The dealers didn't want the 4-cyl Siennas because the retail customers weren't buying them. The V/6 was only $1000 more and totally worth the difference. I suspect that the majority of the 4-cyls sold in Canada were being sold to the rental car companies, just like in the US.
It is possible that some dealers didn't want to order them, in order to push you up to the more expensive V6. Possibly, they were just as unpopular up there as they were down here.
Checking out older minivans
- Thread starter Number_35
- Start date
Well, I committed over the phone to buy the Grand Caravan. Here's a screen shot off the dealership's website:
The whining noise from under the hood that I thought was the PS pump or the alternator turned out to be the water pump. (They were surprised too.) They're going to replace it, and we'll pick it up when it's ready. I changed one on my friend's 2005 GC around 2012. Not too bad a job as I recall - had to support the engine on piled up wood and a hydraulic jack while loosening up a motor mount to drop the engine a couple of inches for clearance.
I want to buy a tranny filter, and a tranny oil pan with a drain plug. Here are some choices on RA. Recommendations on filter?
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...v6,3048720,transmission-automatic,filter,8600
Stick with the Mopar?
How about the tranny oil pan?
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...6,3048720,transmission-automatic,oil+pan,8546
The ATP looks to have a drain plug. Is ATP a good brand? Other recommendations?
For ATF I'll use a synthetic that meets ATF+4. (Edit: Just checked my stash of Amsoil signature-series multivehicle ATF, purchased for Jr's Kia van. Besides Mitsu/Hyundai/Kia SPF III, it also meets Chrysler ATF+4, so I guess that's an easy one.)
I'll do a few syringe-out-and-refills on the PS reservoir too.
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Coolant - the OM says HOAT. I suspect NAPA will have a house brand specifically formulated for Chrysler vehicles. Other thoughts?
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I plan to stick with Mobil 1, which I've been using for quite a few years now. The OM specifies 5W-20, whereas the filler cap says 5W-30. I guess I'm a "thickie" at heart; I'll go with 5W-30.
Filter? NAPA house brand? Fram? Mopar? Thoughts?
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Thanks all!
I want to buy a tranny filter, and a tranny oil pan with a drain plug. Here are some choices on RA. Recommendations on filter?
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...v6,3048720,transmission-automatic,filter,8600
Stick with the Mopar?
How about the tranny oil pan?
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...6,3048720,transmission-automatic,oil+pan,8546
The ATP looks to have a drain plug. Is ATP a good brand? Other recommendations?
For ATF I'll use a synthetic that meets ATF+4. (Edit: Just checked my stash of Amsoil signature-series multivehicle ATF, purchased for Jr's Kia van. Besides Mitsu/Hyundai/Kia SPF III, it also meets Chrysler ATF+4, so I guess that's an easy one.)
I'll do a few syringe-out-and-refills on the PS reservoir too.
****************
Coolant - the OM says HOAT. I suspect NAPA will have a house brand specifically formulated for Chrysler vehicles. Other thoughts?
****************
I plan to stick with Mobil 1, which I've been using for quite a few years now. The OM specifies 5W-20, whereas the filler cap says 5W-30. I guess I'm a "thickie" at heart; I'll go with 5W-30.
Filter? NAPA house brand? Fram? Mopar? Thoughts?
****************
Thanks all!
I had a 98 Sienna and it had a recall for this exact issue. I always lowered the tire and sprayed the cable with rust proofing. Toyota wanted me to bring it and and I never did because their temp fix was to put the tire inside the van until they came up with a permanent fix. I sold the van first.
On my 2015 I always lower the tire and spray the rim and housing and cable with fluid film.
I would go with a Mopar filter. Not sure about the tranny pan. I bought a dorman for my 2015.
I liked the system our 1st-gen Mazda MPV had - the spare sat in a heavy steel cage. One bar of the cage was longer, and extended upwards, and had a threaded female end.
You popped up a little plastic cover on the bottom sill of the rear hatch, and there was a bolt head, the same diameter as the lug nuts. (19 mm?) Then you loosened that bolt with the lug wrench, and down dropped the cage with the spare in it. Pretty much nothing to go wrong.
I plan to use Rust Check spray liberally and at least annually on the spare-tire assembly - thanks for the tip!
Mopar transmission filter, Ultra-Power or SKP pan, Zerex G-05 or equivalent, and for the oil filter, Napa Gold or Platinum (Wix or Wix XP)
Thanks! I ordered a Mopar Tx filter, Fel-Pro gasket, SKP Tx oil pan, and Wix oil and air filters.
Just thought about spark plugs. I've been an NGK guy with my Asian cars for decades. Does Chrysler still spec Champion from factory? If so, stick with Champion, or go with something else?
I don't know if there's any validity to this, but I've long heard "AC Delco for GM, Autolite for Ford, Champion for Mopar, Bosch for Euro, and NGK or Denso for Asian". Thoughts?
I heard that, too, but it's outdated/not true. Denso and NGK are awesome and will work on any car
Get the Denso Iridium TT plugs and NGK wires. Transverse V6's, especially in minivans, can be difficult to work on, so get something that lasts a long time, so you don't have to do it again.
If you have to pull the intake, you should also replace the valve cover gaskets.
Thanks, I'd suspected that. Should have ordered a set of plugs at the same time - didn't think of it last night.I heard that, too, but it's outdated/not true. Denso and NGK are awesome and will work on any car
Get the Denso Iridium TT plugs and NGK wires. Transverse V6's, especially in minivans, can be difficult to work on, so get something that lasts a long time, so you don't have to do it again.
If you have to pull the intake, you should also replace the valve cover gaskets.
I went through the fun of changing plugs on our '09 Kia Sedona van, with transverse 3.8 l V6, in September 2018. The front three plugs took 20 minutes, the rear three 4 hours. Actually, pulling the IM wasn't that bad a job. Considered doing the valve cover gaskets, but they were dry so I left them alone. Time will tell whether or not I did the right thing.
Of course right after replacing the factory NGKs with NGK Iridiums, I heard about the new NGK Rutheniums, supposedly good for more miles. I e-mailed NGK, and they said the Iridiums were good for 100K km (c. 60K miles), and the Rutheniums were good for 120K km (75K miles). Replaced the Iridium plugs in our '09 Mazda 5 with the Rutheniums, but it's only 20 - 30 minutes for all four anyway.
Although the "new" Grand Caravan has a transverse V6, it's the old pushrod 3.3. Therefore, plug access should be OK. At 199K km (c. 123K miles) I don't think the plugs would be original, but I guess I'll find out.
My life has changed since I wrote the above,,,my wife passed away Nov 1,2020....priorities have changed alot....bought a camper top for our f150 instead,,its just me now....
Sorry for your loss CourierDriver.
I have done plugs, alternator, and water pump on a 2001 Town & Country 3.3L. All of this was pre youtube, all took me way long than the time you specified.
Our 3.3L had zero power, but it was a very very smooth running and reliable engine. Sold it with 120k miles and the tranny was perfect.
Zee09
$200 Site Donor 2023
I"d skip both
Good luck.
Good luck.
I am so very sorry for your loss! I had no idea.
May be more like +$3000
Very sorry to hear this!
It just goes to show that you never know what the future holds.
I'm glad you've stayed connected here. Do you have a good network of family and friends?
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Yeah, the long-lasting plugs have the most benefit where the job is impossible.
How many miles on your Sedona?
Those intervals are short! In the US, iridium is usually good for 100-120k miles, and people on here have pulled factory iridium with almost 200k and they still looked like they had life left in them! Iridium should still last 100k mi (160k km) in Canada, and the ruthenium will likely be lifetime.
Unfortunately, Rock Auto doesn't show ruthenium for your 3.3 Caravan, but if it's not too bad to access the rear plugs, the Denso TT iridium will be fine
Son and family are driving the Sedona now. I would estimate it's at around 153K km now (c. 95K miles). I did the plugs around 123K km (c. 77K miles), so they may outlive the van.Yeah, the long-lasting plugs have the most benefit where the job is impossible.
How many miles on your Sedona?
Those intervals are short! In the US, iridium is usually good for 100-120k miles, and people on here have pulled factory iridium with almost 200k and they still looked like they had life left in them! Iridium should still last 100k mi (160k km) in Canada, and the ruthenium will likely be lifetime.
Unfortunately, Rock Auto doesn't show ruthenium for your 3.3 Caravan, but if it's not too bad to access the rear plugs, the Denso TT iridium will be fine
Thank you for your kind words over my wifes passing,,her name is Susanne, she was an xray tech and teacher...
