodate the diesel fuel pump) so the shaft sticks out to far (and too high) for it to align with the pulleys. I can't even bolt it down because the idler pulley (which acts as the clutch via cable) is in the way. No way to make it work.

I'm back to using it as a pressure washer, which was my original intention. I just might try milling it down with the sandpaper trick while running. Strange that a zillion Chinese motors come to the US with the normal 3/4 inch shaft, but this one has an odd metric size that doesn't work with.... anything in the US.

And I was curious about the valvetrain layout-- standard OHV with pushrods. Air filter is a pleated paper cylinder, much like the inside of an oil filter.

 

[supton]

Strange that a zillion Chinese motors come to the US with the normal 3/4 inch shaft, but this one has an odd metric size that doesn't work with.... anything in the US.

I wonder if someone made a goof and overproduced this engine? Maybe added a zero to someone's order. Like this was originally going to go power gensets for the Asian or African market, something like that--but someone goofed and there was pallets of this engine left over.

Would guess, if enough people buy these, and if enough reviews say "hey, this would be even better if it had 3/4" shaft" then maybe you'd see knockoffs of this engine with just that.

 

[SC Maintenance]

I wonder if someone made a goof and overproduced this engine? Maybe added a zero to someone's order. Like this was originally going to go power gensets for the Asian or African market, something like that--but someone goofed and there was pallets of this engine left over.

Would guess, if enough people buy these, and if enough reviews say "hey, this would be even better if it had 3/4" shaft" then maybe you'd see knockoffs of this engine with just that.

I would guess these technically aren't legal to even import. I am not an expert but the EPA has laws for small engines now. My guess is these are coming in under the radar. 20mm is a common shaft size globally. Only USA and a couple other countries use inch units anymore. If the demand got large enough then sure - they could build you some with a 19.05mm (0.750 inches).

Someone must make an adapter to get you to 1 inch. I can find them yet, at least not with the keyway. This one for example goes 3/4 to 1 inch.

 

[dlundblad]

Here it is in all its glory. The pressure washer was a no go, it has a 3/4" input.

I pulled the engine off my tiller to test fit the diesel engine in it. The front cover is too wide on the diesel (it's larger than most to accommodate the diesel fuel pump) so the shaft sticks out to far (and too high) for it to align with the pulleys. I can't even bolt it down because the idler pulley (which acts as the clutch via cable) is in the way. No way to make it work.

I'm back to using it as a pressure washer, which was my original intention. I just might try milling it down with the sandpaper trick while running. Strange that a zillion Chinese motors come to the US with the normal 3/4 inch shaft, but this one has an odd metric size that doesn't work with.... anything in the US.

And I was curious about the valvetrain layout-- standard OHV with pushrods. Air filter is a pleated paper cylinder, much like the inside of an oil filter.

What does the shaft on the diesel engine measure?

Thanks for the feedback. Hopefully you can return it.. some sellers say no return’s unfortunately.

 

[supton]

I would guess these technically aren't legal to even import. I am not an expert but the EPA has laws for small engines now. My guess is these are coming in under the radar

Good point, didn’t think of that. Must get one now, before the cops show up!

 

[92saturnsl2]

I would guess these technically aren't legal to even import. I am not an expert but the EPA has laws for small engines now. My guess is these are coming in under the radar. 20mm is a common shaft size globally. Only USA and a couple other countries use inch units anymore. If the demand got large enough then sure - they could build you some with a 19.05mm (0.750 inches).

You're right, small engines do need to meet EPA regulations and I'm fairly certain these would never pass that test. No emissions label on the unit like you'd normally find. Not sure how they get imported and skate by the regulations, perhaps because they're not sold as complete functioning equipment. Just guessing.

What does the shaft on the diesel engine measure?

The shaft is 20mm. Normal equipment here is 3/4, 7/8 (not common) and 1".

I got it fired up no problem. I did a rudimentary fuel system bleed by cracking the injector line and pulling the starter rope with the compression release engaged several times. Word of warning: don't do the initial start in an enclosed space/garage. Smokes like a freight train on initial start. I didn't intend to start it (was a test pull of sorts), but it fired up on the very first pull filling my shop up with smoke.

The startup sequence goes like this: pull rope until you feel resistance / compression stroke. Engage compression release. Then pull like you MEAN it, you have to overcome that first compression stroke after the release disengages. It starts up easily every time.

It's louder than a gas engine, but very tolerable. Runs smooth at normal RPM (3K or so), but gets very shaky when you lower it down near idle speed. No black smoke after that initial start except when you're ramping up the RPM quickly.

Engine runs very cool compared to a gas engine. After running it 5-10 minutes, I could still touch the crankcase and heat fins comfortably after shutdown. I used Rotella T1 straight 30 weight for the initial oil fill. Will probably change out to Rural King's 10w30 all-fleet oil after a few hours.

Right now I'm in the process of milling the shaft down to 3/4 using sandpaper while it's running. Might take a while but it's getting there.

 

[92saturnsl2]

Project complete and I successfully milled the shaft down to 3/4" using a poor man's lathe. That would be an angle grinder with a 60 grit sanding disc, followed by some hand sanding with finer grit to smooth the finish.

I discovered that aluminum oxide abrasives (sandpaper, grinding wheels, etc.) only work when they are doing the work. In other words, holding it over top of the spinning shaft while moving said abrasive back and forth does next to nothing. I had to get something on the angle grinder and get the abrasive spinning or I would have been there for days.

Had to get new key stock and the cutout on the shaft that accepts the key is now shallower than I'd like, but it should be fine for this application. got it all set up now, about to try it out.

 

[wings&wheels]

I would guess these technically aren't legal to even import. I am not an expert but the EPA has laws for small engines now. My guess is these are coming in under the radar.

was thinking the same thing, and why I decided to get one now!

 

[92saturnsl2]

was thinking the same thing, and why I decided to get one now!

I feel the diesel engine I replaced the gasser with is a better fit. This is a pressure washer application.

Pros:

Pressure at the wand (by way of RPM) is infinitely adjustable. Engine sounds healthy and not strained until you get very near idle. Even at max RPM, it acts like a gas engine. This 3 HP diesel engine does everything the gas engine used to, and I haven't even explored going past the "throttle" stop screw, which probably lets you get above 3000rpm.

Cons:

The stench! On the old gas engine, I could just point the exhaust in the direction opposite of me and never smell it. On this machine you really want to see which way the wind is blowing and park it accordingly. It gets much better as the engine warms up, but it takes a few minutes.